Next room! Will one of these work with these lights? Its a trailing edge type dimmer, the only one that will fit the grid switch (Hager Sollysta). I can't find anything cheaper, i think i'll just have to close my eyes and hit the buy it button. Hope the back box is deep enough.
it will work ok but they are ripping u off at that price they can be had for less. 25 quid at least cheaper from city. I can get one for 82 quid including vat , u can ring them up and haggle the price they said hanger are well over priced even to them to buy in
Me again The switch i am replacing with this dimmer currently has two lives in COM and one live in L1. Its a one way circuit. Lighting curcuit loops run round the switches rather than the light fittings so i have neutrals as well. What goes where?
ther 2 lives together that was common in to L the single switched wire that was live one in to V on new switch . the neutrals just kept together separate in connector block . how much did u end up spending on the switch
they told me 82 theres a 10 year guarantee on them though I think so don't loose your bill . id be well choked if it jacked in after a few years and I couldn't find the bill
apparently those dimmers will only work on one way circuits to operate on 2 way u need a slave dimmer for the other end instead of just a 2 way switch here explains different make same principal
Next question I need to put a two way switch in at th'old fellas so he can turn the lounge lights on and off from the comfort of his chair. Theres a 2 gang switch plate by the door, one switch does the light in one side, the other switch does the opposite side. I need to make it 2 way, so a 2 gang/2 way switch next to the chair. Do i need to run two 3 core &E cables between the switches, or is there a way of doing it off one cable?
Id go for a wireless switch saves all the chasing If you are going to chase in a 3 core you need to put an intermediate switch in the middle assuming you will end up with 3 switches for the one circuit Common all go to common Intermediate will have your l1 l2 cables your commons Join together in back of the box
Its a bungalow with egg box walls so i can ram a piece of 20mm conduit down the inside of the wall from inside the loft and slide the cable down it. Why an intermediate switch?
If you have 3 switches on a 2 way you need an intermediate If its 2 switches then you only need 2 2way switches.
u need to run 2 no 3 core and earths between the switches then to convert them use 1.0mm its easier to terminate than 1.5mm
here https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=convert+1+way+light+to+a+2+way&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=i2sFWLi5B_QwfM%2CCdWokU7drcRDXM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSkYtSzSH3G6PqtfhVREQzL0ny0QQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiHk4my9tzsAhX4QUEAHaqGBVkQ9QF6BAgbEDs#imgrc=i2sFWLi5B_QwfM if it only has a 15mm backbox on existing change it to a 25mm one as theres hardly any depth for cables with the 15mm ones
Don't know haw i missed this thread! I've been using the Wago connectors in my house for the last 3 Years and they're great, I've run 4mm radials around for the power and they work well on that. As I'm doing lots of changes in the hallway / landing with moving the stairs around & shifting the front door across I had to rewire the lights as the old stuff was very poor but as I'll need to alter it all again later the Wago's have come in handy! @mtt.tr are you saying the grey Wago boxes don't comply with the regs here?
Sorry my point is that to comply with maintenance free you have to use wago boxes with wago connectors You can cant use wago boxes with say a choxbox which is stupid as really they achieve the same thing This is soley due to having to follow manufacturers guidelines and wago so say you have to use their box.
Yes maintenance free Wago's in a box is ok, choc blocks aren't. For a minute there I thought I'd misconstrued the regs! I've never liked choc blocks as the screw always seem miss the cable core or just pinch the edge of it.
We had a socket and aerial socket in a daft position in the middle of a wall. I joined the cables inside the back boxes and routed them elsewhere. I put blank plates on the front. The wall is white so they don't look too bad. Now the Mrs wants the wall 'misty buff' or whatever they will stand out a mile so i want to get rid of them. It is a block wall with dot and dab. If i use a Wago box with a cable tie it is classed as maintainance free. Can i then bury this in the wall and plaster over it, meaning i can get rid of the existing back boxes and blank plates.
