I've only had a very quick look at the Megasquirt web site and a lot of the links don't work but would it really be able to run the full dash and EPAS of an RX8 and at the same time run a VAG 20V engine? If so which version would be needed and what extra bits required? I know this is a question for their forum but you sound like you have used one before.
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I've used them on XE blocks and on the ZM Blocks with the MS 1V3 and MS 2V3 respectively. In terms of raw computing power to run the components they are streets ahead of the OEM kit. It's like comparing a PDA to a laptop.
Shame someone has really borked their nginx config.
Eddie is well worth giving a call, he can talk through the full setup
Shame someone has really borked their nginx config.
Eddie is well worth giving a call, he can talk through the full setup
ave you thought about useing a vw solid flywheel, have a look at seat and vw 2.0 16v's engine code ABF. common upgrade on golfs to ditch the dual mass flywheel and use an ABF one.
iirc in inline applications the starter sits alongside the engine you chould probaly use vw pressure plate and flywhel possobly with te masda friction disk inbetween
iirc in inline applications the starter sits alongside the engine you chould probaly use vw pressure plate and flywhel possobly with te masda friction disk inbetween
Someone else mentioned the VAG starter was on the engine side but I didn't take it up as on ours it is on the gearbox. As the Mazda bellhousing is much larger we thought it was a no go.
Mmmmmm
Must take a look at a A4 starter, If we could fit it onto our engine we might be back in business.
Cheers Danny
Mmmmmm
Must take a look at a A4 starter, If we could fit it onto our engine we might be back in business.
Cheers Danny
No NO No big nasty flywheels.
you have a nice light nimbel rear wheel drive car , it needs a responsive fun rippy engine. the vw 1.8T dosent need a big flywheel the dualmass is an over heavy hatefull numbing thing. a singel mass flywheel for 228 mm clutch will come in at about 10 kg it needs to go in lathe and the bulge on the back of it needs to leave, mines down to 6.5KG wish i'd ether take a bit more off or got an ultra light. but 6.5 kg over the std 10 makes the engine feel much more willing.
i've had a littel think about this and i recon you want the flywheel from an audi, somethign like a 2.0 16v ACE that would likely find from a 16v 80 sport from the the mid 90's.
also turbo, sump , downpipe and rather a lot of bit from an inline setup would help you
you have a nice light nimbel rear wheel drive car , it needs a responsive fun rippy engine. the vw 1.8T dosent need a big flywheel the dualmass is an over heavy hatefull numbing thing. a singel mass flywheel for 228 mm clutch will come in at about 10 kg it needs to go in lathe and the bulge on the back of it needs to leave, mines down to 6.5KG wish i'd ether take a bit more off or got an ultra light. but 6.5 kg over the std 10 makes the engine feel much more willing.
i've had a littel think about this and i recon you want the flywheel from an audi, somethign like a 2.0 16v ACE that would likely find from a 16v 80 sport from the the mid 90's.
also turbo, sump , downpipe and rather a lot of bit from an inline setup would help you
We have a guy coming round on Monday to help us take measurements properly for the adapter plate, these will be put into CAD so the adapter plate can be laser cut. We will discuss the flywheel/starter motor options with him.
We think the Mazda flywheel is as big and heavy as it is to help smooth out the rotary engine. For sure the smaller lighter flywheel is what we would like, but this is our first job of this kind so we will go with the simplest and hopefully the cheapest solution.
We think the Mazda flywheel is as big and heavy as it is to help smooth out the rotary engine. For sure the smaller lighter flywheel is what we would like, but this is our first job of this kind so we will go with the simplest and hopefully the cheapest solution.
normspanners
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A lightened flywheel does not improve Hp or torque it only converts it slightly so having a lighten flywheel only really improves rev-ability whilst not in gear, ie for down shifting in a competition vehicle, for a road car a standard weight smf is perfect for the job also the larger the diameter with a light flywheel the better it is as an actual flywheel! and can actually makes the car better to drive.
