tig stainless heat tint +penetration

[Paul.]

Seeing as the poll has no purpose I've removed it, as for heat tint competitions, what a waste of time, weld characteristics like correct profile, lack of undercut and porosity and inclusions are what I look for in a weld, is this connected to motor sport welding by any chance?.

 

[Welderpaul]

Hollywood welders

 

[Richard.]

Seeing as the poll has no purpose I've removed it, as for heat tint competitions, what a waste of time, weld characteristics like correct profile, lack of undercut and porosity and inclusions are what I look for in a weld, is this connected to motor sport welding by any chance?.

Got to be motor sport.
That's the only industry people pay for purple

 

[Tiggy_dorset]

I voted 100, who was the only other person to vote?

I was the first voter. After I voted though, I started to think maybe I should have voted for 100 instead.

 

[Richard.]

I was the first voter. After I voted though, I started to think maybe I should have voted for 100 instead.

I couldn't make my mind up between the two as they both looked good so I thought best not to vote this time.

 

[Maker]

I couldn't make my mind up between the two as they both looked good so I thought best not to vote this time.

It was a tough decision but 100 just came out on top for me.

 

[Richard.]

It was a tough decision but 100 just came out on top for me.

Why though. Did you not see the benefits of going 100 instead

 

[Tiggy_dorset]

Thing is...if you go the 100 route, you could end up spending a passionate night with a beautiful woman.
BUT
Choosing 100 instead, could result in being able to produce a weld akin to being classed as 'weld porn'

..... difficult choice

 

[Maker]

Why though. Did you not see the benefits of going 100 instead

I chose 100 because it has pulse functionality with AC which I'm unlikely to need but it's there if I do. There's also a 100 dealer not too far from me so it wouldn't be too much bother if it broke, but I doubt such a nice brand would.
100 on the other hand is cheaper but I think 100 is worth the extra expense.

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Back to the question at hand, the general concesus of those that know is that marking a stainless weld on its colour tint is ridiculous. aim for a nice uniform colour, with nice uniform ripples (stack of dimes as our yank friends like to call it) and a nice bead profile with adequate penetration. Leave colours for the idiots that will pay thru the nose because an exhaust manifold has purple welds , when in reality after a few decent hear cycles it's going to be all kinds of crazy!

 

[J.B. Welding]

I saw a video a while back, the best welder in the world competition. The challenge was to weld up a thing shaped like a wood burner, with a 100mm pipe coming out then back in using weld elbows. The plate was all 25mm and ultra clean and it was all tacked up for fillet joints on the corners. There was a choice of tig mig MMA and there was no time limit. There was a pressure test at the end to 100 psi. The winner turned out to be the only guy that passed the pressure test! I recon on the day you just get in the zone and hit it nice and steady. A few wee tig runs will take 100psi easy then its all just eye candy.

 

[AndersK]

Here's a fitting just welded
316 ss fitting to 1,5 mm sheet

Approx 25-35 amps pedal set to 50 A max.

Gas flow 7 lpm. Back purging it so that will help cooling as well.

5 s post flow.

1 mm tungsten and 1 mm 316 filler
Smaller filler makes it easier to keep heat input low

Goes from shiny to gold to purple

 

[langy]

Can't see it winning a competition

 

[Boss]

Not a welder as a profession but I got this by trying to avoid the grey colouring, no idea on how to make it do it though. all I did was turn my amps up a little and move quicker. Not the best example in the world especially as the stop start is so visible but it penetrated ok.

Using a POS maxtra WSE200 and a toxic #14 cup, set on the "easy tiger" setting ( I dont have numbers on the amp nob so I Put my own marks on and named them)

 

[jamrobo]

Few pics of progress, including inside vessel pentration

 

[Maker]

Please don't take this the wrong way, I'm trying to be constructive; They are nice welds but I can't see them winning a competition , in the second photo, the toe of the weld isn't very straight (not a consistent width) and you've burnt thought at the end. In the last photo, the penetration isn't consistent, in some places not even right through.

 

[Richard.]

Exactly maker I couldn't agree more. If the op stopped worrying about pretty colours and concentrate the effort on the valid points you've just made then he would stand more chance of producing winning welds. Colours are corrosive oxides and should in most cases be removed any way

 

[Paul.]

They are probably as good as you would find in most general applications, I wouldn't be too critical of the appearance, probably not prize winners though, a bit of pickling paste or a wire brush will do them the power of good, which is exactly what these nice purple ones will get when I've finished welding the rest of them.

 

[Richard.]

Exactly. In most cases It's got to be removed or it defeats the object. Exhausts I would not bother with mind. As a good thrashing On the rpm will only bring heat tint back into it Again.

 

[Maker]

Keep practising until the welds are perfect, then put pickling paste on it and present it with no "pretty" oxides on, you'll win the competition because you'll be the only one there clever enough to know the oxides shouldn't be present.