- Thread starter MysterG
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MysterG
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So after a few days in the garage (more like hours as my back could not take long periods bent over) I have this.
All chamfers cut with hand tools, mainly as I have a dislike for routers and their ability to suddenly (in my hands at least) mess up a piece of wood. Not important on a couple of quids worth of B&Q pine but did not fancy testing my skills on expensive lumps of oak that took 3 weeks to arrive.
Next on the agenda drilling the peg hole, not something I've been looking forwards to ...
Oh and a bit of a tidy before I fire up the welder again
All chamfers cut with hand tools, mainly as I have a dislike for routers and their ability to suddenly (in my hands at least) mess up a piece of wood. Not important on a couple of quids worth of B&Q pine but did not fancy testing my skills on expensive lumps of oak that took 3 weeks to arrive.
Next on the agenda drilling the peg hole, not something I've been looking forwards to ...
Oh and a bit of a tidy before I fire up the welder again
gaz1
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with oak and olden days it was done nice
the mistakes was done up to be fancy and they was plenty of mistakes done years ago when making them and fitting them in place
these make the character of the building better
we have the old oak beams soild as they are they have there own style and shape just not always straight and was crafted that way to be like that
the mistakes was done up to be fancy and they was plenty of mistakes done years ago when making them and fitting them in place
these make the character of the building better
we have the old oak beams soild as they are they have there own style and shape just not always straight and was crafted that way to be like that
MysterG
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So yesterday I took out the remaining plaster board skin, the amount of light let into the stair well from upstairs is pleasing.
Next on the agenda getting the oak upstairs. I'm not a man of great strength, and there is such a limited amount of space available on the stairs you can't easily throw bodies at it and socially distance I had to come up with a way of me and MrsG getting them up there on our own.
Todays solution speaks for itself I think. Both upstairs well inside an hour. No injuries, and my back so far still in one piece.
Next on the agenda getting the oak upstairs. I'm not a man of great strength, and there is such a limited amount of space available on the stairs you can't easily throw bodies at it and socially distance I had to come up with a way of me and MrsG getting them up there on our own.
Todays solution speaks for itself I think. Both upstairs well inside an hour. No injuries, and my back so far still in one piece.
MysterG
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Yeah. Having not dealt with oak before I never really appreciated how heavy it is.
I have another cunning plan for the next lift ... and a neighbour on standby
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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For good reason, they look bloody scary!
The first one looks like a farm jack but with a wooden column, the second one is unbelievable, who would be brave (Stupid) enough to go up on that thing!
badabec
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the second one is unbelievable, who would be brave (Stupid) enough to go up on that thing!
How do you get back down?
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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Keep watching, there's a terrifying little hand crank to lower it.
MysterG
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Yesterday evening I implemented my solution to lifting an 80 plus kg beam above head height, with only a weakling with a dodgy back and his Wife on hand.
Simple 'scaffold' of assorted wood. 2 lengths of Spur shelving. 2 shelving brackets supposedly rated at 80 plus kgs (plus safety margin). 2 ratchet straps, not to lift just to catch the beam if a bracket failed. 2 saw horses so if everything failed the beam would not hit the floor and feet. Gloves and steel toecaps.
Just a matter of sitting the beam on the brackets, lifting one end (easy due to the pivot point created by the remaining bracket) move the bracket up a few inches, tighten the ratchet strap, and repeat for the other side.
Continue for 20ish minutes (including photo breaks), and then do a final lift over the top of the scaffold onto the brick pier, then over the other end onto the timber column I left in place at the other end.
Slow but far easier and safer than heaving it up in the air (with extra people) and having my back go mid lift. That would only end badly.
Tomorrow, it's time for the post.
Simple 'scaffold' of assorted wood. 2 lengths of Spur shelving. 2 shelving brackets supposedly rated at 80 plus kgs (plus safety margin). 2 ratchet straps, not to lift just to catch the beam if a bracket failed. 2 saw horses so if everything failed the beam would not hit the floor and feet. Gloves and steel toecaps.
Just a matter of sitting the beam on the brackets, lifting one end (easy due to the pivot point created by the remaining bracket) move the bracket up a few inches, tighten the ratchet strap, and repeat for the other side.
Continue for 20ish minutes (including photo breaks), and then do a final lift over the top of the scaffold onto the brick pier, then over the other end onto the timber column I left in place at the other end.
Slow but far easier and safer than heaving it up in the air (with extra people) and having my back go mid lift. That would only end badly.
Tomorrow, it's time for the post.
MysterG
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Not much to see this time. No fantastic contraptions, just used a webbing strap under the post with a loop either end to lift it vertically (from the lower stairs side) up into a tilted beam. Then across onto it's pad, tilting the beam vertical again.
Happy with the joint, and it's all pretty much spot on level wise. Not sure when to bang the peg in .... I can see no reason for the beam to have to come out again but ....
Happy with the joint, and it's all pretty much spot on level wise. Not sure when to bang the peg in .... I can see no reason for the beam to have to come out again but ....
MysterG
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Building Inspector came out earlier this week and was very complimentary about my work, assumed I'd got someone in to do it 
Just got to make good the walls and ceiling, have done boards for the floor already.
Then I have to get the banister and rail done. Trying to work out how to make it removeable in one piece so we can finally get larger items upstairs as and when.
Just got to make good the walls and ceiling, have done boards for the floor already.
Then I have to get the banister and rail done. Trying to work out how to make it removeable in one piece so we can finally get larger items upstairs as and when.
MysterG
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Been working on my version of the removable banister.
Took lots of thinking to get there, and hunting through the parts bin.
Found thickish ally channel that were the vertical supports for some adjustable shelving, and I also had a few stainless coach screws (6mm ish) whose head was a good fit.
Didn't have the depth of handrail to go vertial like in the linked videos, so I chopped out a slot by drill and hand (must get a palm router) and sunk a 3" length underneath into the handrail.
Into the post/newel went a coach screw with a short length of tube to form a stud.
Handrail drops (gets thumped, it's snug) onto them preventing all sideways/fore/aft movement. Once the spindles are attached down to the base rail and the base rail is screwed to the floor, that will prevent any twist or lift.
Should be a simple matter of a couple of screws out of the floor to remove the whole thing. And they can be hidden under loose fillet strips between spindles.
And yes I know my plastering is crap
but that s what sandpaper and filler are for.
Took lots of thinking to get there, and hunting through the parts bin.
Found thickish ally channel that were the vertical supports for some adjustable shelving, and I also had a few stainless coach screws (6mm ish) whose head was a good fit.
Didn't have the depth of handrail to go vertial like in the linked videos, so I chopped out a slot by drill and hand (must get a palm router) and sunk a 3" length underneath into the handrail.
Into the post/newel went a coach screw with a short length of tube to form a stud.
Handrail drops (gets thumped, it's snug) onto them preventing all sideways/fore/aft movement. Once the spindles are attached down to the base rail and the base rail is screwed to the floor, that will prevent any twist or lift.
Should be a simple matter of a couple of screws out of the floor to remove the whole thing. And they can be hidden under loose fillet strips between spindles.
And yes I know my plastering is crap
but that s what sandpaper and filler are for.
MysterG
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Well removable banister is sorted apart from painting and fitting all the fillet strips. Then the wall to finish painting.
Not to everyone's taste (my Father hates it!) but it makes us smile.
Wood work over. I'll try and get something metal done for my next project
Not to everyone's taste (my Father hates it!) but it makes us smile.
Wood work over. I'll try and get something metal done for my next project
