Whats the best way?

[Mad Professor]

Good day all.

I am looking for help and advice with regards to the best way to make a repair to a Fuel Pressure Regulator.

The FPR is from an old 1988 Mercedes 230TE.

The rubber vac line that connects to the top of the FPR has degraded and broken off.

I would like to weld or braze a new metal pipe to the top of the FPR.

So I would end up with this.

Can anyone please advice me if this is going to be possible, and if so how I would go about doing it.

Thanks for your time.

Best Regards.

 

[BChild]

The diaphram inside is going to easily be damaged by heat - very thin rubber

I'd buy a new one

 

[Mad Professor]

I would buy a new one if it was not for the case that a new one is going to cost around £350.00

That is why I am looking to see if this one can be repaired.

 

[BChild]

I would buy a new one if it was not for the case that a new one is going to cost around £350.00

That is why I am looking to see if this one can be repaired.

Whats the pressures

With vac and Without vac

I wouldn't mind betting you can find an equivilent item aftermarket - hell you can get a universal adjustable one for £70

 

[Mad Professor]

The working pressure without vac is 5bar.

The 1st thing I did was look at buying a FSE AFPR.

But my FPR has 3 fuel pipes connected to it plus the vac pipe.

 

[Chipper]

Worth getting a second hand one? Or how about JB Weld a stub in. The usual clean thoroughly and scuff up, should bite well.

 

[BChild]

The working pressure without vac is 5bar.

The 1st thing I did was look at buying a FSE AFPR.

But my FPR has 3 fuel pipes connected to it plus the vac pipe.

I assume that it's

1. Feed in (High pressure)
2. Return (to tank)
3. Feed to rail (Variable pressure with Vac)

4. Vac

 

[Richm]

Maybe try filling it with water ( not ideal..) and tack around it a bit at a time to keep heat down?? Or maybe bodge it with glue/chemical metal or fibreglass

 

[BChild]

Worth getting a second hand one? Or how about JB Weld a stub in. The usual clean thoroughly and scuff up, should bite well.

Or araldite might even provide a good result - as long at the vac stub isn't under any tension/pressure

 

[W4yne]

Have you tried any of the scrap dealers? 1st choice is a website that searches for parts from scrap dealers nationwide, this is one I regularly use for spares.

 

[brightspark]

clean it up and soft solder a copper pipe on

 

[bill_gj]

JB or Araldite should be fine for the vacuum pipe connection as long as its airtight. Maximum vacuum is usually about 26" of Mercury or about -12psi. All the 5 bar of fuel pressure is the other side of the rubber diaphragm.

 

[piman]

Hello M.P.,

I think Rich's idea of part filling with water is the way, but rather than weld just soft solder the new spigot. The flange is quite broad so is ideal for soldering and it shouldn't get too hot.
Personally I don't have faith in chemical adhesives to give a permanent bond, unless it were re-enforced with small blind pop rivets.

Alec

 

[Rudi McAnichal]

Could you find or make a piece of pipe to slide over the FPR body, and braze onto it a cap and the vacuum stub pipe? You would then have a large surface area for a really strong adhesive joint.

 

[BIG JAY VTR]

try dronsfields heres there website, http://www.dronsfields.com/ they specialize in merc parts and im sure they do mail order

 

[Dereklee]

if i were you, i think i'll buy a new one without hesitation.