The sparkies have done me one better, and given me an older inverter that they phased out the model of
The quick guides for parker and siemens both state 4.7k ideally, although I suppose a 10k pot will work too, just means the drive maxes out/bottoms out before a full turn of the pot...
The pot Resistance value is not usually critical within a pretty wide band. The resistance cannot be so low that the power supply cannot provide enough current and the pot needs to be able to cope with the heat produced by the current flow.
The manual will often call for something very specific, say 5k, but the drive will usually live with half or double that without problems. The Altivar 11 manual calls for a pot in the 2.2k-10k range and says the drive can supply up to 10 mA.
At the worst conceivable case of 10 mA through a 2.2k pot, the heat produced would be 220 mW, so a 1/4-Watt pot will be fine. Doing the sums, the actual power dissipated will be somewhere between 46 mW (for a 2,2k pot) and 10 mW (for a 10k pot).
Putting a 10k pot on a drive that calls for 4.7k is unlikely to restrict the speed range available at all (IME).
It is worth paying for a "good" pot. IME the linearity is far more important than the rated value(s). Either a Vishay- or a Bourns-branded Precision Wirewound pot is my preferred fitment (unless it's going on the front of an industrial panel, in which case I'll use one of the spendy IP65, 22mm panel-mount pots from Emas or AutomationDirect. The ones from AD are a nice match for Telemecanique pushbuttons, etc, or their cheaper far-East copies, when things need to look "professional". The Emas ones are about half the price of the AD ones and I use them when outdoor-sealed-and-effective is more important than appearance). It is almost always worth having graduations on the pot knob or legend plate. You can buy cheaper Carbon-track pots, rather than the good wirewounds, but they can break down over time within the most-used range and become "jumpy".
Good 10-turn pots are easy to find on ebay with the appropriate graduated knob-thing. Good single-turn slightly less so. Which you go for is a matter of personal choice and, to some extent, the application.
If you are not used to analog speed control, 10-turn may be the better choice. If you have 5-10 second accel/decel ramps programmed, the 10-turn is also probably a good choice as it's slow enough to adjust that you don't get frustrated waiting for the speed to catch up. 10-turn is also good if you have really slow accel/decel ramps and/or need really sensitive speed control.
If you've ever used single-turn for speed control though, a 10-turn will annoy you every time you use it. If you haven't used single-turn, the 10-turn will be fine.
it's a 415v star motor, no 240v delta option on the plate.
From what i understand, an inverter will not give out a different voltage than is put in. You put 240v single phase in, you get 240v three phase out.
therefore, it has to be a 415v inverter, which means 415v 3 phase in, 415v 3 phase out.
Probably would get away with 230v on this applcation, since it's such a small load, but it doesn't make any odds to me since we have 3 phase, and they gave me a 415v siemens industrial type anyways.
If you adjust the vfd you can get full torque up to about 28hz, after that you’ll lose a bit of torque.For a welding positioner just wire the VFD to the motor however it's wound. You can happily drive a star wound 415 motor with a 240v output VFD, you just lose a lot of torque. Doesn't matter for the application, you have the worm gear doing most of the work.
Many a 415v suds pump running on 240v single phase with just a capacitor on the spare leg.
You can get 240v in 415 out inverters but they are expensive due to having gubbins to convert the voltage.
@Hopefuldave has modified his, I believe, to provide 415v. But you would need to have a good understanding of electronics if you wanted to tinker.