Thick to thin

[BrokenBiker]

just checking my method is correct before having a go as I only have one practice piece then onto the real thing and don't wanna mess it up

Right, have some 8mm thick flat bar and need to weld some 40mm tube to it, 3mm wall at a right angle.

Would I be right in thinking of using a 3.2mm rod at about 110-120 amps and favouring the flat bar with the arc?

Wanna do it In one pass if possible, it's for a set of rock sliders for a mates Jimmy

 

[Woody.v8]

That's about the size of it.

 

[BrokenBiker]

That's about the size of it.

Good...I haven't totally forgotten everything lol.

Haven't touched the welder for ages, ran some beads this morning that look ok and good penetration.

Waiting on the car to come back from having new springs and shocks to start measuring up.

 

[123hotchef]

don't forget the pics

 

[BrokenBiker]

Pics are a must...hoping to get a bit more work if these turn out alright...he is part of the local 4x4 club and they always want stuff made apparently

 

[wheresmejumper]

I would use a 2.5 rod

 

[BrokenBiker]

I would use a 2.5 rod

i need it to really bite into the 8mm flat bar...the bar is going to be bolted to the chassis with a backing plate behind it and is going to be the only part that connects the sliders to the car...there will be 2 tubes welded to the flat bar and the actual sliders will be welded to the outer ends of the tubes so they will be 'floating' so the welds into the 8mm have to be as strong as possible.

 

[BrokenBiker]

similar to this but without the 'U' bit, he wants them bolted on through the chassis with a backer as he has seen some high end units with the same method of mounting...i wanted to just weld them to the chassis as he is going to write it off before he even thinks about selling it and it dont need mot as its off road only

 

[Jim Davey]

I'd use a low hydrogen 2.5 but it's doable on a 3.25 6031 or lo-hy

 

[BrokenBiker]

I'd use a low hydrogen 2.5 but it's doable on a 3.25 6031 or lo-hy

i havent got lo-hi's so stuck with 6013 which is why i dont want to use a 2.5 as it will barely nip it i think.

 

[Woody.v8]

2.5s would be plenty for that, just slow down the travel speed a bit to build the weld up.
In saying that 3.2s will be ok too.
I think 6013s will be well up to the job considering the material used and the application.
Looking at the pics it can't be any worse, as the weld on the open bracket appears to have been flicked on with a spoon.

 

[BrokenBiker]

2.5s would be plenty for that, just slow down the travel speed a bit to build the weld up.
In saying that 3.2s will be ok too.
I think 6013s will be well up to the job considering the material used and the application.
Looking at the pics it can't be any worse, as the weld on the open bracket appears to have been flicked on with a spoon.

i chose 3.2 as i know i can get ok penetration with them into the 8mm, the 2.5 might be a struggle. the picture is just a random off google, i wouldnt put that on anything that would be relying on it for protection lol

 

[123hotchef]

similar to this but without the 'U' bit, he wants them bolted on through the chassis with a backer as he has seen some high end units with the same method of mounting...i wanted to just weld them to the chassis as he is going to write it off before he even thinks about selling it and it dont need mot as its off road only

View attachment 80604

I would weld them to the chassis too if it were me

 

[BrokenBiker]

I would weld them to the chassis too if it were me

i would have even if it were a road car too...

 

[123hotchef]

I welded my ones on my truck its my daily driver protects the doors from car park dings too

 

[wheresmejumper]

You will find it easier to get optimum penetration in both pieces with a 2.5 rod.you can weld 25mm plate with 2.5 rods and get plenty penetration.3.2 rods take a lot more skill to adequately penetrate the 8mm and not overheat the tube.

 

[decepticon]

It's a perfect job for a 2.5 6013, can be done with any rods that have been mentioned though, use what you have and what you like to run. Don't get too hung up about penetration

Pics needed pls

 

[Tinbasherdan]

I've built them for defenders before now and always use fincord m in 2.5mm , 3.2 is entirely overkill for that job

 

[Woody.v8]

As said use what you're used to, I "could" do that job with a 2-4 mm electrode and make a nice job,use whatever your comfortable with.

 

[MattF]

similar to this but without the 'U' bit, he wants them bolted on through the chassis with a backer as he has seen some high end units with the same method of mounting...i wanted to just weld them to the chassis as he is going to write it off before he even thinks about selling it and it dont need mot as its off road only

If they were welded on, it could cause some fair old chassis damage if subjected to a good whack, especially if done poorly. Bolted is preferable. Make sure you make some spacer sleeves to slide over the bolts too, to go inside the chassis rails, between the plates. It's to prevent the chassis rail being pinched/crushed when you tighten the bolts. The hole through the rear of the chassis member should allow just enough clearance for the bolt. The hole in the front of the chassis member needs to be slightly larger to allow clearance for the sleeve to be inserted.