What to look for in an ml7

[Fred Trevvett]

Going to view a cheap ml7 later today. What are the main things to look out for, e.g. areas it will wear the most, common bodged repairs etc. Any accurate ways of measuring wear in the ways? Etc etc. You tell me what the main problems are

 

[gaz1]

play in the head
play in the ways

i got told this when looking to buy one

considering a lathe but so unsure

im wanting a pillar drill for drilling bars and other stuff that im building however sometimes ive often thought is it worth getting a lathe instead as in my eyes i can do both jobs with it drilling holes and turning stuff in the lathe ive had minimal practice at school with one about 30+...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

but i did end up with better

Think I need a lathe

Well, I say need... ;) There must be about 4 things that I can think to make so I reckon that using man logic, I can justify the expense. :) The problem is that I know somewhere between little and nothing about them so need a bit of noddy advice - this one is good, that one is a munter...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

 

[Pete.]

The worst wear will be 4-5 inches in front of the chuck on the front flat way more than the rear. You can see the wear emerging if you watch from just after 1 minute.

 

[Turbo]

Make sure all the myford accessories are included like the reverse stepped jaws, 4 jaw chuck, both steadies all the change gears. If they're not there you will spend a fortune buying them as they fetch high prices on ebay.

Another useful item is the vertical slide, used for light milling & a 4-way toolpost.

 

[Fred Trevvett]

Thanks for the replies, didn't go to see it in the end but will be going this week hopefully
I think it's a bit knackered but it is cheap so may be worth it considering I won't need it to do any super accurate work etc

 

[brightspark]

mainly wear on the bed just in front of the chuck run the saddle up and down and make sure theres no tight spots in case they have tightened the gib strips up to loose some wear. check the backgears for missing teeth. give the headstock spindle a good pull to make sure the bearings are not worn . what sort of price is it

 

[bigdrew1]

Jumping on an old thread here.
There is a well priced ml7 near to me that I am tempted by. It's pictured without the tail stock but said it's included. Any reason this would have been removed?.

Any tips to make sure it's not going to be more trouble than it's worth before I buy it!.

Here is the description and picture:

240v Myford ML7 metal turning lathe in gwo. This has been in our family for around 60 years. Comes with spare chucks inc 4 jaw, large box of tooling, tail stock, extra reduction gears for slow speed turning, screw feeder etc, the lathe will need on / off switch repair, as it fell apart when I stripped the stand for sandblasting & painting a few years ago, otherwise with a quick clean up, it’s ready to use.

 

[gaz1]

only whats been said already but prices are still around the same area 300-700 just for the basic myford 100-200 for the stand

 

[dave h 2]

The tail stock was removed to paint the stand.
Positives - you can still buy parts.
Negatives - more than 1/4 of a turn of slack on the handles before anything moves. (this would not be in GWO)
If you can't run it allow for a new motor

 

[jo1010]

It does look well used so you may find wear on the ways - use an engineering straight edge lengthways along the 6 inches near the chuck....myford recommend a regrind if wear is > 5 thou (use feeler guages) - also the ways can wear horizontally and vertically which can also be checked....have a look here
https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/topic/evaluating-correcting-wear-in-an-ml7/
Lots of other stuff to check as well as already mentioned.....if the main switch is u/s the reverse function won't be available on a replacement simple switch .....also check the condition of the lead screw if you're going the cut threads.....a vertical slide is nice to have for the odd bit of milling....

 

[bigdrew1]

Thanks for the replys. And that's a great link on model engineer .I'll have a read through. It's 400 quid.. I don't really have the space (or time) but I am very tempted!

 

[jo1010]

Thanks for the replys. And that's a great link on model engineer .I'll have a read through. It's 400 quid.. I don't really have the space (or time) but I am very tempted!

Hmm 400 may give room to negotiate - and very dependent on the other bits with it as well. If there's anyone you can take with you who knows lathes it will be safer. But as it's not running atm I reckon 400 seems too rich

 

[Porkypine]

I had an old Boxford ( a British version of the South Bend I believe) after having a couple of crappy old worn out Myfords, the Boxford was a much superior machine imho and they seemed to be obtainable cheaper than Myfords too, tho not sure if this is still the case nowadays.

 

[brightspark]

try using a decent myford in good condition instead of crappy old ones mines 45 years old and well used in mint condition also have a harison in decent nick both .serve a purpose