A simple way to test which side of the car you have a noisy cv is to drive the suspected noisy side onto a firm wet grass verge, pull the handbrake on tight & let out the clutch while turning the steering wheel. Just the wheel on the grass should spin unless you have a lsd fitted. Repeat for the other wheel & you'll be able to confirm which side is noisy.
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Moose McAlpine
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You'll never get one of those joints off by hitting it with a hammer. Get the joint out of the hub, wind the hub bolt into it all the way. The splines will cut through the C-clip and the joint will pull off.
To be fair I gave up after a few reasonable taps , then just tilted it to the extremes and cut the inner race , to which it fell off , Leaving me the ability to remove the clip .
I am still trying to get to the bottom of the sounds , tired the recommended ideas as others have posted , and still no success .
Next I am going to jack it up and lower the wishbone onto some blocks of wood , to simulate the geometry / weight bearing on the suspension and fire it up on full lock .
I’ve got two ideas left , either it is a duff CV , but odd it only does it on right lock , anything past 5 degree at steering wheel , or is a hub bearing behaving odd . Just strange that it didn’t occur prior to replacement cv fitted .
Moose McAlpine
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- Norf Lund'n
I would strip all the brakes off, pull the CV out the hub and feel the bearing by hand with nothing else attached to it. You might find it spins too easy and it's knackered with no discernible play.
What brand is the new CV joint?
What brand is the new CV joint?
Did u replace the cv joint? Or did u just replace the torn boot ? If the latter yourold thorn boot let all the grease out and muck, dirt and water in and has probably worn the cv joint itself. If your lucky and catch it early u can usually get away with just replacing the boot if it's left to long u generally need to replace the cv joint. A good way to test is drive on full lock as tight a circle as possible both directions this puts alot of load on the joints and u will hear a knock / whine.
Well , it at it again . Stripped it back , all seemed ok , nothing catching or any wear marks .
I grabbed a hold of the drive shaft , held it tight and could rotate the hun and gold 5mm either direction and the drive shaft didn’t move .
So removed it from the hub , pulled the boot back , and had a look , it was sloppy on the plastic washer / spacer , and I could rotate it on the splines and tilt it back and forth with the cv bearings moving .
So basically the spline tolerances are was off . It felt solid when I fitted it , so don’t know why . Apart from being just $h1t …. It was £70 and a Q-drive from Euro parts , now a friend is getting one from another parts supplier he uses as he has accounts with them .
So for now it jacked up while I wait for it . Not happy , but hey . What can I do .
Thank you for everyone’s advice and help , and thank you to who ever mentioned that the easy way to remove the cv joint was to wind the hub bolt back in , popped off a dream .
I grabbed a hold of the drive shaft , held it tight and could rotate the hun and gold 5mm either direction and the drive shaft didn’t move .
So removed it from the hub , pulled the boot back , and had a look , it was sloppy on the plastic washer / spacer , and I could rotate it on the splines and tilt it back and forth with the cv bearings moving .
So basically the spline tolerances are was off . It felt solid when I fitted it , so don’t know why . Apart from being just $h1t …. It was £70 and a Q-drive from Euro parts , now a friend is getting one from another parts supplier he uses as he has accounts with them .
So for now it jacked up while I wait for it . Not happy , but hey . What can I do .
Thank you for everyone’s advice and help , and thank you to who ever mentioned that the easy way to remove the cv joint was to wind the hub bolt back in , popped off a dream .
So the games continue , I now think , yes … it’s the gearbox output bearing ….. joys
I have now replaced wheel bearing / hubs both sides , right hand inner and outer cv ….
So yesterday drained off the gear box oil , replaced with new , including a gear box bearing silencer liquids ( allowed correct volume )
The original oil was black as sin , you’d be forgiven to think it was engine oil .
Sadly after a ten mile run in , the grinding noise is slightly less on right turn , but the whining bearing when coasting , in neutral , where the noise is relevant to road speed still exists .
There are two things to note for me C after mucheo googling , I found the cause …. As it seems known ….https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/images/pdf/a5translevel.pdf
Although the barstuad is that the the original design spec / use of the gear box , a VW 0A4 , has been changed .so that the gear box is now roared about 5 degrees off it intended plane / level use …. So the original drain hole is too high , meaning that only 750ml of oil drains out . So they propose draining via a gear indent access hole …. Which is a pain , so I found dropping a different access panel , then dumps out the other litre …… given it holds 1.7 litre . It is a cast plate , bung with VW cast in it about 70 mm long .
