those heat shrink crimps with solder inside...yes or no

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

We have big troubles with both the crimp/shrink type and the solder/ melt versions making the wire to rigid, which the fails close to the connector.
Mainly door looms in the rubber convoluted bit and where the loom leaves the chassis and goes up to the cab.

They should never be used in situations were they are subjected to in restrained movement. As, like all, joints more rigid than the cables.

In the past when I have repaired the loom in French MPV cars. I cut out the cable completely, in the bend, were it was broken. Then made the repair in the tail gate and the car.
Yes it uses 2 crimps, more cable and more time. But it never failed.

 

[Pete.]

If you put those things in the door hinge loom you're asking for trouble TBH. If you absolutely had to use them then you could splice in a section with a pair and leave the joins either side of the bending part.

 

[MCKDAVID]

soldered versus crimped joint -- good luck getting everyone to agree with the "which is best"... there's an argument that'll run on forever..

Horses for courses, some applications they may be perfect, for some it's bad, for some it's a fail waiting to happen. Same as any connections, they all have their applications. In most cases crimps are very reliable, if decent quality and done properly, sadly a lot (most) aren't, using poor quality crimps, and crap crimpers (or worse pliers...) hence failures. The same way soldered joints are excellent too, but more likely to be done badly, on old and corroded wires, don't like vibration or bending..... again they fail too. Industrial electrical panels are wired with all crimped end connectors and are fine, electronics are all soldered, again fine. Both have their strengths..

For me, the question isn't which is best, it's which is best in whatever application. One type doesn't do everything perfectly, crimps are better in some cases, and soldered in others... It's that requirement (flexibility, corrosion, routing, water ingress, internal or external etc) that defines the choice of joint for me... I've done thousands of each, soldered and crimped, and in my experience it's the correct choice and how well they're done that determines the success..

However, as the argument has run for decades already, I doubt this will change anything..... With regard to the original post, I've used these a couple of times, and while they worked i wasn't particularly impressed. If I'm doing a soldered joint, I prefer to do it the older slower way with solder, and heat shrink, so I can check the joint and then heat shrink over the top. Again, that may be just because of my OCD, and not a reflection on the capability of the joint.

 

[Trevorleach]

They should never be used in situations were they are subjected to in restrained movement. As, like all, joints more rigid than the cables.

In the past when I have repaired the loom in French MPV cars. I cut out the cable completely, in the bend, were it was broken. Then made the repair in the tail gate and the car.
Yes it uses 2 crimps, more cable and more time. But it never failed.

I do the same ie new cable for that bit with two crimps, but not all blokes do, and we have to do it again and again, sadly space is limited and to do it properly it is a massive strip down to gain access to the bit of the loom that does not bend/move, we also have the problem with the cables age hardening and believe it or not the vehicles are 65/66 plates.

 

[Trevorleach]

soldered versus crimped joint -- good luck getting everyone to agree with the "which is best"... there's an argument that'll run on forever..

Horses for courses, some applications they may be perfect, for some it's bad, for some it's a fail waiting to happen. Same as any connections, they all have their applications. In most cases crimps are very reliable, if decent quality and done properly, sadly a lot (most) aren't, using poor quality crimps, and crap crimpers (or worse pliers...) hence failures. The same way soldered joints are excellent too, but more likely to be done badly, on old and corroded wires, don't like vibration or bending..... again they fail too. Industrial electrical panels are wired with all crimped end connectors and are fine, electronics are all soldered, again fine. Both have their strengths..

For me, the question isn't which is best, it's which is best in whatever application. One type doesn't do everything perfectly, crimps are better in some cases, and soldered in others... It's that requirement (flexibility, corrosion, routing, water ingress, internal or external etc) that defines the choice of joint for me... I've done thousands of each, soldered and crimped, and in my experience it's the correct choice and how well they're done that determines the success..

However, as the argument has run for decades already, I doubt this will change anything..... With regard to the original post, I've used these a couple of times, and while they worked i wasn't particularly impressed. If I'm doing a soldered joint, I prefer to do it the older slower way with solder, and heat shrink, so I can check the joint and then heat shrink over the top. Again, that may be just because of my OCD, and not a reflection on the capability of the joint.

Lots of the vehicles makers say use shrink crimps rather than solder as they say they are more reliable joints, but I suspect this is down to time/money, plus of course not a lot of people these days know how to solder or more importantly know what a dry joint is.