Wet room and tile backer board

[Welderpaul]

I'm making a bathroom into a fancy wet room in an upstairs bathroom. I'm doing away with the grotty shower tray and shower screen. Ive been looking at different tanking systems and they seem reasonably simple. Jackoboard seems the most popular, but there are others about. I'm looking at using the preformed shower base unit, then tanking the floor and two of the walls, full height.

Seemingly the plasterboard needs to come off, and this replaces it. They do an underfloor heating system which goes with it - be rude not to stick that in whilst the floor's up.

Has anyone done anything like this, any pros/cons, oreferred make of gear?

Thanks as always

 

[knighty]

haven't done a wet room before, but I helped my brother fit a new bathroom, used jackoboard everywhere to make sure moisture was trapped inside (plasterboard was soaking when we stripped the bathroom out)

it was jackoboard, with tape painted into the joins and then another paint on top of that (over the joins)

maybe it was the same paint...

it was all the Jackoboard system and it worked perfectly, later on he took plasterboard in the next room down and the back of the jackoboard etc. was all bone dry

 

[Dapph2]

I turned a tiny stud-walled bungalow bathroom into a fully tanked wet room 8x6 feet into a...wet room 28yrs ago using AQUABOARDS
rather than have the problem of a step UP tray to step over , I popped the floor screed stripped the plasterboard. let the walls dry for 10 days then lined over the batons an in between them fixing them in place with a stapler & stainless staples,,. Used cut to size insulation batts between the batons and stapled them in place wit 3 inch wide strips of heave duty WPM, when all done I shaped the floor to a flush floor drain using 1/4 wide strips of pine to get the floor nice & evenly sloped to the drain , put in a waterproofed floor sheet added the floor and p drain then floated a new waterproof screed mix over the floor .. made a Scaff board bridge to get to the pan put in a copper pipe swan neck for the under floor heating cable and a capped off soldered thermostat pipe both which went through the wall into the hallway terminating inside an extra deep back box ,, adding a three pole isolator for the incoming power up at the coving in the hall .
I then fully lined all the walls in 2 more layers of wpm that over lapped by 4 inches .making sure it over lapped at the floor by 3 inches. used a dozen or so 1200 x 100 Aqua panels drilled with a 3 mm masonry drill & secured by Aqua panels special trumpet head screws that cut their own countersinks.

Painted the floor in three coats of conductive copper paint added the matting taking resistance reading before during and after and recording them on an eXcel sheet gave the matting a thin rubberised cement coating put on with a brush and a plastic float so as not to damage the element , let it cure for three days then cut up several thick carboard boxes
so I could kneel on them o do the tiling

I chose a grey Pilkington slip-resistant glass floor tile and radiused upstand tiles along with the correct angled corner upstands m put the upstands & corners using a cheap laser level stuck to a small plate. Next day tiled the floor cutting several to make the classic x across & into the floor drain having the upstands level it was a doddle to work out the wall centres etc and ensure tiling round the windows & sink looked good two days after finishing and grouting with a waterproof grout Three days later I fitted the new Mirna power shower & fitted a humidistat controlled extractor unit to the outside wall .

Yes it was expensive but not anywhere as expensive as the £6000 up front in cash that my neighbour who did such bathroom conversions wanted with a final settlement on completion ..

The guy would have used the cheapest water resistant Formica covered ply for the walls . plastic joining strips & a six inch high shower tray where the outlet drain would have been run along the internal wall .


When we sold up to move here to Wales the purchaser paid the full asking price commenting how well the alterations and improvements had been made.

The estate agent nearly choked at us getting full asking price I set at £14000 above similar priced local properties "No body ever gets full asking price" the head honcho said as I challenged him to a reduced commission if it sold within a week .
Which should tell you everything about estate agents.


As it is an upstairs bathroom perhaps lift the floor three or four inches lower the shower drain shape the wet floor area and cut the bath room door top and bottom so fresh air is drawn from the house for extractor fan venting , it's likely to be cheaper than a shower tray job .