Burdekin
Chief Bodger
- Messages
- 6,657
- Location
- Aberdeen
Thank you all very much for your replies. I apologize thoroughly for taking just about a year to reply. I had a new apartment purchase and renovation plus a childbirth in a meantime. Such events certainly put everything else far far aside
I will give replies to all comments:
Thanks for mentioning the aspect of wirebrushed / polished vs sand blasted surface. I had not thought of that. However, sand blasting facilities are quite rare in my area, and it is complicated to arrange anything with them. Would manual sanding with some rougher grit sand paper after wire brushing be enough to "key" the surface sufficiently for good adhesion of an epoxy primer? Which grit range is OK?
In other words, how can I achieve good adhesion of an epoxy primer to bare metal without sand blasting it?
What is the main benefit of zinc rich primers if their adhesion is so poor?
How much time do Gravitex and Raptor coatings need to fully cure?
Optima21, how is the bare epoxy primer holding on after one more year in the meantime?
johnser, you are quite right about the usual "hotspots" of rust in vehicles. It is usually in welds, seams, mounts, some cavity ends, etc. Cavity waxes is what should make a main defense there.
Daz1968, how is your work standing the test of time and use?
No. If you want the ultimate protection you've failed at the first hurdle if not media blasting. There is a significant difference (night v day) between hand prepping and media blasting and the ability to adhere to the substrate.