tungstens...2 questions

[roofman]

Been playing a bit with my Lincoln invertec V160-T and the seller (Jeff) gave me a few 1.6mm bits...my question is would i ever use the next size up or are these ok.I plan to buy some tomorrow and a few diferent size cups too.Also can i ask another question which is roughly related...even though ime not dipping the Tungsten its kinda going blunt pretty easy,is this related to not moving fast enough or do i need bigger as i up the amps. Thanks again

 

[zx9]

I will leave the answers to the more experianced but they are going to ask:
What current are you running through the 1.6?
What type / colour band are they?
And what material / thickness are you welding?

 

[roofman]

I will leave the answers to the more experianced but they are going to ask:
What current are you running through the 1.6?
What type / colour band are they?
And what material / thickness are you welding?

Yea logical questions i should of laid down the info Ime running 80-100 amps on 8mm plate and 120 amps on 10mm..mild steel and SS and using 1.6mm. type or colour not known as they are bits and pieces. hth

 

[zx9]

I would have thought that 120A is quite high for a 1.6mm tungsten, I would be on 2.4mm by then but wait for the experts to chime in.

 

[chevy2]

On DC tig you can get away with smaller tungstens for a given amperage compared to AC tig,
I've gone in the high 100s amperage wise on a 1.6 tungsten but in general once i go above around 120amps for any length of length of time i'll step up to a 2.4.

 

[roofman]

Ok guys i went out this morning to buy some consumables and had a play...bear in mind this is the 1st time ive used a Tig so go easy...anyway these pics are 115 amps, 1.6mm tungsten, number 8 ceramic, 10 lpm, and 2.4mm filler onto 6mm Stainless plate.Please feel free to advise as i need to listen and learn

 

[Richard.]

Technique is coming on but your top end of that machine is not enough for 8mm steel. Regarding the stainless you will need less current but you'll need more than 115amps for 6mm. Rough rule of thumb 30amps per 1mm for steel and around 25amps per 1mm for the stainless. Your welds look and are too cold. I'd do the above fillet with no less than 140 amps and pick up the travel speed which will reduce distortion. At 115 amps your 2.4 filler will be quenching or chilling the pool too much. Up it to a 2.4 tungsten and hit it at 140 plus pick up the travel and you'll have a much sounder joint.

 

[langy]

Gary & Richard have pretty much nailed it but your also wasting a lot of gas at 10lpm, I would knock it down to 5lpm with a gas lens

 

[roofman]

Technique is coming on but your top end of that machine is not enough for 8mm steel. Regarding the stainless you will need less current but you'll need more than 115amps for 6mm. Rough rule of thumb 30amps per 1mm for steel and around 25amps per 1mm for the stainless. Your welds look and are too cold. I'd do the above fillet with no less than 140 amps and pick up the travel speed which will reduce distortion. At 115 amps your 2.4 filler will be quenching or chilling the pool too much. Up it to a 2.4 tungsten and hit it at 140 plus pick up the travel and you'll have a much sounder joint.

gotcha Richard..cheers

 

[roofman]

Gary & Richard have pretty much nailed it but your also wasting a lot of gas at 10lpm, I would knock it down to 5lpm with a gas lens

cheers bud..will lower the gas a tad

 

[Superiorwelding]

roofman,
I agree with everyone else, looking good but need more amperage. You mentioned the 1.6mm tungsten was loosing its point quickly which I believe is just being at the upper limit of 1.6 mm tungsten and it also can possibly be the wrong tungsten, example would be pure. I personally recommend the 2.4 mm tungsten as the universal one. It can be used for the low amperage stuff and hit almost 200 amps for a few seconds. Keep up the great work, look forward to seeing your progress.
-Jonathan

 

[roofman]

roofman,
I agree with everyone else, looking good but need more amperage. You mentioned the 1.6mm tungsten was loosing its point quickly which I believe is just being at the upper limit of 1.6 mm tungsten and it also can possibly be the wrong tungsten, example would be pure. I personally recommend the 2.4 mm tungsten as the universal one. It can be used for the low amperage stuff and hit almost 200 amps for a few seconds. Keep up the great work, look forward to seeing your progress.
-Jonathan

Advice taken onboard Jonathan...having a play tomorrow with the new parameters advised.cheers

 

[Richard.]

I use only 2 sizes 1.6 and 2.4.
AC 5-90 1.6. Above 90 2.4.
DC 5-110 1.6 above 110 2.4.
Yes tungstens will cope with higher and lower currents than I specify but this is my range that works very well for me. In 90% of cases.

 

[Richard.]

Gary & Richard have pretty much nailed it but your also wasting a lot of gas at 10lpm, I would knock it down to 5lpm with a gas lens

Yes use a gas lens especially if doing stainless.

 

[HughF]

2.4 and 3.2 here, rarely get the 1.6 out... Easier to just grind the 2.4 to a needle and use that.

 

[Ami]

2.4 works great even up to 240 amps depending a little on your grind. Everyone else gave you great advice, but, looking at your pics I think you should lengthen your downslope a lot.

 

[Ami]

I have a tungsten question as well. I know most ppl like to taper to a point then touch the wheel to slightly flatten the point. I tend to do it the other way.I flatten the point then taper to the point I want cause sometimes if I flatten afterwards it breaks a little. Is there anything wrong with that method?

 

[Richard.]

For DC?? I don't put a flat on the point for dc as I am after a sharp point. For ac I sometimes do depending on the joint or sometimes I'll put 2 angles on it for ac a narrow prep 80% of the way up then a deeper angle at the end only for AC I'll do that to help aid an even ball. For DC I'll just point it sharp with various angles depends on what I'm welding.