tapered rod/bar

[doubleboost]

This is more of a job for a boring head in the tailstock, or offsetting the tailstock itself; the taper is less than a degree.

It is the wine clouding my judgment

 

[Pete.]

You can't use the offset method if you have the part held in a chuck, which is what it would be for turning a 1m long taper.

 

[Maker]

I can't help thinking you won't even notice such a slight taper, just use a piece of 20 mm and be done with it.

You can't use the offset method if you have the part held in a chuck, which is what it would be for turning a 1m long taper.

Such a long, thin piece would probably work in a chuck with an offset tailstock as it would flex, but said flexing would also make it fatter in the middle and a steady wouldn't counteract that as it can't ride on a taper.

 

[doubleboost]

I can't help thinking you won't even notice such a slight taper, just use a piece of 20 mm and be done with it.

Such a long, thin piece would probably work in a chuck with an offset tailstock as it would flex, but said flexing would also make it fatter in the middle and a steady wouldn't counteract that as it can't ride on a taper.

Between centres would be the way to do it

 

[Pete.]

I can't help thinking you won't even notice such a slight taper, just use a piece of 20 mm and be done with it.

Such a long, thin piece would probably work in a chuck with an offset tailstock as it would flex, but said flexing would also make it fatter in the middle and a steady wouldn't counteract that as it can't ride on a taper.

What you're suggesting is ill-advised, possibly even unsafe. You don't want your chuck jaws bell-mouthed and you certainly don't want half a meter of rod whipping about.

 

[Maker]

What you're suggesting is ill-advised, possibly even unsafe. You don't want your chuck jaws bell-mouthed and you certainly don't want half a meter of rod whipping about.

I never said it was safe, my recommendation was to use a piece of 20 mm round with no taper.

 

[ukracer]

This is more of a job for a boring head in the tailstock, or offsetting the tailstock itself; the taper is less than a degree.

Boring head in the tailstock?

 

[MattF]

not acceptable and I will care

A bit of OCD? Just get a couple of pillow blocks bearings, chuck the length of rod in those and then hook a drill upto one end. You can easily shape it with either a file or grinder whilst it's rotating. Another possible way would be to heat the rod and draw it down in size.

 

[Badger1bear]

I would not call it ocd, if I was to use round bar same size from one end to the othe I would have every cock and his dog saying " oh I wouldn't have done that " whilst they are standing in the smoking area.

I will come up with something .....

 

[Kent]

Hi guys, I think I may need the services of a blacksmith OR a brightspark out there may have a ready made solution to my search. I need to make a metal tail that starts out at around 25mm and then gradually tapers to 15mm, I forgot to mention the tail needs to be 1 metre long

Badger

That's a simple job for any with a forge and anvil! Have you however got or could you get a short I beam off cut and use oxy / fuel to improvise on tools? Failing that personally I should put it in a vice and work it down with a grinder working square till you get the size and taper right then round it off. You want a grinding wheel on for sure to get is sized up, then hit it with diminishing grit sanding discs. Me? I should start with the 9"! could have that done in less than an hour! You still need it bending though so that's a must for the oxy / fuel and a bending fork, even at 15mm it wont go easy cold

 

[Fintray]

Why not just cut the shape you require out of say 5mm with a plasma cutter or get a length of 15, 20 and 25mm weld them together then blend the sizes together by building up with lengthways welds?

 

[Badger1bear]

Why not just cut the shape you require out of say 5mm with a plasma cutter or get a length of 15, 20 and 25mm weld them together then blend the sizes together by building up with lengthways welds?

Thats going to be the plan my boy

 

[MattF]

I would not call it ocd, if I was to use round bar same size from one end to the othe I would have every cock and his dog saying " oh I wouldn't have done that " whilst they are standing in the smoking area.

I will come up with something .....

Honestly, what're you like. Personally, I wouldn't give a monkeys regarding the opinions of those type of people who know it all yet wouldn't know which end of a screwdriver to hold. Pubs are always full of "professionals". A 1/2" or above consistent diameter tail, same as you've done the trident, would be perfectly acceptable.

 

[Gareth J]

Thinking outside the box ; 1'of industrial chain, 1' of motorbike chain and 1' of bicycle chain. Weld the curves in where you fancy.

It's not like you're going to be making an exact replica of the actual devil!

PS; cool burner!

 

[Gareth J]

Oh, I've had another thought. Agricultural tines for loader grabs or buckrakes do just about exactly what you want. Cost around £30-50 new but a snapped one would be scrap.

 

[Badger1bear]

Oh, I've had another thought. Agricultural tines for loader grabs or buckrakes do just about exactly what you want. Cost around £30-50 new but a snapped one would be scrap.

BRILLIANT !

 

[Gareth J]

They're proper tough steel though, need to be heated to shape and annealed after or they'll be brittle. I'll check later but I don't think I have any old ones left

 

[Badger1bear]

They're proper tough steel though, need to be heated to shape and annealed after or they'll be brittle. I'll check later but I don't think I have any old ones left

Your a star mate, ive found 43" new ones on fleabay for £43 inc delivery. I will take the spike to work and heat it up to bend it to shape then add an arrow type head to the end of the tail, I wont need to temper it again because its just going to be decorative


if you do happen to have a spare spike pm me a price :-)

 

[rosinante]

Hi As it is purely decorative could you not weld 5 lengths of diminishing diameter rods end to end and then blend and bend as required, could be formed while still hot from welding,
HTH Chris

 

[GrahamGKD]

Hi As it is purely decorative could you not weld 5 lengths of diminishing diameter rods end to end and then blend and bend as required, could be formed while still hot from welding,
HTH Chris

...also suggested by Fintray above.

I have done this a few times to make the stems for large (5' high) flowers and also the stainless steel pole to support an owl sculpture. It works very well and, with a bit of work with the angle grinder, the steps in diameter are not noticeable.