- Thread starter skotl
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Morris
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Our old bathroom had no extractor. Venting using the window was not the answer as black mould became a problem.
When we had the bathroom refitted I installed a single room MVHR unit. This is fed and vented by vent roof tiles which a local roofer fitted (N o ripping off tiles or any other issues, they were a slip in swap). They were positioned so that the ducting was semi-vertical to avoid water laying in it.
It works very well. On tick over setting it ventilates with little heat loss and on boost can clear a steamy fog in minutes with the added benefit of a room that's warmer after the shower than before!. No more mould as well.
When we had the bathroom refitted I installed a single room MVHR unit. This is fed and vented by vent roof tiles which a local roofer fitted (N o ripping off tiles or any other issues, they were a slip in swap). They were positioned so that the ducting was semi-vertical to avoid water laying in it.
It works very well. On tick over setting it ventilates with little heat loss and on boost can clear a steamy fog in minutes with the added benefit of a room that's warmer after the shower than before!. No more mould as well.
Erie Fred
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The standard 4" bathroom/dryer vent around here have a flapper, to keep air losses down.
gaz1
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it will reduce from an open tube but as goes for heat escaping thats a good way to loose heat out the house
the ceiling ones being the worst when they are directed straight up and out through the roof
there is 2 ways to stop this a heat exchanger cross flow and many will not pay that price
or you come back down so any water will go straight out on the same level any cold air coming in will be preheated by the room
the ceiling ones being the worst when they are directed straight up and out through the roof
there is 2 ways to stop this a heat exchanger cross flow and many will not pay that price
or you come back down so any water will go straight out on the same level any cold air coming in will be preheated by the room
Gareth J
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A single room mvhr would help a lot and save people having to remember opening and closing the window.
Eg;
www.fastlec.co.uk
Our bathroom used to be condensation filled, opening the window didn't help much. It seemed, when you did, it was poorly insulated and warm damp air from the house headed up there to try to escape out the window, condensing on the walls en route. Insulating the walls has stopped it but I'm still on the way to putting in an mvhr unit
Eg;
Vent-Axia 443312 Tempra P Single Room Heat Recovery Unit
Buy The Vent-Axia Lo-Carbon Tempra P Single Room Heat Recovery Unit for the best price with fast free delivery from Fastlec
www.fastlec.co.uk
Our bathroom used to be condensation filled, opening the window didn't help much. It seemed, when you did, it was poorly insulated and warm damp air from the house headed up there to try to escape out the window, condensing on the walls en route. Insulating the walls has stopped it but I'm still on the way to putting in an mvhr unit
I have a ceiling fan on a timer. Directly above the fan is a condensate trap/drain - that's piped out the soffit.
A short vertical run, a bend, then downward run to a vent in the soffit.
Got an old fan switch that pops a mechanically operated tag out saying "off" so I can tell if the fan is running on switch or timer.
As with any extraction, unless you let air in there, the fan can't pull any air out, so I open a window away from the fan. Clears the room quite well.
Same trick with kitchen extraction - up then down to the soffit. Open a window.
Rest of house stays warm. And dry.
A short vertical run, a bend, then downward run to a vent in the soffit.
Got an old fan switch that pops a mechanically operated tag out saying "off" so I can tell if the fan is running on switch or timer.
As with any extraction, unless you let air in there, the fan can't pull any air out, so I open a window away from the fan. Clears the room quite well.
Same trick with kitchen extraction - up then down to the soffit. Open a window.
Rest of house stays warm. And dry.
brightspark
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thats why i put in the post use insulated duct if possible i wont fit them through . i generaly sit the inline fan on a bit of a table 1 foot up from the ceiling then run a sloping down board to the outside grill with the ducting sat on top of it otherwise the pipe fills with water if its left to sag ive fit a lot and never had any problem ive seen and refitted loads of cockups as well to replace
best to get a high flow one and have it on a seperate switch to the light. no need to have them running going for a pee on the night
Erie Fred
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...except to mask the sound......
brightspark
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use this if you must vent through the roof keeping as short as possible https://www.toolstation.com/aluminium-insulated-flexible-ducting-hose/p91341
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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Fit a fan into the window pane or glazing unit ? Much better and easier than knocking holes in the roof or wall.
Window in our bathroom is open all the time, except when actually in the bath or shower when its very cold. Then opened immediately afterwards.
Window in our bathroom is open all the time, except when actually in the bath or shower when its very cold. Then opened immediately afterwards.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Surely the idea is to extract the moist air , having a window open can see a change in wind direction push the moisture deep into your home the only heat in our wet room is a thermostat controlled small radiator and the hot water pipe set inthe floor from thee boiler to the hot tap . You can just sense the warmth from running the hot water as the pipe cools down . The wetroom rad barely gets warm before the hallway thermostat stops the boiler it's been like this for almost 18 years and appears to be satisfactory , along with the latest extraction set up .. didn't manage to get time today to set the humidistat up as hoped .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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An acquaintance who is a high-specification architect doing multimillion homes told me the best way is to have vertical poly pipes with inline fans a metre or so above the ceiling and a humidistat just above the vent inside the vent pipe well before the fam so it will always extract till there is no discernable excess moisture in the room .
They also specify to fit translucent soup bowls an inch or so below the extraction point to catch any odd drips or debris that may result and at the top end of the vertical pipe outside is a mushroom cowl to keep the rain out set to regulations above the roof .
brightspark
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these are best fitted but no one wants to go the extra mile ,. water traps with an outlet overflow pipe to outside https://www.amazon.co.uk/100mm-4-Co...989923ecaf403d4588941e9612e3a363&gad_source=1
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Our fan is so quiet none in the house hear it when the wetroom door is closed if some one sets it going during silent hours , as it is almost three metres on from the intake pipe flanges , though if in the wet room you can hear a slight fan noise .
I like the idea of the simple condensate trap , for me it's an easy fit as all the verts are sealed push fits as on soil pipes . Do they ever scum up with black /green bacterial growth on ht damp areas?
I like the idea of the simple condensate trap , for me it's an easy fit as all the verts are sealed push fits as on soil pipes . Do they ever scum up with black /green bacterial growth on ht damp areas?
Gareth J
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Never seen a condensation trap, that's a good thing to know exists. Condensation can be minimised, if you keep the vent pipes below insulation and only let them pop out when they're headed downhill towards the soffit. Much harder to effectively insulate if you're going vertical to the roof though obviously.
Erie Fred
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Farside
Badly Welded Man
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Need a bouncy castle VROOOOMM fan, no worries then.
Erie Fred
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...equipped with a spark plug and ignition system.....think of the neighbors when exhausting eh ?
