Wellsaw 4" mechanical hacksaw

[Windy Miller]

Contactor is now re-assembled, time for a good test cut. This is 70mm bar and it went straight through in about 8 minutes. Happy with that

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Looks a nice clean cut there @Pete.

 

[Pete.]

I remember your look of shock when you saw the size of the hacksaw but it’s turned out a nice little chap

Lol yeah I imagined it to be a bit larger from the pics. You're right though, it's turned out to be just about ideal for my workshop

Looks a nice clean cut there @Pete.

Yes mate it does cut nice. I have to find some locking casters as I do need to be able to move it but I can't run it on the wheels because it dances all over the workshop

 

[pressbrake1]

Lol yeah I imagined it to be a bit larger from the pics. You're right though, it's turned out to be just about ideal for my workshop



Yes mate it does cut nice. I have to find some locking casters as I do need to be able to move it but I can't run it on the wheels because it dances all over the workshop

The power lead is like a leash holding back a dog when a donkey saw is on castor s

 

[brightspark]

i generaly use rocol cutting compound using mine just rub it round the job with a paintbrush . cuts faster and blade lasts longer another thing i do is if the blade gets a bit worn in one spot cutting smallish stuff i put a block in the vice and it moves the position of the cut you wouldnt think i have about 35 spare blades gotta make them last

 

[ikb1955]

Hi Pete
I have just bought a 4 inch wellsaw and I cannot find a way of adjusting the final twin belts could you please tell me if anything is missing, thank you.

 

[God mode restorations]

The saw is back together and running. Make very nice tidy cuts, I tested it on some box section.

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I do have a few small jobs and some teething problems to sort:

The 415V starter does not like the 240V motor, have to look at that probably disable the overload.
Fit the weight on the bow, I left it of for a test because it's sat on flimsy castors
Set up the oil damper
Recess the bottom faces of both of the vice jaws for better clamping. Right now they can turn too easily even when tight.
Find some better (braked) castors so that it doesn't dance all over the floor. Even without the weight fitted it was walking about the place.
Scrape in the remaining faces on the sliding ways. The geometry is good I just want the faces straightened up and retaining oil.

Lovely bit of kit

 

[ikb1955]

Lovely bit of kit

Very nice, could you please send a photo of the twin belt adjuster please.

 

[Pete.]

Very nice, could you please send a photo of the twin belt adjuster please.

Let me go out ad see if I can figure out how it works. It' bee a while and I don't remember.

 

[Pete.]

Loosen this nut. The hole behind it is much bigger than the other nut and allows you to hinge the pulleys downwards for tension.

 

[WillCorke]

nice job the contactor coil will be 415 volt and hardly pull in on 240v its either a new starter or a 240v coil if its worth it and available;e

I'm facing exactly the same problem with the 4" Wellsaw I've just got and am converting (same Hoover motor and microswitch, they clearly last wekk) to a single phase motor.

The Brook switch on mine is the same as Pete's and I want to keep it (appearance / originality) but the solenoid coil isn't holding in the on position. Presumbably a 230 vs 415 v problem.

I can try reducing the resistance in the coil by removing some windings, but what change in resistance should I aim for (am certainly not an elec. engineer)? And if that fails, what's the best way to get a suitable 240v replacement?

The fitted coil is as expected from the table inside the cover 50x350. Is 350 the number of windings? I need a higher magnetic force, which is a balance of the number of windings and resistance (in opposition), right?

Really hoping someone has found a simpler solution to this than 3D printing and winding the coil themselves :-)

Thanks, William

 

[Seadog]

50/350 denotes a 350 -550v coil if you take the time to read the label.
So your assumption is correct re voltage.

 

[WillCorke]

Thanks, that's what I figured. But finding (or making) a 50 x 160 solenoid coil is the challenge I'm hoping for some help with (at least I think that will be the answer based on this thread and what I've tested and read elsewhere).

 

[Pete.]

Far easier to get a small transformer and power only the coil through that. A 415-240 wired backwards will give you 415v from 240v mains supply.

 

[WillCorke]

That's ingenious. So wire the transformer (wired backwards) in series between the live feed terminal in the switch (L1) and the solenoid coil? I probably haven't fully understood yet!

 

[Pete.]

Wire the transformer 240v side to the two terminals that normally power the solenoid coil, and the coil leads to the 415v side.

 

[WillCorke]

Got it, thank you that's clear.

Something like this? (Currently £36 on UK Amazon.)

 

[WillCorke]

This looks superior to the earlier one - has been tested and looks better made.