What does a thick welding table top add?

[Munkul]

For "grounding" problems you need to clamp stuff down to the bench to prevent arcing. If it arcs, it will stick.

 

[KemppiFrog]

For "grounding" problems you need to clamp stuff down to the bench to prevent arcing. If it arcs, it will stick.

Wot he said.
Me, built a 2x2 mtr frame as a platform to do the internal roof stuff in the barn. Now, it is my welding table. On legs and securely bolted to the floor, shimmed so it is is dead level. Helps when rebuilding old bent spaceframe chassis.
Not much help to the OP, but maybe find a bit of 8mm or more steel plate at at the scrappy and give it a good clean. Drill lots of holes so you can bolt things down, possibly using thin 'fingers' to hold the small bits.
Nice flowers!
KF

 

[rtcosic]

I rescued this offcut from the scrap bin some years decades ago.

It is
an anvil
a welding table
a marking out table
a weight for wood glue ups
and a few other things.

I keep thinking of finding someone with a mill to make the faces flat and parallel and the edges straight and square but I can never find the appropriate round tuit.

Obviously it's only good for brackets or minor repairs, but gets dragged out of hiding surprisingly often.

 

[MikeBs]

Make up a piece of rebar or other rod 13mm or so dia (1/2") into an "L" and make the short end pointed on the grinder.
maybe 2" long and 10" long, you could weld a 2" long piece at the end of the 10" as a Tee.

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I will shortly be doing the nails and washers thing again and may try this.
If I made this “L” piece long enough to sit outside the SS base plate and used this as the earth rather than the base plate, I assume this would solve the “sticking to base plate” problem.
Also is having the end pointed a good idea, rather than flat. Since this would be carrying the current and a bigger point of contact, I thought, would be beneficial as opposed to a point?

 

[Erie Fred]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I will shortly be doing the nails and washers thing again and may try this.
If I made this “L” piece long enough to sit outside the SS base plate and used this as the earth rather than the base plate, I assume this would solve the “sticking to base plate” problem.
Also is having the end pointed a good idea, rather than flat. Since this would be carrying the current and a bigger point of contact, I thought, would be beneficial as opposed to a point?

I would think so, but I've always seen them as a point, so it grabs better, and if there is any scale/rust/paint, penetrates thru to make good contact.
It's easy to grind a point and try it, you can always round it off on the grinder and see how that works too.

And report back here with what you found works, and include some pix please.

 

[GRW]

I was lucky enough to find a small (600 x 600mm ish) heavy plate table on a sturdy legged steel frame & castors. I haven't much space inside my workshed so this is ideal to wheel out & use.