Torch valve leaking.

[redwine300]

Red torch on Clarke te135 has started to leak shielding gas. Can I replace the valve or have I got to replace the hole thing? (Thought these Clarke's were supposed to be reliable?) If I can replace either part where would be the best place to source?

Thanks in advance

 

[malcolm]

Some members on here have pulled the torch apart and sprayed a little penetrating fluid on the valve with great success. When I had my Clarke I was happy to bang the torch against something solid to get the valve to seal.

Either way, I'd not bother replacing the valve.

 

[redwine300]

If that is the case it does not sound as terminal as I first though. The way my welding is going I will be more than happy to hit something solid with it!!

 

[malcolm]

What's up with your welding? Feel free to post some photos on here - we might be able to help you sort out the problems. Apologies if I've missed a thread you've already started on this - if so point me to it.

 

[redwine300]

Initially the main problem has been trying to achieve some sort of consistency in basic setup. Suspect poor wire feed in conjunction with using pure CO2. Have just started to try some argon/co2 mix when the torch started to play up. Another problem has been what I first thought was cracking, but have since been advised by fellow members as poor penetration. Probably linked to the first issue. Have posted some pictures under the heading of Welds Cracking/Cracks in weld but very difficult to see. I think it is just a matter of patience and perseverance.

 

[wyn]

It would be worth having a look in the torch. It could be a loose pipe or fitting.This is what the inside looks like (pic from another thread).

 

[malcolm]

I've found that thread. I'd guess a lack of penetration in the places where the welds cracked - with grinding the metal around the welds might have got a bit thin.

But welds will tend to be a different stiffness than surrounding metal anyway (heat effects, thickness etc) and that puts stress on the heat affected zone beside the weld when you bend the metal. If you were running a bit hot there could have been undercutting beside the welds which would raise stress. Difficult to tell from the photos really. Post some that haven't been ground down if you fancy tips.

 

[redwine300]

Hi WYN, Thanks for the photo, Have had a look inside as you suggested. One thing that is apparent is that the plunger in the photo pushes fully back to the trigger.Where as mine only protrudes half way out from the housing. The feel of it is very sluggish and dose not spring back as you would expect. Would WD 40 be a good idear?