- Thread starter fizzy
- Start date
I did clean it very well.
Didnt use compressed air though.
I will try again but I think a sliver of metal came off where the oiler goes through the thread. It felt pretty rough when I got the thing undone again.
Morrisman
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I remember installing a very expensive stainless back stay rigging fitting on a very expensive yacht, on its way to the Kings Cup race, in Thailand. I got the compression fitting filled with white silicone, to seal salt out, screwed the outer on, started tightening it up....
All was going well most of the way, then that familiar gut wrenching ‘scrawping’ feeling.
It was tight, but not 100% down to the end. And it would not move another mm. I had to make the call, cut it off, order a new fitting, 2 weeks back order, or just let the yacht go and race, and say nothing, and risk losing the mast over the side.
In the end I told my boss, let him decide. The yacht raced, nobody ever knew, other than me and my boss.
daleyd
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On burner combustion chambers we used stainless 1/2 bsp thermocouple fittings - when we had to remove the thermocouple if it had been assembled dry then it was 50/50 (at best) whether it would come out without galling. If it did then it was usually a case of fitting a new one next to it, as it was invariably game over.
From the factory they started assembling them with copper grease, and we used it every time we changed one - I don’t think I ever had one that had been greased gall up, maybe the very occasional one. It really was like night and day.
From the factory they started assembling them with copper grease, and we used it every time we changed one - I don’t think I ever had one that had been greased gall up, maybe the very occasional one. It really was like night and day.
Blue Chips
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To prevent galling, I have used a few different "Never-Seez" products from Bostik, depending on the application.
https://neverseizeproducts.com/
julianthegypsy
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When I worked on industrial centrifuges, which are 100kg lumps of stainless, finely balanced and spinning at up to 8000rpm and generating huge g forces, everything has to be right. The top and bottom of the bowl is held together by a huge ring, which is also compressing a stack of discs inside the bowl and takes a lot of force to properly tighten. Standard procedure was to scrub it with a toothbrush dipped in molybdenum bisulphate paste to protect it, then lube it with a mix of the moly paste and lithium grease.
ronan
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Everyone says Lithium is much better than copper grease for this application. Never tried it myself, as i have so much copper grease here. But i must buy a tube of lithium grease and try it.
julianthegypsy
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Could well be, it was a few years ago now and all I remember is molybdenum and sulphur. Blimey, now I think about it that was 25 years ago. Time is not just flying, it's rocket propelled!
slim_boy_fat
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[Unscathed
] fingers cross that's the problem and easily sorted. 
Except on wheel nuts/studs.
Galling is welding at roomtemperature on a microscopic level fusing metal together. Then it breakes loose but not across the exact same plane. The new higher top rubs harder and the process continues. I have felt it closing 40k autoclaves and I thougth I was gone faint 
