I've had three pull switches fail in as many years all for 2 shower units, I want to convert one for a wall switch. It's 10.5 kw shower unit rated at 45 amps, but I need a terminal block or connector to create a switched circuit, 4 pin one. There are 15amps ones for switched light circuits and 30 amp ones which could be potentially used the same way, but I can't find one for rated at 45amps, any help please.
- Thread starter caprinut
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BrokenBiker
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Not sure if I'm missing g something but yiu can quite easilly get 50A shower isolation switches to mount outside the bathroom
Suspect the OP wants to extend the cables, not sure I would do personally but they do exist.
www.toolstation.com
Can’t vouch for how good they are, never used them and much more qualified people on here than me. Personally I don’t think anything wrong, just would drive me potty knowing they existed.
60A Junction Box
A strong and robust 60A junction box shaped for easier installation in tighter spaces. This oval enclosure has a depth of just 35mm - a slimline profile that's incredibly easy to work with.Inside, there's plenty of room and the three large brass terminals are easy to connect. The brown casing...
www.toolstation.com
Can’t vouch for how good they are, never used them and much more qualified people on here than me. Personally I don’t think anything wrong, just would drive me potty knowing they existed.
BrokenBiker
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Suspect the OP wants to extend the cables, not sure I would do personally but they do exist.
60A Junction Box
A strong and robust 60A junction box shaped for easier installation in tighter spaces. This oval enclosure has a depth of just 35mm - a slimline profile that's incredibly easy to work with.Inside, there's plenty of room and the three large brass terminals are easy to connect. The brown casing...
Can’t vouch for how good they are, never used them and much more qualified people on here than me. Personally I don’t think anything wrong, just would drive me potty knowing they existed.
Oh in that case, I'm sure wago do stuff in that amperage which would be the simplest option
brightspark
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nothing wrong with extending a 10.0mm cable with those joint boxesSuspect the OP wants to extend the cables, not sure I would do personally but they do exist.
60A Junction Box
A strong and robust 60A junction box shaped for easier installation in tighter spaces. This oval enclosure has a depth of just 35mm - a slimline profile that's incredibly easy to work with.Inside, there's plenty of room and the three large brass terminals are easy to connect. The brown casing...
Can’t vouch for how good they are, never used them and much more qualified people on here than me. Personally I don’t think anything wrong, just would drive me potty knowing they existed.
brightspark
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ive changed loads of shower pull switches at work and never had one fail yet . use a quality 50 amp switch with 2 screw terminals not just the one twist the 10.0mm cable ends with plyers otherwise if you dont the cores will splay out and the cable will only be tight on half the cores . try not to bend and fart on with the cables and just push the switch back otherwise they loosen up and thats when they burn out
brightspark
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you need an isolation switch near the shower either a pullie in the bathroom or a wall switch in the airing cupboard if its in bathroom or on the wall outside bathroom . i never turn mine off
Dave-sparks
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Nope, no need for it to be in the bathroom. Anything else in the bathroom the isolator would be fitted outside the room so the shower can be the same.
I think there may have been a requirement for it to be in the bathroom once upon a time and then, much like a lot of old regs, people insist on following rules which have been removed from the book.
MetalMonkey
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If you want to retain the pull cord - try fitting a crabtree one, they are about the best longest lasting ones you can get. Get them while you still can as they are discontinuing them.
Another option would be to leave the wiring where it is, pull it back into the loft and put in a contactor, then control that from a bog standard light switch.
Another option would be to leave the wiring where it is, pull it back into the loft and put in a contactor, then control that from a bog standard light switch.
brightspark
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crabtree volex mem and appl;eby are discontinuing there accessories there shower pull switches were big horrible round ones and not easy to fitIf you want to retain the pull cord - try fitting a crabtree one, they are about the best longest lasting ones you can get. Get them while you still can as they are discontinuing them.
