Will left over brass braze adversely affect a MIG weld

[Parm]

On thinish metal the Mapp gas torch will be good. I've mused it on 1.5 mm SS plate with the flux coated rods. Better success will be had if you can get some proper powdered flux and some 1 mm rods. That gas torch with the yellow cylinder is much hotter than propane and will get the sheet metal much hotter than you need, just watch out for the dreaded distortion

Oh and don't clamp the job too tightly as braze needs cappilary action to flow

 

[500e]

The thing that comes to mind me with MAP would be speed of heating O\A the heat is quick so less chance of spread distortion as I have never used it this is only a thought.
There do appear to be a few layers in close proximity

 

[brightspark]

frankly map gas on its own will heat a large aeria and take a while to get there. oxy acet is pinpoint and will heat in seconds and easier to control. its a no goer doing car bodywork brazing using just the gas

 

[500e]

Thats my take BS we used Fryalux or Carrs solder paste as -en-t said the problem is corrosion after if the zinc chloride is not removed after tinning, but he can tin all the surfaces & clean up before placing roof I did try another paste a few months ago (Nealetin I think it was called) used it on a 2.4 Jag wing to side light, still has ZnCl2 though

 

[insignificant_entity]

Hi All, I spent the afternoon cutting the support brackets and headlining pole brackets off the old frame as they will need transferring to the car. I'm pretty tired now so am not in the best mind to absorb this info properly now.

On the subject of distortion - Are things likely to get things hotter than they did in removing both skins? I haven't noticed any problem on either sheet and the substructure seems to be a nice and solid base.

On the subject of flux and corrosion - I think your suggesting tinning the contact surfaces using flux, then cleaning all the flux back and then just heating the surfaces together without flux to avoid the corrosion issue.

I don't have access to O/A so I either have to make do with what I have or use a different method.

I will check back when I'm less tired to re-read everything, thanks for the advise.

-Steve-

 

[insignificant_entity]

I have thought about the advise given and think I will give brazing it a try. I have ordered this from eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-x-Sifb...236571?hash=item27d13e299b:g:61IAAOxyzHxRUigu

I can always have a play on some scrap first.

I understand the main danger is going to be from too much heat spread because it's going to take my Mapp torch longer to get the joint up to temperature than O/A would. OK so its not ideal but as far as I can gather it should be possible to do this job with a Mapp torch.

Can any one pass thought on these 2 questions from above please :

On the subject of distortion - Are things likely to get things hotter than they did in removing both skins? I haven't noticed any problem on either sheet and the substructure seems to be a nice and solid base.

On the subject of flux and corrosion - I think your suggesting tinning the contact surfaces using flux, then cleaning all the flux back and then just heating the surfaces together without flux to avoid the corrosion issue.

Cheers, Steve.