Timers

[Brad93]

New solenoid is a smaller orifice than the original. So something else is wrong, as its still overflowing - I've managed to stop it overflowing by altering the timer to only activate for half a second when opening the timer. It generates a little bit of steam, but no where near the amount the other side does. I'm starting to suspect the MI20 current measuring coil.

On saturday i will swap the coil from the working side to the non working side to see if the issue is rectified.

If that doesnt sort it then it must be that the steam generator is not boiling off the water as fast as its meant to be despite cleaning the plates and contacts of limescale.

 

[daleyd]

New solenoid is a smaller orifice than the original. So something else is wrong, as its still overflowing - I've managed to stop it overflowing by altering the timer to only activate for half a second when opening the timer. It generates a little bit of steam, but no where near the amount the other side does. I'm starting to suspect the MI20 current measuring coil.

On saturday i will swap the coil from the working side to the non working side to see if the issue is rectified.

If that doesnt sort it then it must be that the steam generator is not boiling off the water as fast as its meant to be despite cleaning the plates and contacts of limescale.

Is the current equal between the two when the heating is on? Possibly some elements are u/s not generating enough heat?

I think the issue with altering the timer to a smaller setting means the heater will also come on for less time, the two work together, or at least it seems that way.

I think the current measuring device only comes into play of it draws more current than normal (don’t really know for sure that’s just a guess), and not in normal operation. But you could take that out of circuit completely to eliminate it. (Or swap it as you plan to anyway)

 

[Anguz]

Solenoid in right way round ? Some are pilot operated and do strange things if backwards

 

[m_c]

Is the current equal between the two when the heating is on? Possibly some elements are u/s not generating enough heat?

I think the issue with altering the timer to a smaller setting means the heater will also come on for less time, the two work together, or at least it seems that way.

I think the current measuring device only comes into play of it draws more current than normal (don’t really know for sure that’s just a guess), and not in normal operation. But you could take that out of circuit completely to eliminate it. (Or swap it as you plan to anyway)

I've just had a proper look at the wiring diagram.

It looks like the heater elements are disconnected when the timer/solenoid is active.
Heater contactor 4K3, is controlled via NC contacts on the timer controlled contactor/relay 4K5, while the Solenoid is controlled by NO contacts on 4K5.

And the current sensing disconnects the power to the timer.

My guess is current sensing is used to determine if the heating elements are drawing high current aka heating up (Does the current draw on the heating elements reduce as they warm up, or do they have an inbuilt thermostat?), and disables the timer until the heating elements are at temperature, so water isn't injected when the heating plate is cold.

 

[daleyd]

I've just had a proper look at the wiring diagram.

It looks like the heater elements are disconnected when the timer/solenoid is active.
Heater contactor 4K3, is controlled via NC contacts on the timer controlled contactor/relay 4K5, while the Solenoid is controlled by NO contacts on 4K5.

And the current sensing disconnects the power to the timer.

My guess is current sensing is used to determine if the heating elements are drawing high current aka heating up (Does the current draw on the heating elements reduce as they warm up, or do they have an inbuilt thermostat?), and disables the timer until the heating elements are at temperature, so water isn't injected when the heating plate is cold.

That’s a good shout on the current sensing (or whatever it’s sensing) - I’d assumed it was a protection device, but maybe not. I thought the link that sets the timer off initially (a1-y1) would energise heaters first but perhaps there’s an additional interlock