So once out and drained for about an hour , it comes to refilling ….. yep , again , because it’s been rotated , you can’t get all the fluid in the intended fill / level check hole on the front …. I only managed to get a litre back in …. So checking the link I put up . You now have to put it in neutral , take the air box out , unscrew the reverse selector switch , and fill via a 10mm hose / funnel from above the engine .
So what do I take from this …. A twenty minute job became a few hours , nearly involving petrol and a lighter …
Funnily enough while searching why I couldn’t get enough oil back in , I found multiple forums where people claim to only being able to get 750mm out , or after draining fully , only being able to get a litre back in .
So now makes me wonder how many people are driving around with either not enough oil in the gear box , or only half fresh and half old oil …. Vw seriously messed up , but know as they issued an appendix , but it is hard to find
So anyway , I’ve still got my friend the whiney noise all the time , and slight grinding on right turn . After chatting to my friend who owned the van , he had the gearbox rebuilt at 70k as they were known for failure between 60 and 80 .
And further reading recommends not to rebuild a box a second time . And it’s looking like the output shaft bearing is on the way out , whilst not screaming , it isn’t well …
Now my next problem is working out if I can replace it from outside the box / pull it out or if the box needs splitting , and if so , I’ll just get a recon box … but the web is poor for info on the OA4 box .. plus I’m not a mechanic ….
God I hate my life some days , as I was planning on selling this year , and getting a bigger van as I’ve outgrown the caddy max , and want to get a Vivaro again .
I have now replaced wheel bearing / hubs both sides , right hand inner and outer cv ….
So yesterday drained off the gear box oil , replaced with new , including a gear box bearing silencer liquids ( allowed correct volume )
The original oil was black as sin , you’d be forgiven to think it was engine oil .
Sadly after a ten mile run in , the grinding noise is slightly less on right turn , but the whining bearing when coasting , in neutral , where the noise is relevant to road speed still exists .
There are two things to note for me C after mucheo googling , I found the cause …. As it seems known ….https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/images/pdf/a5translevel.pdf
Although the barstuad is that the the original design spec / use of the gear box , a VW 0A4 , has been changed .so that the gear box is now roared about 5 degrees off it intended plane / level use …. So the original drain hole is too high , meaning that only 750ml of oil drains out . So they propose draining via a gear indent access hole …. Which is a pain , so I found dropping a different access panel , then dumps out the other litre …… given it holds 1.7 litre . It is a cast plate , bung with VW cast in it about 70 mm long .
So once out and drained for about an hour , it comes to refilling ….. yep , again , because it’s been rotated , you can’t get all the fluid in the intended fill / level check hole on the front …. I only managed to get a litre back in …. So checking the link I put up . You now have to put it in neutral , take the air box out , unscrew the reverse selector switch , and fill via a 10mm hose / funnel from above the engine .
So what do I take from this …. A twenty minute job became a few hours , nearly involving petrol and a lighter …
Funnily enough while searching why I couldn’t get enough oil back in , I found multiple forums where people claim to only being able to get 750mm out , or after draining fully , only being able to get a litre back in .
So now makes me wonder how many people are driving around with either not enough oil in the gear box , or only half fresh and half old oil …. Vw seriously messed up , but know as they issued an appendix , but it is hard to find
So anyway , I’ve still got my friend the whiney noise all the time , and slight grinding on right turn . After chatting to my friend who owned the van , he had the gearbox rebuilt at 70k as they were known for failure between 60 and 80 .
And further reading recommends not to rebuild a box a second time . And it’s looking like the output shaft bearing is on the way out , whilst not screaming , it isn’t well …
Now my next problem is working out if I can replace it from outside the box / pull it out or if the box needs splitting , and if so , I’ll just get a recon box … but the web is poor for info on the OA4 box .. plus I’m not a mechanic ….
God I hate my life some days , as I was planning on selling this year , and getting a bigger van as I’ve outgrown the caddy max , and want to get a Vivaro again .
I feel your pain been that soldier a few times makes u nearly want to just cry. Don't let it beat you perseverance eventually pays off. Not overly familiar with that gearbox i seem to remember from your original post u only started getting this noise after u replaced the cv boot. Before you throw any more parts at it u need to try a d ioslate the problem. Can you jack up the front of the vehicle on jack stands amd try the re - create the noise turn each wheel by hand check for play ? If u had a helper u could drive the van through the gears on the stands (PLEASE BE VERY VERY CAREFUL DOING THIS ) have a helper use a stethoscope or long screw driver u will be able to hear if its from the gearbox or not. Could be something else that may become obvious. Also if it does come from the gearbox join a vw form and get advise there before u do anything else very talented experience guys on there that have seen it all will help u go about it in the proper way. Good luck
