brightspark
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a half inch jacobs fitted to a no 2 morse taper sleeve. the jacobs taper size was stamped on it so just knocked it off with a copper drift and fitted it to my drill
- Thread starter phill d
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phill d
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so would all the Jacobs 34 chucks be a jt6 inside them ?
I have never been into this sort of thing.
I presume you mean you got a chuck with bit sticking out and just took that out of the actual chuck yeah ?
did you have to drill through the chuck to get at the morse thing ?
phill
I have never been into this sort of thing.
I presume you mean you got a chuck with bit sticking out and just took that out of the actual chuck yeah ?
did you have to drill through the chuck to get at the morse thing ?
phill
brightspark
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Richardjjj
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Hi Phil
Glad you have the drill working now, looks good.
Had the same issues with chucks when looking for a smaller one for mine.
Recommended way for removing them is a pair of slotted wedges between the chuck body and the shoulder on the taper.
As far as I know there at least 3 different tapers for 34 series chucks JT 2, 6 and 33
roofman
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the way to remove chucks off Jt tapers easily ive found is a ball joint remover....put the wedged forks between the rear of chuck and the front of a morse taper and one tap with the hammer and its off
phill d
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High Richard, yep my drill is working like a dream, the slowest mode on the pulleys is no good as I need to get new pulley on the motor, the
bottom v for the belt has worn too thin and broke, so I use it on the next step up and so far its been brilliant.
I took it all apart and painted it up after getting everything nice and clean and tidy.
This drill is brilliant, never takes any notice or slows down at all, how its supposed to be just half an horsepower in beyond me.
a new 1hp motor has not go this much oomph, I have a 3hp on my compressor and i am sure this old hoover motor could out power that too.
The parts manual helped me big time and sort of gave me a kick start, but some things are a bit strange in the manual.
a few people on here helped me out with the motor problem not starting on its own, turned out to be extremely dirty clutch switch inside the motor.
Electric stuff not really being my thing I was a bit dubious of touching the motor, but with help I got it apart and even fixed the problem.
Now its instant to max rpms on the motor, as soon as I press the start button its realy kicks in fast and just purrs away.
I have fitted a couple of bit of draught excluder to the lid to stop any harmonic vibration noise, it realy did make a difference.
very well pleased with this drill and now understand why people like the old machinery in preference to new stuff.
I like the look of the drill now its all finished and clean etc, and been looking at some of the old lathes on here, fantastic looking stuff.
spent tonight looking at the bench vice section, some good stuff there too.
maybe my vice would like to be same colour as my drill !!!
phill
bottom v for the belt has worn too thin and broke, so I use it on the next step up and so far its been brilliant.
I took it all apart and painted it up after getting everything nice and clean and tidy.
This drill is brilliant, never takes any notice or slows down at all, how its supposed to be just half an horsepower in beyond me.
a new 1hp motor has not go this much oomph, I have a 3hp on my compressor and i am sure this old hoover motor could out power that too.
The parts manual helped me big time and sort of gave me a kick start, but some things are a bit strange in the manual.
a few people on here helped me out with the motor problem not starting on its own, turned out to be extremely dirty clutch switch inside the motor.
Electric stuff not really being my thing I was a bit dubious of touching the motor, but with help I got it apart and even fixed the problem.
Now its instant to max rpms on the motor, as soon as I press the start button its realy kicks in fast and just purrs away.
I have fitted a couple of bit of draught excluder to the lid to stop any harmonic vibration noise, it realy did make a difference.
very well pleased with this drill and now understand why people like the old machinery in preference to new stuff.
I like the look of the drill now its all finished and clean etc, and been looking at some of the old lathes on here, fantastic looking stuff.
spent tonight looking at the bench vice section, some good stuff there too.
maybe my vice would like to be same colour as my drill !!!
phill
phill d
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- slough, berks , England
ahh the old ball joint splitter, yep sounds good.
I have about 5 different types of ball joint splitters. wind up ones and different size fork wedges etc.
its good to know that all different people use good old fashioned tools.
I cant see how the proper wedges would be much good unless you used them in a vice or hit both of them at same time with 2 hammers.
phill
I have about 5 different types of ball joint splitters. wind up ones and different size fork wedges etc.
its good to know that all different people use good old fashioned tools.
I cant see how the proper wedges would be much good unless you used them in a vice or hit both of them at same time with 2 hammers.
phill
series2
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Reviving an old thread but may help others searching.
The progress range of drills were aimed at repetitive production work, and as such are really over engineered. Things like the solid spindle with 5 bearing races, including a roller thrust bearing and separate bearings for the head pulley so load isn't transmitted to the spindle. On the down side, the slowest speed is 400 ish rpm, and they do all seem to break the motor pulley at the bottom.
Mine still has its original Hoover 1/2 hp motor (3 phase), but is now fitted with a VFD, the belt just stays on the middle setting, and I can get speeds as low as 200 rpm.
Gates still supply some spares for the Elliott machines, I just bought a new quill spring for my progress no.1.
There was an option for an MT1 spindle, but not many had them as it made the spindle longer.
The taper is a JT6, and as mentioned the knurled nut above the chuck is the "ejector",
The progress range of drills were aimed at repetitive production work, and as such are really over engineered. Things like the solid spindle with 5 bearing races, including a roller thrust bearing and separate bearings for the head pulley so load isn't transmitted to the spindle. On the down side, the slowest speed is 400 ish rpm, and they do all seem to break the motor pulley at the bottom.
Mine still has its original Hoover 1/2 hp motor (3 phase), but is now fitted with a VFD, the belt just stays on the middle setting, and I can get speeds as low as 200 rpm.
Gates still supply some spares for the Elliott machines, I just bought a new quill spring for my progress no.1.
There was an option for an MT1 spindle, but not many had them as it made the spindle longer.
The taper is a JT6, and as mentioned the knurled nut above the chuck is the "ejector",
rtbcomp
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The Progress No2 goes down to about 45 rpm
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