Water pressure regulator 3 Bar, recommendations please.

[ajlelectronics]

We had a boiler warranty repair today, prompted by "fan with run bearings" type noises when delivering hot water. The engineer decided that it was probably caused by sludge so has left me with some cleaning agent to run through it in two batches. The Turbine valve was also replaced.

An additional problem that recently occurred is that Severn Trent repaired a leak up in the village. I didn't think that we were on the same line, but since then the water pressure has increased a great deal over what it always was. This means that the boiler is unable to heat all that flow and the engineer suggested a pressure regulator back to 3 Bar. Now I have looked around but there is a wide range of such devices and I don't know what to go for. My feeling is to just fit one to the boiler, due to restricted space around the incoming mains feed.

Suggestions and education would be welcome.

 

[voipio]

Caleffi 5350 or 5351 regulators seem OK. They have an outlet pressure adjustment range of 1-6 Bar. The 5350 has a simple screen around the pressure regulating cartridge, which will filter out the larger bits. The 5351 has an additional fine filter. They can be bought with different connection options, and have a port for a pressure gauge, which can be handy. A small downstream expansion tank might be worh including, since the regulator stops backflow. and expansion of the water between regulator and taps needs to go somewhere.

Other makes to consider are RWC (Reliance Water Controls), and Unvented Components Europe.

 

[gaz1]

We had a boiler warranty repair today, prompted by "fan with run bearings" type noises when delivering hot water. The engineer decided that it was probably caused by sludge so has left me with some cleaning agent to run through it in two batches. The Turbine valve was also replaced.

An additional problem that recently occurred is that Severn Trent repaired a leak up in the village. I didn't think that we were on the same line, but since then the water pressure has increased a great deal over what it always was. This means that the boiler is unable to heat all that flow and the engineer suggested a pressure regulator back to 3 Bar.

you can use 2 stop taps to lower your feed pressure one being the main incoming house stop tap or use the external stop tap on the street

we have a higher pressure on the water and even i have to lower the water pressure coming onto the property

whilst ive used 3 stop taps to do this it slows the feed of water going through the boiler to be heated up

to do this its the mains stop outside lower that lower the house stop tap as high pressure can cause screaming of water through your pipes but using 3 of them lets a slower amount as you go along the pipe feed whilst the toilet fills nice and quickly

dont use the boiler stop tap

the engineers comment is b.s

if a fan noise and theres 2 points to listen at depending on the boiler being used

top fan for blowing used air out the system and internal combustion fan you will need to trace that sound

central heating pump fan also causes a whine fan sound

i dont know your boiler but some systems use a diverter valve between hot water and central heating

if a diverter valve issue is there you may have a rad that warms up near the boiler

a fan sound is not caused by sludge on the hot water side of the system

 

[gaz1]

the stop tap reference is what id aim for

to lower your tap water to boiler pressure first as thats the sound i think your hearing as the water goes through the boiler

 

[Gareth J]

You can't use water taps to reduce water pressure. You can use them to throttle and reduce flow, which is what Gaz is describing. But you shouldn't. You can buy orifice plates to put inline of things you want reduced flow on, if you want to reduce flow by restricting pipe CSA. Using taps will just wear them out, they're *stop* taps.

 

[bricol]

I live with the high pressure - makes a better shower Does tend to wreck the water hammer arrestors I have on the loo and washing machine though, so I guess I ought to do something about it.

I fitted a Furnox filter into my system. I too had the “fan with dry bearings” noise, caused by a failed pump. Divertor valve also failed. Caused by crap in the system, despite several flushes, cleaning agents etc. The filter pulled out a lot of stuff when first fitted – I pulled the top off the first couple of times to lift the entire magnetic section out – the tube looked like a very bulbous Ann Summers device (so I’m told . . .) from all the particles collected.

The amount of crap it collected decreased rapidly until I only cleaned it once a year, when there was pretty much nothing in there.