Tube to Tubeless Motorcycle Rims

[Dilkris]

Has anybody had first hand experience of converting tubed rims (generally centrally spoked) to tubeless? I note there are "kits" available but for what they are they appear expensive.
I run a Harley Davidson Sportster and the prospect of getting a puncture, especially in the rear, is a frightening thought to fix.
Any advice and "how to" much appreciated.

 

[Kram]

Easier to change bike...

I've had that problem. I started on a CG125 and constantly had punctures.

 

[Greeves246]

Yes it can be done using an inner tube cut down the centre but it is not advisable especially on such a heavyweight bike. The main reason is that the rim profile is wrong and doesn’t have a retaining lip if the tyre deflates. The tyre drops into the well in the centre throwing you down the road. Ever tried breaking the bead on a tubeless tyre? It’s difficult because of the lip on the rim.

 

[Pete.]

When you pump up a tubeless tyre fitted with a tube, how do you know that all of the air is inside the tube rather than part of it being inside the tube and the rest bring outside the tube but inside the tyre with pressure being held by the tyre on the bead?

 

[Kram]

You know because you'll hear it pssing out

 

[bricol]

Yes it can be done using an inner tube cut down the centre but it is not advisable especially on such a heavyweight bike. The main reason is that the rim profile is wrong and doesn’t have a retaining lip if the tyre deflates. The tyre drops into the well in the centre throwing you down the road. Ever tried breaking the bead on a tubeless tyre? It’s difficult because of the lip on the rim.

Would think the rim profile is the same worry tubed or tubeless - if the tube deflates, still nothing to keep the tyre on the rim.

 

[addjunkie]

You could change to cast wheels readily available for sportsters.

 

[Pete.]

You know because you'll hear it pssing out

If the tyre is sealed then only via the valve hole I guess.

Anyway, I don't really get the argument about avoiding punctures. If you get something through your tyre to make it go flat then it's going flat whether there's a trube in it or not because the tube will be pressed up tight to the inside of the tyre so it will get punctured too. At least if you have a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim you have a chance of plugging it or even running tyre slime to seal it up so it can be fixed properly.

 

[Dilkris]

You could change to cast wheels readily available for sportsters.

At a price.

 

[addjunkie]

At a price.

Used from a breaker or custom builder, quite common if you go looking.

 

[Kram]

If the tyre is sealed then only via the valve hole I guess.

Anyway, I don't really get the argument about avoiding punctures. If you get something through your tyre to make it go flat then it's going flat whether there's a trube in it or not because the tube will be pressed up tight to the inside of the tyre so it will get punctured too. At least if you have a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim you have a chance of plugging it or even running tyre slime to seal it up so it can be fixed properly.

Tubeless tyres have progressed and are far more resistant to punctures* where as tube tyres are generally the old cross/bias ply. I've no idea if the Sportster has decent tyres available but onmy cg125 the options were crp or shte. I tried commuting Gatwick to Folkestone a few times, cost me a fortune in repairs, renting a room from a pub, to get it sorted next day, happened three times I think in about 7 days/14 return journeys, and one that it was flat from the day before that I couldnt get to.

* With the exception of sods law, which in relation to tyres, states, regardless of tyre type, any new tyre has a 1 in 3 chance of picking up a nail in its first few hundred miles

 

[m_c]

Would think the rim profile is the same worry tubed or tubeless - if the tube deflates, still nothing to keep the tyre on the rim.

Without the tubeless ridges, the tyre is more likely to come off the bead under high sideways loads, which with a tube will simply pop back on, whereas with no tube you can end up with very sudden deflation.

If either go flat, the tyre popping of the bead is likely the least of your worries.