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The female of the species is more smelly than the male.
- Thread starter fizzy
- Start date
I can weld away, run a car engine, get oil too hot, burn stuff in the oven, and not even a tickle in the throat . . .
Other half sprays something on herself to smell different . . . chest tightens, cough starts, feel short of breath . . . she thinks I'm taking the mick . . .
Lol I am the same there. Lynx deodorants really set me off.
not done it yet
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The one and only thing that the ‘supposed best’ come out ‘best’ is that 100% of the heat energy produced goes into the area to be warmed.
For me, they fail miserably on several counts.
My workshop is well draught-proofed, so It would soon be making CO (OK it might well trip, but that is no good to me).
My workshop is heavily insulated (at least 100mm and much more on most) so does not need a lot of heat for very long (I don’t manage too long in the workshop, these days, before needing a rest, anyway).
Lathe, mill and tooling need a sufficiently dry atmosphere to avoid any rust risk - which costs me leccy to maintain a low relative humidity, using a desiccator dehumidifier for a couple hours a night when needed.
It’s not that large a volume - only about 35 metres cubed, so any smells would soon build up - it’s bad enough when I use cutting oil - and there ain’t much floor space available.
The warm air is easily directed from a diesel air heater, via ducting, to where it might be needed - and it can be ducted downwards (rather than convecting directly to the ceiling).
The air heater can be placed outside the work area if necessary.
The above reasons are why there is no way I would buy one. Furthermore I realise the benefits of paying out for insulation and draught-proofing - rather than paying to heat the atmosphere - as it is obvious to me that my method is much cheaper in the fairly short term. My insulation also keeps the workshop cool in the summer (as long as I don’t forget to close the door during the hot days).
But this is for my situation - a relatively small volume for my metal working hobby. I bought nearly all my insulation for peanuts - a couple of quid (max) per roll of 150mm rockwool insulation, approx equivalent of 7 1/2 sheets of 100mm celotex for just over £50 and 4 whole sheets of 100mm Recticel for about £50. All from car boot, and auctions over a period of time. A large roll of aluminised bubble insulation (about 1.8m x 20m for about £25. The garage doors for the original structure cost nothing - only collection costs.
I once missed 8-10 full sheets of 100mm celotex at an auction - they sold for a tenner! So bargains are out there!
For me, they fail miserably on several counts.
My workshop is well draught-proofed, so It would soon be making CO (OK it might well trip, but that is no good to me).
My workshop is heavily insulated (at least 100mm and much more on most) so does not need a lot of heat for very long (I don’t manage too long in the workshop, these days, before needing a rest, anyway).
Lathe, mill and tooling need a sufficiently dry atmosphere to avoid any rust risk - which costs me leccy to maintain a low relative humidity, using a desiccator dehumidifier for a couple hours a night when needed.
It’s not that large a volume - only about 35 metres cubed, so any smells would soon build up - it’s bad enough when I use cutting oil - and there ain’t much floor space available.
The warm air is easily directed from a diesel air heater, via ducting, to where it might be needed - and it can be ducted downwards (rather than convecting directly to the ceiling).
The air heater can be placed outside the work area if necessary.
The above reasons are why there is no way I would buy one. Furthermore I realise the benefits of paying out for insulation and draught-proofing - rather than paying to heat the atmosphere - as it is obvious to me that my method is much cheaper in the fairly short term. My insulation also keeps the workshop cool in the summer (as long as I don’t forget to close the door during the hot days).
But this is for my situation - a relatively small volume for my metal working hobby. I bought nearly all my insulation for peanuts - a couple of quid (max) per roll of 150mm rockwool insulation, approx equivalent of 7 1/2 sheets of 100mm celotex for just over £50 and 4 whole sheets of 100mm Recticel for about £50. All from car boot, and auctions over a period of time. A large roll of aluminised bubble insulation (about 1.8m x 20m for about £25. The garage doors for the original structure cost nothing - only collection costs.
