- Thread starter ukracer
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hotponyshoes
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Can you anneal the copper first?
Screwdriver
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What cutting fluid is he using? If none, there's your problem. IIRC WD40 is a decent shout but I would hazard a guess that anchorlube would be ideal.
For soft material like copper, a fluteless/thread forming/rolling* tap would be far better.
Arc Euro used to sell them, but I can't seem them listed anymore.
A search for "M5 Fluteless tap" on ebay returns a few options.
Only thing with thread forming, is the starting hole size has to be far more accurate, as they rely on the correct amount of material being left to form the thread.
Too small a hole, and the tap will simply jam. Too big a hole, and you won't get a correctly formed thread.
A machine tap is more likely to be successful than a set of series hand taps, as it'll do it in a single pass.
For most uses, a machine tap is a far better option than hand taps, with spiral point being the preferred option, as the point forces the swarf forward, but only works in through holes.
Spiral flute taps angles the swarf backwards into the flutes, which on something like copper, will mean you're far more likely to jam the tap on the swarf.
*different suppliers use different names!
Arc Euro used to sell them, but I can't seem them listed anymore.
A search for "M5 Fluteless tap" on ebay returns a few options.
Only thing with thread forming, is the starting hole size has to be far more accurate, as they rely on the correct amount of material being left to form the thread.
Too small a hole, and the tap will simply jam. Too big a hole, and you won't get a correctly formed thread.
A machine tap is more likely to be successful than a set of series hand taps, as it'll do it in a single pass.
For most uses, a machine tap is a far better option than hand taps, with spiral point being the preferred option, as the point forces the swarf forward, but only works in through holes.
Spiral flute taps angles the swarf backwards into the flutes, which on something like copper, will mean you're far more likely to jam the tap on the swarf.
*different suppliers use different names!
That is likely to make the problem worse, as it makes the copper softer so it doesn't cut as well, as well as be more likely to jam things.
Agroshield
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Has he tried the same tap in a different material? Try on some steel and some aluminium just to eliminate a blunt/faulty tap.
Hand guided, turning using a 12" adjustable spanner the night after 12 pints of Stella would probably be a less preferable setup to a spring-loaded tapping guide in a drill press; one hand on the quill handle to apply pressure, the other to turn the tap wrench.
Hand guided, turning using a 12" adjustable spanner the night after 12 pints of Stella would probably be a less preferable setup to a spring-loaded tapping guide in a drill press; one hand on the quill handle to apply pressure, the other to turn the tap wrench.
Kram
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Its also worth considering what the part is for, if the thread is disturbed often it may be worth using a helicoil or threaded insert.
I've never had issue tapping copper. Taps must be blunt.
You can get machine taps specificially for non ferrous materials, they are perhaps a bit sharper.
I've never had issue tapping copper. Taps must be blunt.
You can get machine taps specificially for non ferrous materials, they are perhaps a bit sharper.
