Toyota fun!

[gerrymoore]

Sorry Mr Fuzzy..I know nothing about diesels! I used to rally Lotus Escort Twin Cams and happily strip them down and rebuild them.... but diesels..???? Anyway the 'thingy' is at the end of the vacuum line and between the two solenoids ( what do they do? ) and it is a vacuum operated 'throttle' of some sort ...with the vacuum tube connected the 'throttle' is moving continuously and playing havoc with the idle.....soon as you remove the tube the 'throttle' stays still and the idle is perfect. I do have a video of this happening but it won't let me post an .mp4 file...can I use anything else??

Meanwhile I'll have a look for the Denso's.......thanks.

 

[MattF]

A photo of the parts in question is going to be worth a thousand words Gerry. The VSV's could be the ones for the butterfly and smooth shutdown, (if my memory serves correctly). As Mrfuzzy says, could be compensating for all of the crap which will be in the intake due to the EGR.

 

[gerrymoore]

Ok...I can't seem to load the video in either mp4 or avi so here are some photos. What I now know as the throttle body I took off a few months ago and gave it a good clean out..didn't help. If I take the vacuum off from the throttle, the engine runs fine but is a pig to start......I have taken it of the EGR end and the engine runs fine and starts easily.

After cleaning the EGR I am fairly certain it is not at fault.

I tried to block the end of the pipe as suggested but the idle went bad again....at the moment it is running and starting perfectly with the vacuum disconnected from the EGR valve.....is there any harm in leaving it like this?

 

[pondy]

That part with the vac hose going to it is not a throttle body, it will be an anti run on valve, basically a butter fly valve which with close when you turn off the engine to stop the engine running on, if you unplug it you may notice it does not shut down as smooth and may continue to run very slightly

 

[octo0072000]

whats it like beyond the throttle body is the question...basically when you remove the throttle body and look into the engine through the hole the throttle body connects to...what does it look like in there?

no throttle body it's a diesel fuelling controlled by pump/ecu

 

[octo0072000]

Gerry have you tried disconnecting the battery then connect both battery cables together leave for 10 mins that will reset the ecu so it will have to relearn takes approx 21 stops and starts
worth a try

 

[gerrymoore]

I'll have a try with that Octo..thanks...Mr Fuzzy..I never looked into the manifold when I cleaned the throttle part...back to my question though..will it do any harm to leave the tube off?? She only does about 100 miles a month (yes I know it's the wrong engine but she likes it) so I can't see it doing much harm?

 

[AndyStobbs]

Turbo diesels often have a means of reducing the amount of air inducted, or you'll get little to no EGR effect when on boost as EGR pressure is lower than manifold pressure.

 

[pondy]

Turbo diesels often have a means of reducing the amount of air inducted, or you'll get little to no EGR effect when on boost as EGR pressure is lower than manifold pressure.

I don't think it will egr on boost, it should only egr at idle, cruise and overrun. If your on boost or got your foot down the ecu will set for max power, to get max power the engine does not want to be breathing it's own ****, so to speak

 

[pondy]

Ok...I can't seem to load the video in either mp4 or avi so here are some photos. What I now know as the throttle body I took off a few months ago and gave it a good clean out..didn't help. If I take the vacuum off from the throttle, the engine runs fine but is a pig to start......I have taken it of the EGR end and the engine runs fine and starts easily.

Pulling the vac of the anti run on vac will make it harder the start as the valve will be closed. You need to swap the vac solenoids over and see what the egr one is doing. At the moment of you start the engine the valve on the anti run on should open then close when you turn the engine off, take the vac line from the egr and put on the anti run on valve, if it opens the valve on start up or does move when revved I would say the solenoid is stuck open, dont put the anti run valve line onto the egr as it will open the valve

 

[AndyStobbs]

A turbo is still boosting at cruise. What was the actual fault code for the injector?

 

[gerrymoore]

You guys are losing me now with all this technical jargon! I'm a TV engineer not a diesel mechanic!! Original fault was P0266 cylinder two contribution balance fault. Every time I clear the code it comes back in a couple of days. Car is still starting stopping and running fine with the vac tube off the EGR. Those little solenoids are £90 secondhand....wow, must be gold plated.

 

[AndyStobbs]

Have you priced new?

 

[AndyStobbs]

For a man who built his own cnc plasma this should be easy enough stuff to understand. its a flap, in a pipe, moved by a linkage attached to a diaphragm. The solenoid is just allowing or blocking vacuum to the diaphragm. As the 'flap' is spring biased then it defaults to one position.

Ditto on the EGR except its a poppet valve not a flap

 

[MattF]

back to my question though..will it do any harm to leave the tube off??

In answer to that question Gerry, no. End of the day, it's doing your engine a favour by not having crap from the exhaust piped back to the intake. The EGR system is only there for one purpose, and that's to cut down on a specific type of emission which isn't currently even tested for in this country, (unless the emissions test has changed recently?), so leaving the EGR as non functional by disconnecting or blocking that pipe has no downside as such.

Saying that though, I'd still be trying to track the issue down. You could just have a jammed VSV, (you can blow through it to test that. If you blow through the outlet, it should exit via the filter when not energised, and via the inlet when energised. The filter is that cylindrical plastic piece with the four small holes in the top which is located on either the top or side of the VSV), a constant voltage being applied to it etc. For a replacement VSV if you need one, get down to the scrapyard and just head for any Jap vehicle. They all use them. The only difference, if any, tends to be the connector, but that's easy enough to sort by splicing the new connector in, so make sure you get both the VSV, and its connector, with a foot or so of the cable intact, if you go to the scrappers. I have at least one Isuzu derived VSV in my Toyota, for a minor modification.

 

[gerrymoore]

Thanks for the info Matt...

Andy, point taken that I can build a CNC ....but I've found I can do almost anything if I have enough interest...unfortunately can't summon up enough for diesel emissions ...oh...a new Denso valve is £330 + vat + fitting.

I've just read something from honestJohn re this problem...if I take off the supply to the left valve it should cure the problem...if it does I'll look for a cheapo replacement as Matt suggests.

Have to say thanks to everyone over this......although the wife is still driving around oblivious!!

 

[MattF]

Btw, if you do disconnect any hoses and leave them disconnected, block the hose end somehow. Folding the end over to create a loop and using a tiewrap, cabletie or such to keep it looped over on itself will do. It'll just save any crap being sucked in, with it being under vacuum.

 

[MattF]

He could collar some of those little inline filters, as in the photo's, whilst he's at the scrappers and keep it all looking original. Although, if he manages to make it run like crap by blocking a hose, he's probably blocked the wrong one.