mark roberts
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Any real wood in that size and location is going to move. Something impregnated with resin would be best
- Thread starter ajlelectronics
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ajlelectronics
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I think that I may be best using a temporary board and refurbishing the original.
That's what I would do if the original just wants refinishing.
but seal the edges or it will peel and bubble .
addjunkie
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Solid laminate work tops perhaps
Warm Oak Compact Laminate Worktop - Top Worktops
As a leading London solid wood worktop supplier, Top Worktops have a huge selection of quality compact laminate 12mm thick worktops in stock ready for immediate delivery or collection.
www.topworktops.co.uk
ajlelectronics
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500x480x18mm
One of your issues is how little you need. Ideally The marine play its made from already would be the ideal option but if you need only a piece for that cover having to buy an 8x4' sheet of the stuff is a little overkill.
I like the option of the compact laminate worktop although my only concern would be longterm how the sunlight on it would affect it.
Personally having the tools to joint planks together I'd probably make it from the Oak and then put countertop resin on it top and bottom to seal it from all moisture permanently.
However looking at https://www.cutmy.co.uk/wood/plywood-sheets/marine/18mm/L600-W500/ looks like you could get a bit of marine ply cut to size for about £30
I like the option of the compact laminate worktop although my only concern would be longterm how the sunlight on it would affect it.
Personally having the tools to joint planks together I'd probably make it from the Oak and then put countertop resin on it top and bottom to seal it from all moisture permanently.
However looking at https://www.cutmy.co.uk/wood/plywood-sheets/marine/18mm/L600-W500/ looks like you could get a bit of marine ply cut to size for about £30
Pigeon_Droppings2
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This is also my experience...when I did some digging I think the main marine ply stamp is a voluntary code!
Lloyd's certified seems to be the best stuff I could find...but it was expensive.
As previously suggested something like buffalo board is maybe a good alternative.
Ton-up
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Twenty plus years ago the company I work for owned another company called British Plywood in Enfield. They made plywood for things like aircraft manufacture. The veneers were hand selected, glued and pressed together in steam presses before cutting to size. Very labour intensive. Each sheet was coded for traceability and cost a lot of money.
I probably have a piece of Baltic Birch Plywood that size you could have. Birch plywood has about 12 layers and they look much prettier than normal plywood. They do need a really good sealer though as left damp they can stain.
northwest
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When I think back to some of the timber I have used it makes my head hurt. I knew of a guy up in Shildon who made the most beautiful outdoor garden type parasols and were made entirely of Teak. He had bought all the timber in a slipway down Devon way and that was his source. He reckoned he would retire about the same time his supply ran out. The umbrellas were works of art though.
No Teak and Iroko are two separate species of timber. Iroko is less oily than Teak but equally good for external use if well maintained. Used a lot for hardwood window frames.
Looking at your existing hatch cover, I would be inclined to reduce the dimensions by an inch on width and depth and add half inch solid wood Teak, Iroko or Mahogany lippings to all four faces. Attach the lippings with epoxy adhesive (and pins if your don't have sash clamps). They will never come off and will be a lot cheaper overall. The epoxy adhesive is waterproof and will never come apart. Simply plane / sand the lippings level and then stain varnish the whole lot. There is nothing wrong with the bulk of the hatch just the veneered edge coming off. I would attach the lippings level with the top surface so that you only have to plane / sand one side. Have fun!
ajlelectronics
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Looking at the way the veneer is coming off; I would take a cut off every one of the four sides so that you have a clean surface to attach the lippings to rather than take it all off one side. I don't know your wood working ability, but ensure the amount you cut off includes the thickness of the saw kerf (blade thickness), otherwise you will cut off half an inch as well as the saw kerf and end up taking about five eights of an inch off. Apologies if I am teaching you to suck eggs! The easiest way is to fix two on opposing sides and then fix the other two when the adhesive on the first two has cured.
Blue Chips
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If you're not locked into the idea of using wood, I think this could be an excellent product for the door/hatch:
https://www.silwoodmarine.co.uk/products/king-starboard/
It's waterproof, it won't warp or delaminate, it doesn't require finishing, and it cuts like wood.. It might even outlast the boat.
Not the cheapest alternative, but in the long run it might be more economical.
(You might be able to find a similar competitive product at a lower price.)
https://www.silwoodmarine.co.uk/products/king-starboard/
It's waterproof, it won't warp or delaminate, it doesn't require finishing, and it cuts like wood.. It might even outlast the boat.
Not the cheapest alternative, but in the long run it might be more economical.
(You might be able to find a similar competitive product at a lower price.)
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Pigeon_Droppings2
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If you use epoxy make sure it's UV tolerant...or overcoat with something that is.
