Weatherboard, Shiplap or Tongue & Groove...?

[The Z'eer]

Never used sweet chestnut, but have a red cedar greenhouse, weathers well and looks nice as it weathers, dread to think of the cost though to clad a garagre. There is a building local to here clad in larch, looks a dull grey now it has weathered in, suspect it may also be cost prohibitive too.
Back to weatherboard, my father used to have a holiday home, which was basically a posh shed. 3x2 frame with thin polythene over the outside of the frame, then tanalised weather board. Inside is lined with rock wool and plasterboard. It was externally reboarded in 1978 the summer I left school. Then in 85 a small fire, so this was when the cardboard type lining was replaced with plasterboard. The weather board where not burnt was removed and new polythene installed.

I past there a couple of months ago. Stopped to speak to the old neighbour. The boards are still in decent condition and have not been replaced. So bascally tanalised 1/2 inch planned weather board is now 40 years old and still looking good.
The shed I replaced when I built mine was initially the village school prefab built in 1919, so im pretty sure with regular coats of shed paint mine should out live me.

The polythene or membrane in my case are just to stop driving rain and damp from getting in, also reduces draughts massivly.

A frame with membrane over the weather board would be fine, just like any shed, but you could line with osb and use rockwool inbetween to keep cost down

Thanks for advising on that

I'm toying with the idea of weatherboard or feather edge with the breathable membrane such as Tyvec behind it, then the framework with insulation (maybe Celotex) between the studs followed by plywood over the top.

Might I ask what OSB is? Does rockwool insulate as well as the likes of Celotex?

Lastly, I'm guessing the feather edge boarding was tantalised? With this in mind is there need to further the protection i.e painting or creosoting?

 

[The Z'eer]

Just my preference but i use 150mm x 2ex x 38mm rebated Feather Edge costing about £5 for 3.6m but as ever you need to check supply as i only use one place now as i i tried some others and it was just soaked till it dried out and cupped and warped, As ever you get what you pay for..

Oh dear, bad suppliers have been encountered then. This does concern me as like anyone I'd prefer to get a good deal but a quality product, many suppliers on eBay as well.

Any suggestions?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Might I ask what OSB is?

Orientated strand board. Cheaper and stronger than ply and suitable for structural works.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oriented_strand_board

 

[Olderisbetter]

Oh dear, bad suppliers have been encountered then. This does concern me as like anyone I'd prefer to get a good deal but a quality product, many suppliers on eBay as well.

Any suggestions?

The problem with buying offline is you rarely get what you see, I travel about 10 miles to get my timber and i have a sort through it, They used to moan a bit but i put it all back neat when i finish, I can only suggest looking for localish saw mills or suppliers..
I use the 8' x 2' osb3 tounge and groove sheets, the same as i use for the roof so the joints are not floating around, Easier to handle and less loss i think the last lot i got cost about £9 each..

 

[addjunkie]

Thanks for advising on that

I'm toying with the idea of weatherboard or feather edge with the breathable membrane such as Tyvec behind it, then the framework with insulation (maybe Celotex) between the studs followed by plywood over the top.

Might I ask what OSB is? Does rockwool insulate as well as the likes of Celotex?

Lastly, I'm guessing the feather edge boarding was tantalised? With this in mind is there need to further the protection i.e painting or creosoting?

I have an account with my local Jewsons, for timber I also go and look before I order. (We are quite remote so the account gets me free delivery). When I wanted the weatherboard for the chicken coup anything they had ready tanalized for sheds was crap. Decking etc joists all decent, only decent wood they had in planks ready tanalized was sarking boards, i used them to build a hut for her indoors alpacas. But they are really just planks not shaped, though Im sure they could be used in vertical overlap style to provide a decent shed if membrane is behind. Picture of alpaca shed below, I have another one to build similar in the spring.

The rep offered to get the weatherboard for our chicken coup tanalized for me, but it would need to be sent out elsewhere, so I didnt bother. But if I was using it to build a workshop, think I would have had it done then allowed it to properly dryout before using it. Weatherboard is a nice planned finish so you get a less rustic looking building, though I suspect the plastic imitation is probably cheaper now.

Rockwool and celotex are both insulation so ineffect do the same thing, but the sheet insulations like celotex / kingspan etc are thinner for the same Insulation value, also much more expensive. The sheet insulation also has a foil vapour barrier on one side, so if it does get damp no harm done, fiberglass on the other hand not so good.

The only thing I would suggest if your going this route " weatherboard or feather edge with the breathable membrane such as Tyvec behind it, then the framework with insulation (maybe Celotex) between the studs followed by plywood over the top.".... is make sure the there is a gap between the membrane and the celotex.

Yes my shed the boards are tanalized, but suggest recoating anyway, its a big investment, look after it.

 

[The Z'eer]

The problem with buying offline is you rarely get what you see, I travel about 10 miles to get my timber and i have a sort through it, They used to moan a bit but i put it all back neat when i finish, I can only suggest looking for localish saw mills or suppliers..
I use the 8' x 2' osb3 tounge and groove sheets, the same as i use for the roof so the joints are not floating around, Easier to handle and less loss i think the last lot i got cost about £9 each..

You have to sort through the timber, might I ask why this is? Due to my lack of experience I wouldn't know good timber from bad, only that a piece with lots of knots is to be avoided.

 

[The Z'eer]

I have an account with my local Jewsons, for timber I also go and look before I order. (We are quite remote so the account gets me free delivery). When I wanted the weatherboard for the chicken coup anything they had ready tanalized for sheds was crap. Decking etc joists all decent, only decent wood they had in planks ready tanalized was sarking boards, i used them to build a hut for her indoors alpacas. But they are really just planks not shaped, though Im sure they could be used in vertical overlap style to provide a decent shed if membrane is behind. Picture of alpaca shed below, I have another one to build similar in the spring.

