What primer and paint?

[oapt25]

Hi, appologies for this begging thread being my first but ive only just found this forum after a lot of looking!

Im currently restoring a type 25 VW camper for my dad, have a little experience with bodywork but I really want to make a good job of this but am having a few problems getting my head round exactly what i need.

So heres a few questions, if anyone could answer any of them that would be cracking!

Ive rubbed the very dodgy dulux brilliant white respray off the van, it has gone down to bare metal in places as well as me grinding back areas of rust.

1) Do i need to zinc primer just the bare metal places? or the whole van? or can u put filler directly on the bare metal (which is what i have always done in the past) Can filler primer be applied directly to the panel if it has patches of bare metal showing?

2) Can filler be applied on to a layer of primer put on to check progress?

3) can fine stopper filler be applied onto primer or does it have to be onto normal filler?

I have been using spray can filler primer but started to regret this and am going to change to a proper high build primer (rolled on then sanded back)

4) If i am using cellulose paint (i dont have any breathing equipment suitable for 2k) what high build primer do i use? can i use 2k high build?

5) will i have to remove all of the rattle can filler primer i have put on before i use a new type?


Thats all i can think of at the moment, apologies for the long post but i have done loads of searching and keep getting different or half answers!


Thanks

 

[malcolm]

Ideally you'd use a primer than bonds well to metal when spraying bare metal. These tend to be zinc phosphate types. Self etch or most of the metal primers are OK. High build primer won't stick so well and will be easy to knock off.

Filler is designed to go onto bare metal. If you put it on top of primer you risk rings around the filler - subsequent coats will sink into the filler and surrounding paint at different rated.

Stopper is OK on top of primer, but you'll get sinkage again if it's a cellulose based stopper. Best to bet things as good as possible before paint goes on.

You'll probably find the rattle can filler primer can be removed easily with a finger nail - so I'd remove it. Cellulose filler primer is fine. Don't use 2K without air fed breathing.

 

[Chipper]

You can roller on 2k hi-build primer, if yr prepared to do the work flatting. Likewise with epoxy primer if prepared to deal with 2k and rollering, could go epoxy then 2k hi-build, then top coats of choice. If you do roller or brush 2k still watch out, it's absorbed through skin...
There's a time window for going over epoxy and other things (see spec sheets), past which it needs scuffing before overcoating.

 

[tux]

1) Do i need to zinc primer just the bare metal places? or the whole van? or can u put filler directly on the bare metal (which is what i have always done in the past) Can filler primer be applied directly to the panel if it has patches of bare metal showing?
Filler should go directly onto bare metal, suitably cleaned and keyed. Primer/filler can go onto bare metal but won't stick very well, best to use a self etch to spot prime the bare bits then coat the whole lot with high build.


I have been using spray can filler primer but started to regret this and am going to change to a proper high build primer (rolled on then sanded back)
You will probably find that your rattle can primer is acrylic and can therefore react when you put cellulose on top of it. Best to remove it all if you can. It's not got the best adhesion so shouldn't be too difficult.

4) If i am using cellulose paint (i dont have any breathing equipment suitable for 2k) what high build primer do i use? can i use 2k high build?
You can buy cellulose high build primer and that is the way I would go in your situation. "2K safe" fly masks are available and some say that they are fine for ocaissional use, but personally I don't think its worth the risk. Everybodys "tolerance" to iso paints is different and you may have a high tolerance, but equally you may have a low tolerance. Best not to find out really. Also bear in mind that iso paints enter the body through the skin and eyes so its not just a mask you need to worry about. In short, don't go there!

5) will i have to remove all of the rattle can filler primer i have put on before i use a new type?
Yes. See above!

The above advice is based on my (limited) experience. Anyone that knows better, please jump in and correct me.

 

[jaykay]

i think i would use a isolator first,that would stop any reaction.

 

[Dusty]

Jaykay try the club 80-90 forum thread on roller painting vans, might help you, sorry dont have a link but its a very popular thread so should be easy to find.

btw think theres a link on the bickwerks site as well...

dusty

 

[jaykay]

jk

dusty,why you pointing me over there??
as a sprayer,the last thing i'd do is roller a van,or a skip come to that.
i said use a isolater as it seals what is all ready there,crap and all.

 

[Dusty]

sorry twas late and me not read thread properly,...
was meant for Oapt25, thought he wanted to paint the bus with out upseting the neighbours Sorry Folks...