What rod to use on 100x100x10 box section

[Country Joe]

Originally Posted by madkayaker:-
"its a type of plough! welcome to the forum 3.2mm rods will do the job nicely but don't try to fill the weld in one pass and clean the skin (can't thing of proper name!) before the next pass"

Skin = Millscale...

I think he meant slag - cleaning it off between each run.
CJ

 

[madkayaker]

slag that's the word! but millscale will also need cleaning off

 

[-C-P-]

I have made a start,
Drilling the holes in the sides took much longer than I thought 2 days of drilling for all 8 bits of plate.

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab202/hixz/Subsoiler project/DSC03854.jpg
Only picture I took, no close-ups of my welds

The other side wing should only take a couple of days.
I used the P51's (7018) in the end.

 

[scarecrow]

keep us posted do the welds improve after the carling

 

[decepticon]

keep us posted do the welds improve after the carling

ha ha quality, i remember when i first started welding and bought my inverter home one christmas and went into garage with some rods and a supply of heineken, the first bottle really helped me to relax and welding definately improved.
not easy convincing a site manager that a can of stella in the morning helps improve my welding

 

[-C-P-]

And now there are 2 wings
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab202/hixz/Subsoiler project/DSC03859.jpg

2 cans of of carling don't effect my welding at all, am a heavy drinker

I have another question, as I said before in a post I am using an oxford 2 phase arc welder, since I have been using it I have never been able 2 hold the earth lead or the rod (ofc I mean one at a time, not both together) without feeling a mild electric current (while the machine is pugged in and on or off), anyway today I got a nasty one off it, so I sent the earth to an RSJ in the barn then back to the work piece from it and all was fine, no shock.
After the shock I got today I have come to the assumption that it isn't normal.

Any advice, or theories on this.

I'm wondering is the welder ok to use or do I need it looked at.

 

[madkayaker]

It's normal to feel a bit of current however when it's switched off there shouldn't be any voltage. Might be worth using a multimeter and checking the voltage I would expect it to be somewhere I the region on 80/100 volts.

 

[-C-P-]

I did stick a muiltmeter between the earth and myself with the meter set at 20 V (while the machine was off, got the same reading while it was on) the reading was a constant fluxuation between 0.4 and 9.0 (I think thats right from memory)

I am still progessing slowly having lost the will to live a couple of times, had to drill 70mm holes in 12 pieces of 20mm plate, 8 holes in 100x50x6mm, and 8 in the 100x100x10 (took 3 long full days of only drilling, pretty sure I feel asleep at one point and woke up when I hit my head on the piller drill), having got over that when I put everything together to check for mistakes I found I had made one, during the folding process 2 bits of metal would hit, have already found a solution to the problems, but was a little disheartening. And will take more time.

Can start to see what Snowcat said about buying one, but is still cheaper to build it.
Maybe next time I'll chose a smaller project.

Progress since last time -
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab202/hixz/Subsoiler project/DSC03862.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab202/hixz/Subsoiler project/DSC03865.jpg

 

[decepticon]

looks like a good bit of fabrication work there, welds look pretty decent from what i can see of them, though it looks like you have'nt done the vertical up welds yet
you could do with a mag drill for the drilling work, it sticks to the work piece and the drill bits are like core bits so cut very quickly, quite pricy though.
well done for coming on here asking for advise then keeping us up to date with some pictures

 

[-C-P-]

If I am honest I don't do verticals, I turn the work piece over
Am 21 and have only started welding about 15 months ago, maybe when I get better at welding I will do verticals, but for now I will carry on cheating, the reason those welds are not done yet is because I have 4 more bits of steel to add, and plan on doing all the welds in 1 go so I don't have to filp it over so many times.

 

[Tommy]

Usually you'd only get a shock if your hand was wet or the rod was damp! Thats what i find anyway!

 

[Lawnmowerboy]

I can do christmas tree up and im only 15, no excuse!!!!

 

[-C-P-]

I think I might have been unclear the shock can come from just touching the earth (even when its off) on its own.
However I now simply always send the earth from the welder to an RSJ of the barn, and back from the RSJ to the work piece so its not really a problem.
As im using 7018's they always come out of the bottom oven in the rayburn before I use them

I don't wish to get in an argument, but I belive I have been misquoted.
I didn't state that I could not do a vertical only that I chose not to.
In my opinion as I am not a good welder it is only logical on a weld which would be load bearing to flip the machine over and "cheat".
I know by avoiding doing verticals I will not get anybetter but there is still plenty of time for me to learn (the only reason I stated my age).
Anyway I feel this is getting a little off topic, maybe this post belongs in Projects now (not sure if its posible for someone to move it maybe).

 

[oilcooled :)]

ya i get that shock you are referring to on the dc machine dunno why, dont get it often tho keeps ya alert , verticals and overheads are my favourite welds as i like a challenge, and its good practice, but flat welds and lap welds are easier and quicker, although if your putting up a shed you cant flip it and lay down a flat bead if you get me

 

[snowcat]

C P do you want this thread moved? personally I'm quite happy for it to stay here its your call IL move it if you want.....

I normally manipulate stuff around when I can, as its a lot quicker to weld at 1G or F, however be aware that box will twist if your putting the heat into it in one position, Id certainly put some large tacks around the section, even if you grind them back.

Also CP would it be possible to put your photos on the main site, rather than photobucket (we are not fans), the reasons are here.

 

[-C-P-]

I Just thought it was less to do with arc welding and had become more about the project now, if it isn't a problem where it is I'm happy.

I do ofcourse tack it on the opposite side that I will be welding most of the time, but sometimes its best to use G-clamps and angle and weld it and watch it move to the place where it should have been to begin with.
Its all ended up within 0.5mm of where it should have been so far, and the parts that needed to be precise are, clearly by luck.

I will give doing direct photo uploads ago, will look at how to do it when I have had less to drink.

 

[julieanncharters]

Got given an old oil oxford arc welder years ago and used to get a decent tingle off it.
had lid off and found the mineral oil had water contamination which prob didn't help
turns out it had been left outside and tarp had blown off in rain storm.
did a drain down clean and refill and things were a bit less lively

 

[-C-P-]

In the last two months I havn't done alot but have still progressed. (hopefully a picture with this).
My main reason for the lack of progress is that the oxford about 2 weeks ago became an ex-welder, and I am pretty sure its not just resting.
Havn't looked into what could replace it, have asked afew people to keep an eye out for a good second hand one preferably a 300 amp. but no luck yet.
As it happens I know nothing about welders, so all I know is I would like a working version of what I had (an RT250) or more powerful as I was using the 250 setting. All i've heard about more modern welders have been from salesmen, and I havn't been listening as I had only asked about how to fix the Oxford.
renting an arc welder is sort of out of the question as i have only found a 180 amp for hire.
So what I'm back to ask is what is an affordable replacement for the oxford.
Ofcourse preferably better or at the same level as the oxford.

 

[oilcooled :)]

what in the name of god where you doin that needed 250 amps :O cutting steel with it ? every job is in the 80-160 amp bracket 2.5 - 4.0 mm welding rods ?

 

[dannyp]

makes sense manipulateing the work, i allways weld flat if possible its generaly faster to move the work than tit about going v up or overhead.

looking good so far, i would be temped to put some diagonal braces in the frame, would add much strength and make it more ridged. looks atm like it might flex a bit and that invites cracks