You have to connect together the bigger wires
But if I did that then what would limit the current?You have to connect together the bigger wires
But check to be sure if those starts from the rectifier bridge to the IGBT to the output side .
Agreed I wouldn't recommend trying any output side bypassing, these circuits have lots of feedback and monitoring circuits going on, who knows what could happen.But if I did that then what would limit the current?
My fear of doing that would be the current would not be limited by anything and that would almost certainly damage the torch.
Continuity test cannot be done with voltage because the multimeter would protect itself and the userOk, I am at the workshop and have done some tests.
The resistance of the pot one is no use, must be something to do with the way the PCB interacts with it because as soon as I start the arc the reading on the meter goes from 4.9 k Ohm to overload on the M Ohm scale.
I am currently uploading the video of the thermister test, once uploaded I will post it.
I also did a Hz test with my meter but not even looked yet so not sure if that shows anything, I will update later once the first video has loaded to youtube.
That explains it, never thought about thatContinuity test cannot be done with voltage because the multimeter would protect itself and the user
That's normal you are not familiar with angry pixies , but that's also a good thing because you are scared about and less prone to operate unsafelyThat explains it, never thought about that
Resistance reading works by passing a little bit current through the probes, so if there is already voltage on the whatever you're probing, then it'll affect the reading.That explains it, never thought about that
I think that are probably connected using small faston connectorsA longer test waiting for it to stabilise would be a pain with the hand torch as it seems to be about 15 or 20 minutes of cutting before it stops dropping.
Yes, that is the next step when I get a chance, I have a new tube of thermal paste waiting
It will be a bit of a pain due to the way everything has been constructed but hopefully I can manage without having to separate too much.
I am also going to have a look at the connection of the wires under the silicon/glue as potentially it could be a dry joint or even a fractured wire there that is heating and increasing the resistance.
Are you taking the measurement on the return lead?Got a chance to remove the IGBT and clean and reseat on new thermal paste.
There is definitely a big difference but the current is still dropping. However after about 2 minutes of cutting the current had dropped just 3.5 amps or so and it was slower than previously.
Looks like it may well be the IGBT that is the issue so not sure whether to spend £120 on that and be able to sell at a much higher cost or just sell as is, will have to think about it for a while