daedalusminos
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- Norwich
Yours looks like a floor standing drill so technically it's a 2GS. Value wise, fully restored showroom condition you're probably looking at £1k+, a fixer upper from £150.
As above, that was the original machine configuration.the plate you show on motor is only for 440 volts not dual voltage
I do remember you mentioning these two books previously IIRC, that I forgot about,Info here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/progress-drills/
Manual here: https://www.scribd.com/document/494...PDF-Elliott-Progress-Drilling-machines-manual
or here: https://www.machinemanuals.co.uk/manual.php?p=38
3 phase means it is configured for industrial use. The electricity in your house is single or one phase.
Specifically in the case of your drill, you have two options: buy a single phase motor of the correct specification and swap it for the one that is there. This could be costly and slightly tricky as the original motor is likely to be made to imperial (inch) dimensions and these motors are much less used now, so command a higher price.
Second, the motor you have is for 440v three phase. It is possible, though sometimes difficult to convert it to 230v three phase which will allow you to run it from a box of electronic tricks known as a VFD.
What you do all depends on your confidence and willingness to learn. Start by researching three phase motors. Read up on 'star point' mentioned above. Look for two books by Jim Cox, 'Electric motors' and 'Electric motors in the home workshop'.
Wired up, still in 3 phase configuration, you'd do well to get one for £350 I reckon, and they often go for much more.What kind of value does it have? Not that I would sell it, I need it... But would be nice if I knew how grateful I need to be ?
...it is now in 2 pieces, (unsalvageable)...
I was going to post that!This should help prevent further damage...
Thanks I will do. Like I said before, last night's research eventually revealed that their is a school of thought who genuinely cannot understand why anyone with a lathe would ever buy a pre made pulley system as opposed to just machining their own on their lathe and I also noticed a couple of companies offering pulley set ups designed to spec, built up in separate layer and connected with either grub screws and one had a kind of unique, tapered push-fit system for each step. Agro shield's solution might sound simple to him but you're dealing here with a novice metal worker and to me it defeats Elliotts purpose, from the moment I saw him I wanted to see what he is completely capable of so I don't want to ask him to dance right after he's been kicked in the shins. I do have a cheap pillar drill, but like all cheap power tools it's just a lowly and noisy facsimile of what it's intended to be and struggled sometimes right out the box, with 4 mm mild steel plate (which is what I need to drill. Elliott is part of a bigger picture of mine. He's currently in pieces, some in the house, some in the shed and even under the tarp for the night, 6 decades of dirt and several different paint jobs has created a bigger than expected project for me, everything is at different stages of being stripped now, cleaned, unpainted, de-rusted, repainted and now obviously the pulley problem. I think I'd rather pay the cash for a bespoke cast iron pulley system (even powder coat blue) than try and bodge the break with my limited skills, but ideally some middle ground would be preferable. I'll take some photos for Agro tomorrow in better light but I'm sure the dimensions are standard for the model, with the correct abutment fitted, over a 2" diameter, 1" thick bearing casing and a 16mm spindle within that!!! Cheers
Nice but OUCH!