Paul.
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One of these, just stick it on the ceramic and pull the trigger.
http://www.weldequip.com/gas-flow-tester.htm
http://www.weldequip.com/gas-flow-tester.htm
- Thread starter scottmk1
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wheresmejumper
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you still need to check every area/seal where gas could escape.the flow meter wont show up a small leak
brianblock
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up and down slope is not a factor as your on a foot pedal right?
Whats your pulse current on? it either needs to be on 0 or above the base current
Whats your pulse current on? it either needs to be on 0 or above the base current
Wendelspanswick
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I have the same welder, what size ceramic are you using, the ones that come with the kit are on the small size, try a no.8, or at least a no.7.
The reg that comes with the kit is c@&p, mine shows 0 LPM when my added flow gauge shows 6 LPM. If yours is the same and if your reg is showing 8 LPM chances are its a lot higher creating a 'blast' drawing in the surrounding air.
Are you definitely using pure Argon and not Argon mix?
If your aluminium is new and cleaned with a stainless wire brush you can turn the balance to the 10 o clock position, this preserves the point on the tungsten.
You can ignore all the pulse and slope settings if you are using the pedal.
I use Zirconiated Tungstens, identifiable by the grey band.
The reg that comes with the kit is c@&p, mine shows 0 LPM when my added flow gauge shows 6 LPM. If yours is the same and if your reg is showing 8 LPM chances are its a lot higher creating a 'blast' drawing in the surrounding air.
Are you definitely using pure Argon and not Argon mix?
If your aluminium is new and cleaned with a stainless wire brush you can turn the balance to the 10 o clock position, this preserves the point on the tungsten.
You can ignore all the pulse and slope settings if you are using the pedal.
I use Zirconiated Tungstens, identifiable by the grey band.
scottmk1
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Hi, the gas is deffo pure Argon, its a Hobbyweld bottle. I have a separate flow meter to the one supplied with the welder like this one: http://www.weldequip.com/flowmeter.htm
Cant remember the size of the ceramic but will check and see if I can go bigger.
Cant remember the size of the ceramic but will check and see if I can go bigger.
Changing ceramic size or tungsten flavour (grey is ceriated, zirconiated is white in Europe, orange and brown in the US[/pedantic]) ain't gonna fix that. As said you've got a gas problem* and (wrong gas/no gas aside) the usual suspects include an incorrectly assembled torch (collet in backwards is fairly popular), dodgy backcap O ring which draws air in kinda like a venturi and, less likely, a dodgy connection including inside the machine to the gas solenoid. None of these will show up as a leak unless the gas solenoid is active and the gas flowing. A leak before the gas line enters the machine would have to massive to hear... the system should hold pressure for a good few hours i.e. if you can watch the reg gauges fall with the machine off then the leak is before the machine. Find it with leak detection fluid or soapy water (the later is not to be used if leak testing oxygen)
* One that's come up before is an Rtech with an AC/DC switch that didn't do anything
but the blackened (oxidised) tungsten makes gas more likely. The arc is audibly different in AC (buzzing with the pitch related to AC frequency rather than silent like with DC) right? Yep, torch -ve, return +ve is correct
* One that's come up before is an Rtech with an AC/DC switch that didn't do anything
but the blackened (oxidised) tungsten makes gas more likely. The arc is audibly different in AC (buzzing with the pitch related to AC frequency rather than silent like with DC) right? Yep, torch -ve, return +ve is correctAh! Its a 2 minute job to braze. If you were local I would do it for you.
brianblock
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You can braze with Tig cant you?
julieanncharters
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set yourself a fair challenge there m8 with limited experience.
not an easy job with such thin pipe .
hope you sort yer weld probs,would deffo do plenty of dummy runs before going for it.
shame to scrap the job ,fit up looks really good.
not an easy job with such thin pipe .
hope you sort yer weld probs,would deffo do plenty of dummy runs before going for it.
shame to scrap the job ,fit up looks really good.
'Alloy' isn't an abbreviation for aluminium, vast majority of metals are alloyed to make them more useful and many have been named as they're so common. Steel is an alloy of iron + carbon for example while brasses/bronzes are 'families' of copper alloys[/pedantic]
The brazing rods in the link ain't gonna work so well on aluminium or its alloys, for one thing they have a melting point around 300° higher than that of Al
4047 is a eutectic alloy of aluminium + around 12% silicon. It has a melting point of 585°C (pure ali 660C, 4043 which is 5% Si around 635C) and can be used for both brazing and welding- the difference is basically whether you melt the base metal or not
The brazing rods in the link ain't gonna work so well on aluminium or its alloys, for one thing they have a melting point around 300° higher than that of Al
4047 is a eutectic alloy of aluminium + around 12% silicon. It has a melting point of 585°C (pure ali 660C, 4043 which is 5% Si around 635C) and can be used for both brazing and welding- the difference is basically whether you melt the base metal or not