In fact when the car is driving in gear the car itself becomes the 'flywheel' and stores energy.
read this re the real science of it http://www.w8ji.com/rotating_mass_acceleration.htm
In fact when the car is driving in gear the car itself becomes the 'flywheel' and stores energy.
read this re the real science of it http://www.w8ji.com/rotating_mass_acceleration.htm
didn't say it improved hp or torque. heavy flywheel dose numb the feel of the engine tho. some of the vw standard smf's were 6.5 kg most are the heavyer 10 ish kg variant the lighter one is far better for a sporty car.
i've done a LOT of ******* about with these and other vw engines, flywheels need to be heavy enough on a road car the vw 228 mm clutch flywhel on an 1.8 T 6.5 kg is cheep to do and about right imo. my golfs are basicly toys the syncro (4wd) ran a 6.5 kg flywheel but it quite a bit heavyer when the clutch is on it the GTi runs a diffrent flavor of gearbox and the whole assembly i dought is more than 7kg and smaller diamiter and thats standard. so there is a huge variation in flywheel weights used by the manufactuer. but then again you'd expect t hem to desing a gti to be a bit more fun to drive than an mpv
i've done a LOT of ******* about with these and other vw engines, flywheels need to be heavy enough on a road car the vw 228 mm clutch flywhel on an 1.8 T 6.5 kg is cheep to do and about right imo. my golfs are basicly toys the syncro (4wd) ran a 6.5 kg flywheel but it quite a bit heavyer when the clutch is on it the GTi runs a diffrent flavor of gearbox and the whole assembly i dought is more than 7kg and smaller diamiter and thats standard. so there is a huge variation in flywheel weights used by the manufactuer. but then again you'd expect t hem to desing a gti to be a bit more fun to drive than an mpv
normspanners
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I wasnt getting at you, but some people have the wrong impression regarding lightened flywheels, I was just pointing out the science behind it. Also the fact that engines do need flywheels to operate properly and ally ones are not always what they are cracked up to be.
In actual fact just balancing a standard flywheel and clutch can be much more beneficial than fitting a lighter one coz the vibration caused actually saps power. and these DMF'S are hateful things that can go out of balance by a massive amount in a very short time .
I have just changed my passat from DMF 180,000mls to a SMF and only noted that I have a slight clutch judder at takeoff response is the same and she still does 130mph but I have a better quicker down shift. Also a little rattle at idle from the box.
i don't like ally flywheels ether, and i'll agree that you can go to far, one of the 16v's i built, the cranck was knifed and balanced and the flywheel represented a starter ring with a littel multiplate clutch, very eager motor but silly idel speed and undrivable in traffic.
i swaped that flywheel and clutch for an aftermarket ally flywheel and uprated clutch. to make things a bit more tractable would still be to light for a road car bt you chould drive it on the road just unpleasant in traffic, then the flywheel broke cracked right round where it bolts to the cranck gearbox mainshaft retained it untill it had smashed the bellhouseing off the engine thankfully it had lost most of it's spin by then but it still made a mess.
for some things you just can't beat a lump of steel
i swaped that flywheel and clutch for an aftermarket ally flywheel and uprated clutch. to make things a bit more tractable would still be to light for a road car bt you chould drive it on the road just unpleasant in traffic, then the flywheel broke cracked right round where it bolts to the cranck gearbox mainshaft retained it untill it had smashed the bellhouseing off the engine thankfully it had lost most of it's spin by then but it still made a mess.
for some things you just can't beat a lump of steel
PhillipM
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Lets face it, the only thing you need a flywheel for is to give you a store of energy to draw from to smooth out idle vibration, and also for when you're using the clutch at low throttle openings to stop you haveing to dance aobut on the throttle to match demand.
The flywheel we used with the RX-8 motor was a 200mm VW chromoly unit, it weighed about 7kg and there were no issues with driving it at low speed or fettling the clutch to creep it onto the trailer - but, as it had a 4 puck race clutch too, it would have been tiring in traffic.
Saying that, we also stuck a tiny 4.5" 3kg clutch and race plates on a BMW V10 and that had no issues just running along in traffic, but then 5 litres doesn't need much help to get things moving.
