Thin stuff

[norlander]

This is a post that might help Sparky-I didn't want to tack it on (geddit?) to her thread about leccy shox in case it bumped the thread, and also, some of the more experienced boys might offer up some good points when they clock the title.

Laywire thins stuff not shown in vid, but I have used it some times of thin stuff as my travel speed skill with dipping filler is pants.

No filler- used this on thin stuff as well, works well on stainless

fit up has to be spot on, no gaps wotsoever, and you may have to make lil circular movements with the torch sometimes, but it can work well.
And wear flippin gloves!!!!!!!

 

[Richard.]

Ime the really key things to welding very thin material is as you say fit up and equally as important is how tight you get your arc along with a perfectly prepped narrow point on the electrode. Those last two points done well equate to arc focus which is crucial on really thin gaged joints.

 

[norlander]

I forgot to mention backing the joint can help, copper for stainless and Mild steel, stainless backing works better for me for Ali-learnt that one from Uncle Jody.

 

[Rrunnach]

To add to what has already been said. If tig plant has pulse facility, use it. If not, and has slope in and out, this can help too, when welding thin stuff.

 

[Sparkey]

To add to what has already been said. If tig plant has pulse facility, use it. If not, and has slope in and out, this can help too, when welding thin stuff.

Slainte noo Terrrr how'r you? well i don't know if the Fronius kit has down slope...but actually that's what you do with the pedal right? Ah it's difficult to learn i sometimes feel like throwing stuff around when i make another hole!!! good thing i'm quite stubborn i will get this done!!! It looks so easy when you see someone else doing it...but you coulden't be more wrong haha and the tricky part is they want us to start the weld at the beginning of the joint without eating away the material (if that makes sense?)

 

[Rrunnach]

Slainte noo Terrrr how'r you? well i don't know if the Fronius kit has down slope...but actually that's what you do with the pedal right? Ah it's difficult to learn i sometimes feel like throwing stuff around when i make another hole!!! good thing i'm quite stubborn i will get this done!!! It looks so easy when you see someone else doing it...but you coulden't be more wrong haha and the tricky part is they want us to start the weld at the beginning of the joint without eating away the material (if that makes sense?)

All good here, lass. Living the dream....lol. Yes, slope in/out are functions that can be achieved with foot pedal, the pedal being far better responsive. If Fronious is an inverter, I would imagine it has all the bells and whistles installed, including pulse, what model is it, also, what material are you welding, what thickness?

Not something I have had to do when tig welding, maybe a run on, run off, plate can be added to joint, at least until you get to grips with tig process.

As for stubborn, all down to being a woman

 

[Rrunnach]

All good here, lass. Living the dream....lol. Yes, slope in/out are functions that can be achieved with foot pedal, the pedal being far better responsive. If Fronious is an inverter, I would imagine it has all the bells and whistles installed, including pulse, what model is it, also, what material are you welding, what thickness?

Not something I have had to do when tig welding, maybe a run on, run off, plate can be added to joint, at least until you get to grips with tig process.

As for stubborn, all down to being a woman

Bonsoir again, Sparky lass. I viewed a previous post from you, type of plant you are using, see link below. If correct, there is a "pulse" function, I would certainly be using this facility, especially when you are at the beginner stage. Ask Herr Flick, about this funtion, ask him to set the parametors to material type and thickness you are welding. What type joint you putting together?

http://www.fronius.com/cps/rde/xbcr...nsTig1750Puls_01_2013_low_212557_snapshot.pdf

 

[Richard.]

Pulsing does help with thin gaged material but I rarely use it tbh.
A full length outside corner on sub 1mm SS would be 1 of those instances perhaps.
The Fronius will almost certainly have down slope but they are a bit stingy on the trans tig models. As far as I know it's the "job" models only that offer the pulse features. It's one of the best pulses around mind if you have the job model. 0.1-2000hz on tap. Crank it up to 200hz plus. Any thing lower is just for the show players to elaborate there dimes.

 

[Rrunnach]

Oops, posted wrong link.......sorry. Correct link below.

http://www.westermans.com/downloads/tt 1700 brochure.pdf

A bit confusing, but I think according to spec, pulse is an option?

 

[Richard.]

Yeah that's the one she has Rrunnach I think.
They are able to pulse but you need one of these.
Very expensive and obsolete now. I had one on my old magicwave. Best pulse features I've come across. My Rehm's pulse doesn't compare to that remotes extensive adjustment control and neither did my mls.
Most of the older Fronius's don't pulse without the remote. They were like German cars. Everything is an expensive extra. Even the remote cables were sold separately.

 

[Sparkey]

Nah it's a Fro transtig 1600, and i don't have that boxy thinghy....
But today went better already...welding with 50 amps untill i get better it's a stainless steel flat joint no overlap at all, material is about 1 mm thick....trickiest part is when there's a small gap between the parts

 

[Appyasme1]

Yeah that's the one she has Rrunnach I think.
They are able to pulse but you need one of these.
Very expensive and obsolete now. I had one on my old magicwave. Best pulse features I've come across. My Rehm's pulse doesn't compare to that remotes extensive adjustment control and neither did my mls.
Most of the older Fronius's don't pulse without the remote. They were like German cars. Everything is an expensive extra. Even the remote cables were sold separately.

You make me feel really old now.I can go back to the Kemppi LP3,with the LHF 3 TIG unit offshore

 

[Rrunnach]

Nah it's a Fro transtig 1600, and i don't have that boxy thinghy....
But today went better already...welding with 50 amps untill i get better it's a stainless steel flat joint no overlap at all, material is about 1 mm thick....trickiest part is when there's a small gap between the parts

Stainless behaves like that, small gap, get the wire in, lovely stuff to weld, though!

 

[Richard.]

Nah it's a Fro transtig 1600, and i don't have that boxy thinghy....
But today went better already...welding with 50 amps untill i get better it's a stainless steel flat joint no overlap at all, material is about 1 mm thick....trickiest part is when there's a small gap between the parts

The boxy thing is an optional extra that will make your fro trans tig 1600 pulse weld as fast as you like. It plugs into the 10 pin socket where your pedal plugs in then you plug the pedal in the remote.

 

[Richard.]

trickiest part is when there's a small gap between the parts

Yes fit up at those thin gages needs to be tight or you might make a mess of it as you know.
RRunnach is right stainless is a super material to tig weld and when it's right the results are stunning.
It's not a tolerant material though.
It distorts so badly if not fitted clamped and welded in the right way. It's all too easy to weld it too hot and cook the alloys out of it.
Anything full pen needs underside protection against coking whether that be tightly fitted bars or a purge. It requires good tools and skill to work, bend, cut, machine and drill given its work hardening properties.
All that aside though I do enjoy working with it.