Which epoxy primer?

[badabec]

Hello, are all epoxy primers much the same or are there a couple of standout products?
This is for my DS, and I shall be applying with a brush or roller around all the finicky bits

 

[Country Joe]

I've tried all the epoxys over the years and found the Lechlar to be far the best, trouble is people try cheaper even after recommendations then wonder why they get problems.

Lechlar (29107?) I'd use - just because Langy knows!
Or knew, anyway. Top bloke he was, too.

All the Best,
CJ

 

[vw1]

We all have are own flavour so for me I used epoxy mastic 121 for chassis work.

 

[norsa]

I fell into selemix. Good price and lays down quite nicely

 

[Prawnabie]

I'm just starting to use Lechler 29107, the TDS states it has high filling power but it seems quite thin to me so I am having to use several coats. It does look silky smooth though!

 

[123hotchef]

jotun for me

 

[Prawnabie]

Yes I used Jotun 87 as a base layer to fill up a number of pits in the metal. It was recommended by @Dcal. It was strange spraying compared to thinner epoxies but you can get a really good finish straight out of the gun if you persevere!

 

[123hotchef]

Yes I used Jotun 87 as a base layer to fill up a number of pits in the metal. It was recommended by @Dcal. It was strange spraying compared to thinner epoxies but you can get a really good finish straight out of the gun if you persevere!

ohhhhhhhhh spray it wow I have not tried spraying jotun 87 yet what equipment did u use? I would sooner spray it, as it is hard work brushing it on

 

[Dcal]

I mostly use Jotun for the underside and Sherwin Williams or Selimix for the shiny bits. I've moved over to the Selemix because it cheaper and easier to get over here.
The Jotun is also a great high primer if the shiny bits needs a bit of work, but you can lose detail (edges and swages) if you put too much of any paint on.

For spraying the Jotun -
Gravity gun, 2-5 setup, heat it and / or add up to max 10% thinners 17.
Pressure pot with a 1.8 setup works very well, but it's a lot of work to clean up.
I prefer the gravity for most stuff.

 

[optima21]

Jotun 87 wintergrade for me applied by brush and left as it is.

 

[vw1]

Jotun 87 wintergrade for me applied by brush and left as it is.

Bet that was hard work taking that back to bare metal on that polo ? Any more progress?

Looks fantastic.

 

[optima21]

Bet that was hard work taking that back to bare metal on that polo ? Any more progress?

Looks fantastic.

its not so bad from a distance but there are brush stokes there and you cant see the welding repairs that are hidden under it, that was in 2018, it was running again later that year. just posted it to show that its just epoxy that I use under my cars, no topcoat and no stonechip.

 

[steveo3002]

jotun for underbody work...good price and VERY similar to rust buster 121

lechler if spraying top side bodywork

 

[Olderisbetter]

Yes I used Jotun 87 as a base layer to fill up a number of pits in the metal. It was recommended by @Dcal. It was strange spraying compared to thinner epoxies but you can get a really good finish straight out of the gun if you persevere!

Can I spray this over bare metal to make it waterproof when I leave a car outdoors just asking as normal primers go rusty

 

[ajlelectronics]

Can I spray this over bare metal to make it waterproof when I leave a car outdoors just asking as normal primers go rusty

Yes, but Jotun is best for chassis bits etc. For bodywork, go for an automotive epoxy of which there are many. My personal favourite is Lechler 29107 but I am sure that others are every bit as good nowadays. Mipa, Kapco? Etc.

 

[Bobupndown]

its not so bad from a distance but there are brush stokes there and you cant see the welding repairs that are hidden under it, that was in 2018, it was running again later that year. just posted it to show that its just epoxy that I use under my cars, no topcoat and no stonechip.

Often wondered if it was OK to leave unpainted on the underside of a car. Are you completely bare metalling / de rusting first?

 

[ajlelectronics]

Often wondered if it was OK to leave unpainted on the underside of a car. Are you completely bare metalling / de rusting first?

Yes, epoxy primer is unique in that regard. Once cured it is waterproof and inert. You can push it outside for 12 months, bring it back in for cleaning and flatting, then apply paint directly.

 

[barracuda816]

I have been using Mipa EP100-20 recently. Seems to go on well as long as it's thinned enough. can't yet attest to its longevity but mina is a decent brand and this is "anti corrosion" with Zink phosphate so I think it should be fine. But if you can get it I would still go for jotun jotamastic90a for things that don't need to be cosmetically perfect and Lechler 29107 for things that do.

 

[marlinspike]

I was a bit sceptical as to the properties of 2 pack epoxy primer but even using the cheapest one - HB Body - I'm impressed. It really does keep the moisture out. I've used good quality high zinc primers and they're good too, and more convenient in an aerosol, but eventually after a couple of years outside signs of rusting will start to show, whereas the bits I've done with 2k epoxy are still good. It's just the faff of mixing small amounts that's the pain.

 

[bert]

I use mipa 2 pack epoxy, normally spray it rollered it onto a boat, bit thin so tool
K a lot of coats that way.