I once missed 8-10 full sheets of 100mm celotex at an auction - they sold for a tenner! So bargains are out there!
Walking through the airport duty free holding your breath???
redlig
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After reading all this " info" I've decided to wear another jumper and stamp my feet more often.I'm having great fun reading this tosh!
BS 2869 Class C1 versus C2 Kerosine. C1 for open fuelled appliances, C2 for externally ventilated appliances (and add a few more tests and it's Jet or AvTur if you're that old).
Whilst the sulphur content used to be the most obvious difference to the uniformed, the significant difference was the boiling range.
Class C1 has a much narrower permitted boiling range and a lower maximum boiling point. So it doesn't contain the higher molecular weight hydrocarbons and the narrower range means a simple wicked appliance can maintain the correct air-fuel ratio more consistently.
C1 has a lower Smoke Point limit. That old school test actually involves burning it in a standard wick device and is an indirect measure of aromatic content. This is also to ensure that a simple wicked appliance can maintain the correct air-fuel ratio more consistently.
One of our Authorised Distributors got heavily fined for selling Class C2 as Class C1 to uninformed buyers. They were subsequently encouraged to transfer to another supplier.
If you are patient it should be possible to adjust the appliance to burn without visible smoke when fuelled with C2, but it is likely to be fiddly and need frequent adjustment as the wick burns down. Smoke is easily visible and unburned hydrocarbons are easily smelled but I would be more concerned about avoiding CO generation in the short term and the PM2.5 and NOX levels long term.
Doesn't generate as much water? MoGas is predominately C6-11 (yes it has some C4/5/12) but can be characterised as C8 Octane.
Class C2 and Jet Kerosine is usually assumed to be C12-C15, but Class C1 is nearer C11-C13 and usually characterised as C12.
Do the good old O Level thing of writing out the equation and calculating molecular weights to check it all balances.
Do that and you will find that for 1 unit of mass of hydrocarbon the mass of water generated:
C5 1.500
C6 1.465
.
.
.
C12 1.376
Put another way if Mogas is your baseline the Class C1 Kero would generate about 3% more water and Class C2 about 4% more. I doubt if anyone would notice the difference.*
I'm with @Roger440 in only using open flued devices in greenhouses or draughty old sheds and when I'm not in it! Fortunately, I have neither.
See what you have done? You have triggered my OCD and reminded me of what I used to do for a living since dinosaurs ruled the earth back in 1970. Pity I dumped all the PowerPoint files I used to use when giving lectures on this stuff.
Keeps an old duffer occupied and amused whilst waiting for it to warm up enough to venture out into the garage.
*based on alkanes (paraffins or saturated straight-chain hydrocarbons) as aromatics levels in MoGas and C1 are lower with each update of specifications, so a reasonable simplification.
I leave the calculation of water generation with varying levels of aromatics as an exercise for the reader.
redlig
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pheromones ?The female of the species is more smelly than the male.
gaz1
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ive had issues with just about everything but due to smoking i decensitized enough for the building trade but yeah it still gets me on off days
ive had the same issues with other halfs often
hairspray and body spray sometimes theyve had to call for an ambulance its triggered so bad
the worst ones are the ones you pass on the street so laced with the stuff its taken my breath away making me splutter and cough so badly on the street
how do you tell them its them and there perfume thats causing it when you coughing and retching your lungs up so badly
Farside
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Unless they're exhausting their output via a flue going out through the wall, of course they're putting water into the room. Approx 1kg for every kg of fuel.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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Yes, just bought a couple of wool and silk tops in the Hanro Black Friday sale. They are just the best.*
*Just don't let the missus put them in the tumble drier!
Pete.
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That well insulated you could use a 60W light bulb!
Whoops they were banned
If the shop is that well insulated then just having a quick clean up and running the shop vac around the floor to get all the bits of swarf will make it comfortable. My Numatic puts out a lot of heat over 10 minutes. 10 minutes spent cleaning up not only warms the workshop but it warms me up too.