And a flywheel does result in increased power and torque at the wheels, albiet directly propertional to the rate of engine acceleration.
A large diameter lightweight flywheel is probably the worst of both worlds, you get neither the improved acceleration or response, and instead you get a lot of force on much less material area - so it's far more likely to shatter than just leaving a heavy, small (basically, goes as small as your clutch needs demand) flywheel in there to start with
The flywheel we used with the RX-8 motor was a 200mm VW chromoly unit, it weighed about 7kg and there were no issues with driving it at low speed or fettling the clutch to creep it onto the trailer - but, as it had a 4 puck race clutch too, it would have been tiring in traffic.
Saying that, we also stuck a tiny 4.5" 3kg clutch and race plates on a BMW V10 and that had no issues just running along in traffic, but then 5 litres doesn't need much help to get things moving.
And a flywheel does result in increased power and torque at the wheels, albiet directly propertional to the rate of engine acceleration.
A large diameter lightweight flywheel is probably the worst of both worlds, you get neither the improved acceleration or response, and instead you get a lot of force on much less material area - so it's far more likely to shatter than just leaving a heavy, small (basically, goes as small as your clutch needs demand) flywheel in there to start with
Rig Pig
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Is that a diesel Passat Norm? I am eyeing up SMF to drop in my old PD130 but all I hear are scare story's about broken cranks but not any real solid proof, just pub gossip.
if your unsure ask a taxi mecanic
i know the vw petrol engines are ok with a SMF. not sure about the vw diesels over a lot of miles. do know that the the 30mph in 6th bregade that kill DMF's in short order are usally the ones with snaped crancks, just because they can make enough torque to pull 6th at 30 mph dosent mean it dose them any good, seems to do more harm than bouncing them off the limuter
i know the vw petrol engines are ok with a SMF. not sure about the vw diesels over a lot of miles. do know that the the 30mph in 6th bregade that kill DMF's in short order are usally the ones with snaped crancks, just because they can make enough torque to pull 6th at 30 mph dosent mean it dose them any good, seems to do more harm than bouncing them off the limuter
Been looking into this more and i think the easiest solution is to get a flywheel made. We would need to buy a solid flywheel and pressure plate anyway as the standard Audi one won't match the Mazda friction plate. These are over £350 and we would still need to figure out a way to mount the starter and have a spacer made for the flywheel. The starter would then be in an awkward place as the turbo will probably end up there and we don't even know for sure if the friction plate will need adapted.
With a custom made flywheel we can use the Mazda pressure plate, friction plate and standard starter mounts so will probably cost similar money in the end.
With a custom made flywheel we can use the Mazda pressure plate, friction plate and standard starter mounts so will probably cost similar money in the end.
simplysimon
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I would think your first job would be to make the adapter plate that will allow you to mount the gearbox to the engine so the first motion shaft fits into the crank bearing, of course it may not fit, in this case you will either have to strip the gearbox and turn down the bearing journal or remove the crank and open up the end. once you have this in place all your other measurements can be worked out.
PhillipM
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You don't need them to match the Mazda friction plate?
Just use the VW friction plate with the mazda centre spline fitted in it...for example, s2000 engine, s2000 flywheel + friction disc with renault centre spline rivetted in:
= S2k engine on Renault box:
Prior to that we were using a different engine with a little 200mm VW flywheel, pressure plate and friction disc, again, with a Renault centre in it:
If the starter is on the engine, easy job, if it's on the bellhousing make it bolt to the adapter plate you'll be using.
Just use the VW friction plate with the mazda centre spline fitted in it...for example, s2000 engine, s2000 flywheel + friction disc with renault centre spline rivetted in:
= S2k engine on Renault box:
Prior to that we were using a different engine with a little 200mm VW flywheel, pressure plate and friction disc, again, with a Renault centre in it:
If the starter is on the engine, easy job, if it's on the bellhousing make it bolt to the adapter plate you'll be using.
normspanners
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yes it is a diesel sorry for the late response.i think the problem with broken cranks are poorly made out of balance flywheels causing vibration.
