What causes this?

[Thebeast]

What the cause to this? I’m guessing it’s the slag getting trapped into the weld? I’m using 6013 3.2mm electrodes @110-120amps Ac. Moved from flat to T joints and they look awful :-( I’m doing a up and down motion while going along, I’m seeing the puddle going ahead in front of my rod but it’s hard to stop it from happening :/ any tips that could help with smoother welds?
Thanks everyone who comments I really appreciate all your help and time

 

[Barking Mat]

Not keeping the arc tight enough, have you cleaned up the metal properly ?

 

[Memmeddu]

View attachment 488037
What the cause to this? I’m guessing it’s the slag getting trapped into the weld? I’m using 6013 3.2mm electrodes @110-120amps Ac. Moved from flat to T joints and they look awful :-( I’m doing a up and down motion while going along, I’m seeing the puddle going ahead in front of my rod but it’s hard to stop it from happening :/ any tips that could help with smoother welds?
Thanks everyone who comments I really appreciate all your help and time

As above keep a tighter arc Wich means keep the electrode closer into the joint, tilt it little bit more backwards will help to reduce that to happen.
6013 are a pain I suggest you to switch over 7018 which are more satisfying to run but little harder to restart but after very little practice they are way better thrust me.
I can weld in every position with them but really can't using 6013 which requires a lot of effort for me.
Don't be afraid to try out 7018 a lot of people talks bad about them but just because they can't understand that if you break the tip of rod with your fingers (using gloves and once enough cool) it will restart immediately no problems just like 6013.

 

[Thebeast]

Not keeping the arc tight enough, have you cleaned up the metal properly ?

Yeah it was all cleaned up properly prior. Thanks i will try keeping the arc closer and see if that helps :-)

 

[Thebeast]

As above keep a tighter arc Wich means keep the electrode closer into the joint, tilt it little bit more backwards will help to reduce that to happen.
6013 are a pain I suggest you to switch over 7018 which are more satisfying to run but little harder to restart but after very little practice they are way better thrust me.
I can weld in every position with them but really can't using 6013 which requires a lot of effort for me.
Don't be afraid to try out 7018 a lot of people talks bad about them but just because they can't understand that if you break the tip of rod with your fingers (using gloves and once enough cool) it will restart immediately no problems just like 6013.

Thank you I will do this and look into getting some 7018 and trying them out

 

[minimutly]

I asked a fellow learner years ago after looking at his welds - can you see the pool? If not you have no hope.

 

[Tigman]

Its all to do with technique , don't do up and down motion ! Just stick the rod in and maintain the same angle all the way along , keep practising the penny will drop eventually !

 

[Thebeast]

Its all to do with technique , don't do up and down motion ! Just stick the rod in and maintain the same angle all the way along , keep practising the penny will drop eventually !

thank you mate

 

[Tigman]

Try putting the plates your weldin

g in this position and weld in the joint , you can then see both sides melting in , the Rod should be at 45degrees to both plates

 

[Rrobson]

Do a run with 2.5 first, that’ll leave a nice small bead to build up onto using 3.2’s. Don’t try to put too much in at once.

Other issues could be rod angle, travel angle, arc length, not aiming the arc equally at both pieces, travelling too fast not filling the joint, to name a few…

 

[Tigman]

When you get the hang of it rotate the plates to original position and try again ! It will help with positioning the rod to wet in both plates at the same time !

 

[Taylormade100]

Horizontal or vertical, if horizontal don't weave. Run straight along the join, then clean the slag off and run another in front of it. Clean the slag off that one and then one more run across the top.

 

[DAPPH]

Look at the site tutorials on arc welding half a dozen times so it sinks in then put it into practice . a decent electrode holder will naturally angle 10 to 11 degrees to the left without any difficulty , cut a block of wood to various suggrsted angle for electrode height angle and dry practice getting the feel for them so it becomes second nature to get the best angle for the job ..

Practice & practice , " Practice makes perfect " apparently .
Don't get disheartened if the first 60 welds aren't much cop ..we all had to start off from somewhere

Arc Tutorial - Rod Position, Motion, and Technique

A tutorial with a number of videos showing the motion and rod positioning used in most arc welding.

www.mig-welding.co.uk

 

[Erie Fred]

Its all to do with technique , don't do up and down motion ! Just stick the rod in and maintain the same angle all the way along , keep practising the penny will drop eventually !

This ^^^ and don't go so slow that the puddle runs ahead of you very much.
As the puddle goes, so does the slag.
Also crank up the amperage at least 15 - 25 amps

 

[minimutly]

And, take note that stick welding is a darn site more difficult than mig

 

[frank horton]

as Eire Fred said.....
I up the amps to the next big notch...."oil filled welder" and if poss tilt the piece away from the direction of the weld...
on the thicker welds MIG is like laying down bathroom silicone....

 

[Shedendman]

Its all to do with technique the penny will drop eventually !

I wish it would hurry up and drop with my tigging

 

[Morrisman]

Been a while since I stick welded but I’m sure I pulled the rod, rather than push over the weld.

 

[aesmith]

Been a while since I stick welded but I’m sure I pulled the rod, rather than push over the weld.

I was told "if there's slag, drag"

 

[minimutly]

Always drag stick