Bill Edwards
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- 4,956
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- Scarborough, North Yorkshire
There is a little misunderstanding here of the 'newer' kind of torquing which is measured in degrees.
These bolts are stretch bolts, as engines get smaller and lighter it's desirable to use smaller bolts but use them to their limit rather than just say 'let's make them thick and use loads of them'.
To get the ultimate strength/clamping force they are tightened to a set amount with a torque wrench then turned further. This stretches the bolt and takes it close to the point where it will snap, and this can only be done accurately with angles. You can feel a bolt become easier to turn just before it snaps - well that's exactly what this technique is for.
For this reason, you must never reuse stretch bolts.
The other thing is there is a big difference between the force needed to keep turning a fastener and the force required to start one turning, as noticed by WorkshopChris.
When you get near to the final torque you must give yourself room to keep turning in one movement until it clicks, you cannot stop to ratchet back a little as doing so may cause the wrench to click without it moving.
Also, on older engines you are often supposed to re-torque the cylinder head bolts when the engine has been run up to operating temperature. When doing this it's critical to back off the fastener first then apply the torque otherwise it often won't move at all despite being loose.
These bolts are stretch bolts, as engines get smaller and lighter it's desirable to use smaller bolts but use them to their limit rather than just say 'let's make them thick and use loads of them'.
To get the ultimate strength/clamping force they are tightened to a set amount with a torque wrench then turned further. This stretches the bolt and takes it close to the point where it will snap, and this can only be done accurately with angles. You can feel a bolt become easier to turn just before it snaps - well that's exactly what this technique is for.
For this reason, you must never reuse stretch bolts.
The other thing is there is a big difference between the force needed to keep turning a fastener and the force required to start one turning, as noticed by WorkshopChris.
When you get near to the final torque you must give yourself room to keep turning in one movement until it clicks, you cannot stop to ratchet back a little as doing so may cause the wrench to click without it moving.
Also, on older engines you are often supposed to re-torque the cylinder head bolts when the engine has been run up to operating temperature. When doing this it's critical to back off the fastener first then apply the torque otherwise it often won't move at all despite being loose.