Do you have your fluids mixed up for auto and manual i.e. Auto Trans Fluid in a manual!
@brokenbiker you need to have a read through this
was about to say ive found a bit of info saying my auto box takes ATF dextron II
was actually reading that as you posted it haha...it doesnt say what ATF to use though...very well written and informative though
Here the kit you need.
I’ll PM you my bill
cheers...cheaper than i thought too haha...
now as for your bill...you can make it out to my ex's address
If your auto gearbox is the same as a p38 it's filled through a filler plug , put atf in until it dribbles out .
Make sure you can undo this plug before you let the old stuff out and change the filter .
I’ve used JGS for bits for our D2, good prices.
yes same box i think...or if not its the same filling design
If you register on the D2BC site there is a discount code for JGS, only 5% but every little helps
I find JGS pretty good on prices, delivery and service, I also use Advanced Factors, if you sign up to the Disco 3 forum there is a discount code for Advanced Factors, theirs only kicks in over £50 and its a sliding scale from 5% upwards plus IIRC free delivery, again only over £50-
Nope, R380 manual gearbox is defo ATF and IIRC Dextron III (might be II)
Get the fluid changed first, not sure what box they run in them. If you can get to the oil cooler you can pump fresh in while the box pumps the old stuff out and that way you'll get all of it because that is the only way to get to the stuff in the torque converter. If he can't do that then it's probably worth doing again after a few hundred miles. If he is still getting a problem after changing the fluid then he could try some Dr Tranny, it a friction modifier but it's normally to fix torque converter lock up shudder. It can perform wonders in Disco 3 gearboxes. I friend of ours bought a D3 Auto that developed shudder, had the oil and gearbox filter done and it made no difference. I got him some Dr Tranny and he said it is like a different car, all for £11
Discovery 2 manual uses MTF94 not ATF.
Make sure you have correct fluid and you've watched a guide.
On some cars (Volvos for example) you can literally undo the wrong bolt and ruin the gearbox!
I'm not a fan of "power flushes" via the trans cooler....prefer the little and often changes myself but each to his own!
Advanced Factors aren't always the cheapest but the service is excellent, they always ring if something isn't in stock. What I also like is how they do kits with all the little bits you may need for doing a job so things like suspension arms can be ordered with a bolt kit. With brake kits they supply a tube of copper grease.
If it has a dipstick tube then I tend to suck it dry with a vacuum extractor then refill, I've done my last 2 Volvo via the cooler(mainly because I'd read about pulling the wrong bolt) and I do my D3 the same way. On the Volvo I pump a couple of litres then top up via the filler and pump some more and mark the container so I put the same amount back. On the D3 the connection is easy to get and is a simple rubber hose and jubilee clip so I put two clear 25l containers next to each other and fill one with new fluid and mark the empty one. I use a 12v pump to pump fresh in as the old stuff comes out.
Auto boxes tend to be pretty durable with regular changes and this filled for life idea is crazy. The ZF boxes in D3 would probably go on forever if they had 30k changes.
I have read loads of stories that if a box has done a load of miles then a total fluid change can cause more problems as the fresh fluid can dislodge deposits.
Cheers armalites..... I'm doing the trans fluid again over the weekend....hadn't thought of sucking it out of the dip tube!!! I'm just going to do a small swap every 10k....I don't have any gearbox issues so just precaution as I've never seen any mechanical system that prefers dirty fluids over clean!
I've even bought the blooming 12v pump too as I'm doing the Haldex fluid and the angle gear fluid and they need sucking out (its an XC70).
The friction material on autobox plates is perilously thin, if the oil is heavily contaminated/discoloured its probably from the plates which means the thing is on borrowed time. Upside is they really simple and very cheap to rebuild, downside is the rebuild ( hard parts) may not cure the problem if the ecu was knobbed/playing up in the first place.
Yep, my findings too, I tend to compare JGS and AF, AF website is really easy to navigate and they have useful exploded diagrams and LR part numbers plus you get the extra's
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