The gap is just a shadow, there's maybe no more than 0.05mm of a gap at some parts.Poor fit up. Gaps like that are no good on stainless.
Good point, was just welding this way up for comfort and a steady wrist.Also weld it the other way,
Put the overlap panel on the flat, that way it melts into the underlying panel.
That's exactly the opposite of what you should be doing.Turn down the power and move slowly.
This butt joint on 0.8mm 316 was done with a #12 pyrex cup and foot pedal with 30amps max.
View attachment 347610
That's exactly the opposite of what you should be doing.
The weld I done above was done at 100A and completed in three backstep beads, it's about 450mm long. Took no more than 60 seconds.
The gap is just a shadow, there's maybe no more than 0.05mm of a gap at some parts.
Its not gonna be perfect and I'm not massively fussed, just glad I haven't blown through yet though the sugaring is annoying but shouldn't be a massive issue as just containing oil and goes through a filter if bits fall off.
Poor fit up. Gaps like that are no good on stainless.
Cut an aluminium or even better copper backing bar and use chill blocks.
This is 1.5
View attachment 347488
At no point did I say the advice given is incorrect, I appreciate what's been said as others have years more experience than me. I know I'd need to practice for a lot longer to get good results so I'm happy with what I got and whilst it can be better it does the job for me.This is something I just don’t get. Come on the forum asking for advice, receive good advice, then say you don’t really care about getting a good result and that the advice given is incorrect…
Not just you, I see it on a few different topics.
Sadly don't have a reg suitable for back purge so had to make do with a large cup and about 8l/m.Good Fit up, power and speed.
Brads heat input calcs demonstrate it spot on.
You can’t do any of the above unless you do them all or it simply doesn’t work!
Eg you can’t move quickly unless you apply power and you can’t apply power unless your joint fit up is A1.
The sugaring on the back side of your joints spoils it abit really. It wouldn’t be any effort really to close that up and fill it with argon from a second line. The appearance on the face side would benefit from this also
If you look at arc energy, the amount of energy actually put into the workpiece to make a given weld.
AE = 0.042kj/mm
Yes there is a type there should indeed be another 0 in there.I think there is a typo. in the above. It needs another zero to the right of the decimal point.
The formula you give is linear in both current and travel speed, so if you double the current you need to double the travel speed for the same heat input.
Your current is just over double his and your travel speed is three times his, so by observation, your heat input is roughly 2/3 his.
If you do the maths, using your settings, there is 72% of the heat input of the OP's.
Are there published tables showing baseline heat input for particular materials?