The rep offered to get the weatherboard for our chicken coup tanalized for me, but it would need to be sent out elsewhere, so I didnt bother. But if I was using it to build a workshop, think I would have had it done then allowed it to properly dryout before using it. Weatherboard is a nice planned finish so you get a less rustic looking building, though I suspect the plastic imitation is probably cheaper now.

Rockwool and celotex are both insulation so ineffect do the same thing, but the sheet insulations like celotex / kingspan etc are thinner for the same Insulation value, also much more expensive. The sheet insulation also has a foil vapour barrier on one side, so if it does get damp no harm done, fiberglass on the other hand not so good.

The only thing I would suggest if your going this route " weatherboard or feather edge with the breathable membrane such as Tyvec behind it, then the framework with insulation (maybe Celotex) between the studs followed by plywood over the top.".... is make sure the there is a gap between the membrane and the celotex.

Yes my shed the boards are tanalized, but suggest recoating anyway, its a big investment, look after it.
View attachment 126338

I haven't worked out the cost for the sheds as yet, but I'm aware it'll involve a fair expenditure.

I think I might go the route of rock wool rather than Celotex. The main shed will see most of its usage between late march to mid October as it'll be used for painting body panels.

Did you say you've used Rockwool beforehand?

 

[Olderisbetter]

You have to sort through the timber, might I ask why this is? Due to my lack of experience I wouldn't know good timber from bad, only that a piece with lots of knots is to be avoided.

I avoid splits, bad looking knots and badly machined legnths, I sometimes paint cladding after a few years so the better it is new the less i have to do later.

 

[addjunkie]

I haven't worked out the cost for the sheds as yet, but I'm aware it'll involve a fair expenditure.

Did you say you've used Rockwool beforehand?

Rockwool Ive not used in the past, but have seen it, when its wet and soggy, not recomeneded, rot around that area will happen very quickly.

If i were going to use rock wool, for me it needs to be inside panels. You could build in sections like a timber framed house, but instead of using celotex use rock wool in your wooden frames. So that would be from inside to out...

12mm osb or ply, insulation, thin 6mm osb, batterns, membrane, batterns outer cladding. Wont be cheap but will be solid and toasty warm.

 

[The Z'eer]

Rockwool Ive not used in the past, but have seen it, when its wet and soggy, not recomeneded, rot around that area will happen very quickly.

If i were going to use rock wool, for me it needs to be inside panels. You could build in sections like a timber framed house, but instead of using celotex use rock wool in your wooden frames. So that would be from inside to out...

12mm osb or ply, insulation, thin 6mm osb, batterns, membrane, batterns outer cladding. Wont be cheap but will be solid and toasty warm.

So the celotex is more resistant to moisture and/or will dry out faster than rockwool? The plan would be to use some form of insulation in the framework (between the studs). So, featheredge boarding with a breathable membrane behind it (stapled to the framework) insulation then plywood on the inside of the framework. Will rockwool suffice for this or could it be a little risky?

 

[addjunkie]

Something like this, feather edge or weatherboard....same thing just different external look..

http://www.timber-frame-suppliers.c.../timber-frame-house-kit-3/#timber-frame-panel

 

[The Z'eer]

Something like this, feather edge or weatherboard....same thing just different external look..

http://www.timber-frame-suppliers.c.../timber-frame-house-kit-3/#timber-frame-panel

That's a nice structure, and thanks for the suggestion but maybe a little over engineered for my needs. I'm planning on floating floor and some roof insulation too.

On thinking about it I'm happy for the main building to sustain a temperature of circa 12-15 through the colder months via the help of a heater. Prolonged usage of the shed is unlikely.

 

[addjunkie]

Insulate the floor too.....12-15 degrees, I dont keep my house that warm...

 

[The Z'eer]

Insulate the floor too.....12-15 degrees, I dont keep my house that warm...

As long as the building is a similar temperature as the garage then I'll be happy. I'm satisfied to wear several layers through the colder months.

Did you you construct an insulated floating floor?

 

[addjunkie]

No my floor is good old fashioned hardcore, visqueen, then 6 inches of rc45 with a double rebar mesh. The concrete has fibers in it too for additional strength. The stuff used for large farm sheds. I got it for the same price as a very large order nextdoor were doing a huge shed. So it came the same day. A lower grade on a different day would have been about 15% more.

For insulation another option if your going to line the inside may be a foil type insulation, super 10 is a brand name but there are many others. Below is a link, not suggesting buying their product but will give you ideas of how to do it, there are some good schematics. In roofs the foil replaces the vapour barrier. Ive seen it used in a few local slate roofs.

https://www.ecohome-insulation.com/?i=38451

 

[The Z'eer]

No my floor is good old fashioned hardcore, visqueen, then 6 inches of rc45 with a double rebar mesh. The concrete has fibers in it too for additional strength. The stuff used for large farm sheds. I got it for the same price as a very large order nextdoor were doing a huge shed. So it came the same day. A lower grade on a different day would have been about 15% more.

For insulation another option if your going to line the inside may be a foil type insulation, super 10 is a brand name but there are many others. Below is a link, not suggesting buying their product but will give you ideas of how to do it, there are some good schematics. In roofs the foil replaces the vapour barrier. Ive seen it used in a few local slate roofs.

https://www.ecohome-insulation.com/?i=38451

I used MOT 1, 1200 DPM then C20 concrete. I didn't use any re bar with it though, I think next time round I might.

Thanks for that link! Some great info, and the more I know about the job the better. The product isn't a bad price either