Td5 Defender coolant leak

[Guineafowl]

Just done the clutch and pretty much all the brake lines.

Slight evidence of coolant about, so I pressurised the reservoir with my brake bleeder, and saw this:
LHS of engine, EM=exhaust manifold, CCB=crankcase breather thing, RF=rotary oil filter cap.

Looking just above, it seems to be this plug behind the exhaust manifold. Any pointers? Please tell me it’s not a core plug.

 

[Blobber]

 

[Guineafowl]

View attachment 402575

That did cross my mind. I’ve always tried to avoid using it in case it blocks little coolant passages in a more modern engine,

It may come to that.

Bloody power steering pump’s leaking as well, and I’m already battered from crawling about under it for days.

 

[James1979]

If you’re going down that road there’s a milspec one thats awesome.

I’ll find out what it is.

 

[Blobber]

The K seal I have used in the past is copper coloured one that doesnt supposedly set or block stuff up unless it finds a leak, had really good results with that and it lasted 6 years!

 

[James1979]

Here ya go.

Developed for the US Military and now in civilian life. I can personally say it works. I’ve used it a few times and always carry some on the truck.

There’s a video on gaztube of it curing in a block holed by gunfire somewhere

If you don’t want to do a rebuild just fire that in. It’ll last as long as you have the truck.

 

[tom2207]

its a core plug ,,, common enough
Id be bunging in the sealant and not worrying .

 

[Wozzaaah]

We have what I think is the same leak in ours! It's been in 3 times to try and find it, parts changed, still leaking.
No matter how long I run it for and watch it there's not so much as a hint of a leak but every morning there's a small pool of coolant under it.

 

[Guineafowl]

Here ya go.

Developed for the US Military and now in civilian life. I can personally say it works. I’ve used it a few times and always carry some on the truck.

There’s a video on gaztube of it curing in a block holed by gunfire somewhere

If you don’t want to do a rebuild just fire that in. It’ll last as long as you have the truck.

Ta, but can’t see a link/name there.

We have what I think is the same leak in ours! It's been in 3 times to try and find it, parts changed, still leaking.
No matter how long I run it for and watch it there's not so much as a hint of a leak but every morning there's a small pool of coolant under it.

Found mine with engine cold, coolant tank pressurised at 14psi using tyre. The Gunson EZbleed set fits the cap. It must be sealing as the engine warms up, as I’m losing hardly any coolant.

 

[James1979]

Sorry. No idea why the link didn’t paste.

Try this

Domain parking page

www.motorshop1.co.uk

 

[blackolive (Ste)]

Its a threaded core plug. Quite common.

 

[Guineafowl]

Sorry. No idea why the link didn’t paste.

Try this

Domain parking page

www.motorshop1.co.uk

Thanks. I’ll try to do it ’properly’ first, but keep that as an option if things don’t go to plan.

 

[Ubique]

Just be careful using Sodium Silicate in some versions of OAT and all IAT, it's not compatible and can make things worse if your engine isn't specified to use Si-OAT coolant. Also bear in mind OAT coolants have a life of 10-12 years so you'll need to add the leak sealant back in when you change the coolant.

 

[Guineafowl]

It appears to be LCM100170

£14 for the genuine part so worth buying. I’ll get some more oxypropane stuff and have at the turbo/exhaust bolts at some point.

 

[Guineafowl]

Just be careful using Sodium Silicate in some versions of OAT, it's not compatible and can make things worse if your engine isn't specified to use Si-OAT coolant. Also bear in mind all OAT coolants have a maximum life of 10 years so you'll need to add the leak sealant back in when you change the coolant.

It gets new coolant and brake fluid every three years. Worth looking after.

 

[Ubique]

If you're using the standard LR 'Orange' coolant, you'll be fine - be careful of using too strong a mix, it has quite a high Ph and can accelerate corrosion. The OAT guidance was 'in general', your specific engine won't have any issues..
Clean the threads well and use a good quality thread sealant, we used liquid PTFE when I used to do these regularly, never had any issues getting a good seal first time and no repeat repairs - just let it harden for a couple of hours before refilling. Brake fluid is recommended to be changed every two years by most manufacturers.

 

[tom2207]

It gets new coolant and brake fluid every three years. Worth looking after.

add acf 50 to the shopping list too then ...

 

[tom2207]

If you're using the standard LR 'Orange' coolant, you'll be fine - be careful of using too strong a mix, it has quite a high Ph and can accelerate corrosion. The OAT guidance was 'in general', your specific engine won't have any issues..
Clean the threads well and use a good quality thread sealant, we used liquid PTFE when I used to do these regularly, never had any issues getting a good seal first time and no repeat repairs - just let it harden for a couple of hours before refilling. Brake fluid is recommended to be changed every two years by most manufacturers.

I use Stag .. Im getting old I think ,,, and the tin I have is thirty years old. , even worse , it was old when I got it given.

 

[Bobupndown]

Ta, but can’t see a link/name there.

Found mine with engine cold, coolant tank pressurised at 14psi using tyre. The Gunson EZbleed set fits the cap. It must be sealing as the engine warms up, as I’m losing hardly any coolant.

Top tip for the gunson, never heard of that before but good to know.

It appears to be LCM100170
View attachment 402601
View attachment 402602


£14 for the genuine part so worth buying. I’ll get some more oxypropane stuff and have at the turbo/exhaust bolts at some point.

Oh no the dreaded Td5 exhaust manifolds studs. I had 2 exhaust manifolds warp and break studs on mine. Uprated studs from JD Engineering and a pre warped but machined flat manifold cured it finally (before the cylinder head cracked - never bored with a Landrover)

 

[tom2207]

Top tip for the gunson, never heard of that before but good to know.

Oh no the dreaded Td5 exhaust manifolds studs. I had 2 exhaust manifolds warp and break studs on mine. Uprated studs from JD Engineering and a pre warped but machined flat manifold cured it finally (before the cylinder head cracked - never bored with a Landrover)

Its not a form of transport ,,, its a way of life.