Thinwall 10mm socket or nut driver required.

[ajlelectronics]

I have just done a very traumatic bottom end job on my Cologne 2.9i. There is only a tiny clearance between the sump and the gearbox (one piece) shield, but I struggled for some time to insert and nip up the 10mm fixings in the sump flange. It now appears that I have dislodged the rear sump seal part of the gasket (dripping oil) and so the sump needs to come off again, when I can face it.

Using a 1/4" drive 10mm socket, it was very difficult to manoeuvre it into place and the socket kept coming off the extension; very irritating so I am looking for a better tool for the purpose. Suggestions are welcome, possibly a nut driver on 6" stem? Ideally with a thin wall.

 

[Seadog]

A box spanner, perhaps?

 

[ajlelectronics]

A box spanner, perhaps?

Interesting, but this is the deepest part of the sump, so needs to be driven from below it. I didn't measure it, but I was using two extension bars from the ratchet.

 

[Dapph2]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ColumPRO-Magnetic-Extension-Screwdriver-Extender/dp/B0DC6CWCG1/ref=asc_df_B0DC6CWCG1?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333275001165&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=69174&hvtargid=pla-4583932739013133&msclkid=7da6754d6ce7186fc8ce1c79394c53ab&th=1

Could this pair of long magnetic extension be what you need , with an adapter for the socker .? I have a 400mm long 1/4" flexi drive too which has saved me a lot of grief as the ball bearing docket locator is quite strong and with the sockets having a corresponding grove it's just a casde of locating both in the same plane and pushing them together.

You can always cut one of th longer extensions down to a shorter length and perhaps use a flexible drive locked in ratchet.

My 6 month old ( cheap TEMU ???) Chinese socket set has a 1/4" ratchet that has a lock to the socket or extension device in the middle of the ratchets head.
Tiny super magnets in the sockets keep the socket held to the extension bar . Same goes for the flexible extension and the tiny universal joint in the set.

 

[Melvyn Best]

Use a longer extension? Might be easier to remove the gearbox , that way you’ll have better access with less chance of dislodging the seal?

 

[Agroshield]

What are the fasteners you are turning? Nuts on studs or bolts? A nut needs some depth in the socket to accept the projecting stud.

Insulation tape will hold the socket to the extension.

You can buy 10mm 1/4" hex nut drivers (for bolts only)

Gdfnmogo 10mm Magnetic Nut Driver Set 5pcs Chrome-Vanadium Steel Hex Socket Wrench Adapter Bits with 1/4 Inch Quick Release Shank Compatible with Power Drills : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop Gdfnmogo 10mm Magnetic Nut Driver Set 5pcs Chrome-Vanadium Steel Hex Socket Wrench Adapter Bits with 1/4 Inch Quick Release Shank Compatible with Power Drills.

www.amazon.co.uk

They are cheap enough to make thin wall by spinning in a drill and applying a grinder.

 

[Brad93]

10mm ¼" hex bit and long ¼" hex locking extension from Milwaukee

 

[MetalMonkey]

Have a look at the Koken Zeal range of socketry. It is some of the thinnest, low profile and highest quality stuff out there.
Range of options out there from nut grip sockets, locking extensions all sorts.

 

[tom2207]

allen cap bolt or a flange head bolt and an 8mm socket .

 

[6ply]

I have just done a very traumatic bottom end job on my Cologne 2.9i. There is only a tiny clearance between the sump and the gearbox (one piece) shield, but I struggled for some time to insert and nip up the 10mm fixings in the sump flange. It now appears that I have dislodged the rear sump seal part of the gasket (dripping oil) and so the sump needs to come off again, when I can face it.

Using a 1/4" drive 10mm socket, it was very difficult to manoeuvre it into place and the socket kept coming off the extension; very irritating so I am looking for a better tool for the purpose. Suggestions are welcome, possibly a nut driver on 6" stem? Ideally with a thin wall.

If wall thickness is the main problem, can't you grind an old socket down for this one off job?

 

[Dapph2]

Have a look at the Koken Zeal range of socketry. It is some of the thinnest, low profile and highest quality stuff out there.
Range of options out there from nut grip sockets, locking extensions all sorts.

WOW!... It comes down to which is worth the most the socket set or the engine .

 

[ajlelectronics]

There are some very useful suggestions there for me to consider, thank you all kindly.

My preference is for the Allen head screws for the awkward places, either side of the front and rear seals. The one fly in that ointment is that there are a couple of studs too which are for gasket location. However, it may well be a step forward.

This would all be easy with engine separated and upside down, but I really didn't want to do that in my state of health and working outside.

I have the Scorpio on the lift now, which has the same power plant so if I remember, I will try to take some photos. I may even do a write up on the whole job, which achieved nothing bar the oil leak!

 

[ajlelectronics]

What are the fasteners you are turning? Nuts on studs or bolts? A nut needs some depth in the socket to accept the projecting stud.

Mostly set screws plus half a dozen nuts on studs.

 

[JOEPRO]

Sealey premier black series sockets gave thin walls. You can get small rail sets

 

[ajlelectronics]

Use a longer extension? Might be easier to remove the gearbox , that way you’ll have better access with less chance of dislodging the seal?

On my own, that isn't an option although it makes perfect sense.

 

[Melvyn Best]

On my own, that isn't an option although it makes perfect sense.

I’m 73 I would remove the gearbox. Sometimes it’s easier to go the lng way round the job

 

[MetalMonkey]

WOW!... It comes down to which is worth the most the socket set or the engine .

It's a ford... so definitely the sockets!

 

[ajlelectronics]

I’m 73 I would remove the gearbox. Sometimes it’s easier to go the lng way round the job

Not that simple in a Scimitar. The top bellhousing bolts are very hard to get to, so it's best removed as a unit.

 

[jsf55]

Tube nuts ? save having too got all the way in