Another option would be to leave the wiring where it is, pull it back into the loft and put in a contactor, then control that from a bog standard light switch.
MetalMonkey
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Siemens (who own them) is pulling the plug on a lot of their wiring accessory brands, very much like Schneider did with tower.
Can’t see the logic, everybody I know uses Appleby boxes, and the tooling must already be set up, so they can’t cost much to make.
The grey wago boxes are also being discontinued now wago have brought out their own version, although I believe the original company is still going to be making them under a their own brand.
I hope anyway, because the new white ones are rubbish.
daedalusminos
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I've had one fail in 20 years.
If you're replacing a failed one strip the cables back to fresh copper - you'll never get them clean enough otherwise, and don't use them to break a live circuit - they won't last long with the arcing.
If you're replacing a failed one strip the cables back to fresh copper - you'll never get them clean enough otherwise, and don't use them to break a live circuit - they won't last long with the arcing.
Looking inside the pull switch it's the copper tab which the makes circuit had broken off and I suspect the same thing had happened to the previous switches. To extend down to an Isolation switch outside the bathroom would require a rewire since supply and load are above the ceiling. What I'd like to do if it's code install a 10mm cable down to cooker switch from a 4 pin junction box the extra terminal for switched live.
MetalMonkey
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If you are intending on fitting the switch inside the bathroom then you just need to establish if it is outside the zones (https://electrical.theiet.org/media/1450/section-701.pdf), in which case you can.
You also need to establish what the current protection arrangement is on the circuit before you can work out if the cable, trunking and switch will be suitable.
You also need to establish what the current protection arrangement is on the circuit before you can work out if the cable, trunking and switch will be suitable.
Guineafowl
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I can’t see the point either - the shower has its own switch on the front. If we have a guest staying they’ll sometimes randomly turn it off, making me think the shower’s broken when I get in. If they’re an early riser (I’m not) I might get woken up by the DONK-DONG noise it makes.
If it’s for isolation for maintenance, you’d surely want to lock it off at the CU, not with a pull switch that anyone could wander by and switch on?
While I’m on the rant, bathroom light switches outside the room are annoying and, according to the great JW, not needed.
MetalMonkey
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It depends. Is the classic answer.
The switch is for isolation, not for functional switching, which is part of the reason they get burnt out in the first place.
Yes, technically in some cases you could use the circuit breaker... but most manufacturers instructions (which you also have to take into account) will recommend a double pole isolator is used, and depending on the earthing arrangements of the installation it may also be required - which of course a circuit breaker isn't.
There is also the practicality of it to consider - if you need to isolate the thing in a hurry you are likely wet, naked and not in the best position to go rummaging around at the consumer unit.
Or in HMO, flats, hotels etc you can't necessarily expect people to know the location and use the consumer unit as a point of isolation.
A local point of isolation in or near the bathroom makes sense and covers all basis which is why they are fitted as standard.
IET do have an article which delves into this.
https://electrical.theiet.org/wirin...ion-and-switching-for-mechanical-maintenance/
The switch is for isolation, not for functional switching, which is part of the reason they get burnt out in the first place.
Yes, technically in some cases you could use the circuit breaker... but most manufacturers instructions (which you also have to take into account) will recommend a double pole isolator is used, and depending on the earthing arrangements of the installation it may also be required - which of course a circuit breaker isn't.
There is also the practicality of it to consider - if you need to isolate the thing in a hurry you are likely wet, naked and not in the best position to go rummaging around at the consumer unit.
Or in HMO, flats, hotels etc you can't necessarily expect people to know the location and use the consumer unit as a point of isolation.
A local point of isolation in or near the bathroom makes sense and covers all basis which is why they are fitted as standard.
IET do have an article which delves into this.
https://electrical.theiet.org/wirin...ion-and-switching-for-mechanical-maintenance/
brightspark
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christ just get it changed with a decent make pull switch and make the ends off properly and tight . job done 
move on
move on 