Welding/rolling/adding a lip to an intercooler

[Mark E]

Hi guys,

I'm new to the forum and to the world of welding but have been very impressed by the threads I've read so far. I have a load to learn and look forward to doing so.

One job that I am keen to tackle on my car is the output mouth of my intercooler.

I added a bit of 4" pipe and compressed it and a friend TIGged it up for me. The problem I have is that it is now smooth and the silicone hose and the clamps are prone to sliding off it when I tighten them or I am pushing the boost on the car.

What would be the best way to make a lip/bead roll around the edge to prevent this?

I saw some ingenious home made bead rollers but they looked to be unsuitable.

The metal is 2-3mm thick I believe and is aluminium.

Thanks for any advice in advance and I hope to learn and contribute as I go.

Regards,

Mark

PS If you are curious about the car, which is my pride and joy, see my signature!

 

[Shox Dr]

what you need is a lip, usually formed in a continuous bead about 30mm in. I doubt you will find anyone with one so you need to press 4 or 5 "nipples" around the tube push the pipe over them and fix with jubilee clip

 

[Shox Dr]

oh sorry just looked at the pics. space the nipples +5mm the thickness of the clamp from the plate.

 

[Mark E]

Sorry, what do you mean by nipples? That's what I was hoping to do by welding but if nipples are a better idea then I'm all ears!.

Looks like signature will have to wait until I am trusted

 

[the snooper]

why not just use a very light hammer and tap the top of the pipe you had tigged outwards so its not just a straight wall anymore

 

[Mark E]

I thought that might work but wasn't sure - that may be the best way. I should probably then grind the edges with a rasp to make them less sharp to not cut the silicone.

I'm a master of making things harder on myself

It just seemed a bit too easy and might be a bit uneven.

 

[Delta]

I would cut it off and make another out of much thicker material with a bead already on it before welding it on.
It looks far too thin and you will always deforming problems.

 

[Punx0r]

Mikalor clamps should hole better than a jubilee type, if you're not already using one.

To use what you already have, you could form a lip by wrapping a narrow strip of ally. Ideally spot welded in place, but a decent adhesive might do in a pinch.

 

[Mark E]

What thickness would be strong enough? That's the other reason I didn't feel like bending the mouth open. Presumably it can bend back under the clamps.

Presumably I'd need a TIG for this again. The guy that did the work last time is in the US and I've only just got a MIG so am not really set up yet.

How difficult would this be for someone to make and weld on? Cost wise I mean.

It's never easy is it?!


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.462736,-0.155354

 

[Windy Miller]

What about that Durafix or that Lumiweld or whatever it was that was mentioned on here a while ago? Basically a type of diy ally brazing stuff. Maybe attach a ring of ally or an olive with that? It would save the need for TIG again

 

[paul_f]

This method looks pretty good

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/324132-homemade-intercooler-pipe-bead-tool.html

 

[Chipper]

I made a quickie cheap*rse tool out of a pair of pliers; grind a small s/s bolt to a taper with a rounded end. Drill through pliers, so there's a hole in one jaw and a small recess in the other. Weld bolt in. It makes dimples only, but does the job.
You can narrow and shape the pliers so they don't put flats on the tube.

 

[hotrodder]

Given how short the outlet stub is (30, maybe 40mm long tops?) I reckon the modified pliers method is about your only hope to salvage that without starting over/welding. Doesn't look like the stub is long enough for the extra width of a Mikalor clamp but if there is, as said, it'd help. If you were to start over 16swg is more than thick enough if rolling the hose retaining bead provided there's enough room to make the stub a bit longer i.e. so you're not clamping right at the edge
If it has to remain really short you'd be better off with a thicker wall and either machining the hose retaining bead or adding it via a weld bead

 

[Delta]

Cut and weld one of these on:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-long-AL..._CarParts_SM&hash=item5631dc1f5c#ht_500wt_964

For £6.45 shipped it's not worth arsing around with anything else.

100mm is one heck of a size for chargecooler hose, what are you running, about 1000bhp? Odd that the other inlet/outlet doesn't seem to be the same diameter too.
I'm intrigued......

 

[Mark E]

Cut and weld one of these on:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-long-AL..._CarParts_SM&hash=item5631dc1f5c#ht_500wt_964

For £6.45 shipped it's not worth arsing around with anything else.

100mm is one heck of a size for chargecooler hose, what are you running, about 1000bhp? Odd that the other inlet/outlet doesn't seem to be the same diameter too.
I'm intrigued......

That's alloy - would it go on aluminium with no problems?

It's a GMC Typhoon with a lot of upgrades. The turbo is a GT3582R with 650hp when it's tuned finally. Here's my build thread if you have some time..

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54212

This is what it does: (yes, that's my car!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJqyUQsBfsc

 

[nodeward]

i have just run a line of weld all the way round the tube in the past to form a raised edge,sometimes have to do a couple of runs on top of one another, might not work on yours as the pipe looks a bit too short

 

[hotrodder]

It'll be aluminium, for some reason (maybe began with 'alloy wheels') people use alloy as an abbreviation instead of ally/ali despite the fact the vast majority of metals are alloyed to make them more useful (steel being an alloy of iron and carbon for example). Perversely aluminium is one of the few that's also commonly used as a pure metal

 

[Mark E]

Cheers guys, I think I have some ideas to mull over!

 

[Delta]

That's alloy - would it go on aluminium with no problems?

It's a GMC Typhoon with a lot of upgrades. The turbo is a GT3582R with 650hp when it's tuned finally. Here's my build thread if you have some time..

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54212

This is what it does: (yes, that's my car!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJqyUQsBfsc

Bloody hell, that takes some time to spool!

Impressive!

 

[IanP]

Try something simpler

Put your hose in place and drill 6 or 8 2mm holes through the hose and lip and file these to fit tie-wraps using riffler or needle files.
Using a long tie wrap, thread this in and out the holes around the circumference.
If you can't get a tiewrap long enough, daisy chain shorter ones together (after fitting each one and pull the lot tight.
Alternatively, use garden wire (plastic covered) and twist the ends with pliers.
This will hold forever.