- Thread starter sixtwoeight
- Start date
C
Chris Stevens
Guest
Grinder is untouched. Only difference from standard is to remove the end cover. Just need to machine a simple adapter to allow the diamond wheel to fit properly. The diamond wheels are designed for 10,000 rpm angle grinders, so no issues at all on a bench grinder at much lower rpm.........
C
Chris Stevens
Guest
I think it would be easy to make a little grinding fixture, which would make sharpening even very short tungstens easy, and would mean a bench grinder and diamond wheel wouldnt be that far away from a £600 pro grinder in terms of effectiveness.
Might be a project worth looking at for someone retired and wanting something easy to make, which should sell ok on Ebay? Nothing cost effective available for tungsten sharpening at the moment, and a kit of parts to convert a bench grinder for say £30ish might sell surprisingly well?
Might be a project worth looking at for someone retired and wanting something easy to make, which should sell ok on Ebay? Nothing cost effective available for tungsten sharpening at the moment, and a kit of parts to convert a bench grinder for say £30ish might sell surprisingly well?
C
Chris Stevens
Guest
For beginners sharpening tungstens is something they are going to be doing a fair amount of. Anything which makes that easier seems to me a good idea, and as most already have a bench grinder, a kit to convert it into a more effective tool for grinding tungstens for around the £30 mark, seems to me like it would be quite popular.
Richard why dont you invest £5.95 for 2 diamond wheels and give them a try? Its not much money, and I think like me you would never want to use a grindstone again.
Richard why dont you invest £5.95 for 2 diamond wheels and give them a try? Its not much money, and I think like me you would never want to use a grindstone again.
Richard.
Member
- Messages
- 18,344
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Because it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
I'm failing to see any real benefits. I can already get the prep done in a matter of seconds. I'm more up for utilising my time in more productive areas than making adaptors for something that isn't going to change its performance. If I showed you my tungstens you'd see they don't need a different wheel to improve there performance.
Richard.
Member
- Messages
- 18,344
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
And the dust that is of more concern is the actual tungsten. Your gonna get that in any grinding process with any wheel unless you used an enclosed device.
C
Chris Stevens
Guest
How can you be sure diamond wheels dont perform better than grindstones unless you try for yourself?
C
Chris Stevens
Guest
Have you used both, and if so what downsides did you find with the diamond?
Off track a bit but I use a diamond to hone my lathe cutting tools after grinding. They cut so much better & leave a nicer surface. I keep it on my lathe to touch up between grinds. I actuality don't regrind one unless I need to turn it into a different tool cause the diamond only takes a few strokes. I shape some carbide also & that is my reason for converting.
I have a diamond wheel I got from eBay that I made a arbor to run it in my lathe or mill but it only gets used for specific jobs. I also made an arbor to use a 3" saw from my biscuit jointer. It works a treat in my mill.
I have a diamond wheel I got from eBay that I made a arbor to run it in my lathe or mill but it only gets used for specific jobs. I also made an arbor to use a 3" saw from my biscuit jointer. It works a treat in my mill.
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,772
- Location
- Kent, UK
One benefit of using the wheel I linked to is that you can produce beautiful mirror-finish cutting edges on lathe tools and drill bits. Grind your tool normally then finish the edge with a lick on the diamond wheel. Then keep your fingers away from them because they are damn sharp.
Richard.
Member
- Messages
- 18,344
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Each to there own. Tool steel like drills I prefer a soft wheel
Green stone does the job perfectly with a great finish. Needs a dress up with the drills but 118 inclusive is something I can repeat over and over in quick succession and have been doing them like that since apprentice days on a softer wheel. Lathe tooling I've only started with as you know but I've cut all my own threading tools out of hss bar with spot on 55's and 60's internals and externals all on a soft wheel.
Yes the wheel gets eaten away with stuff like that but it finishes tools better than a hard wheel imo. Puts less heat into them too.
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
- Messages
- 12,425
- Location
- North West with water on 3 sides
Regarding HSS lathe tooling..i get the basic shape upto say 95% finnished with a general stone and regular water dips then move over to the green to put the edge on it ect and then use the green afterwards for a new edge every few hours or so turning time.. The greens are very sacraficial <<(spell) but easliy put back right with a dressing stone which ironicly takes another chunk of life off them but these days the greens are easily got for little money not like years ago when they were expensive to buy..I also use the green to point up my tungstens while held in a small drill and have this turning very fast..this gives me a very even angled point with no flat spots.Everyone has there own way of doing stuff at the end of the day which all leads to the same road for the hobby meister,shed time and playing with metal
I use a diamond file I have as well, indespensible when turning plastics for finishing cuts. Still have the scar on my arm to show how sharp they are when touched up!
