Stuff you have made today

[Memmeddu]

After a long time I've worked again on a restoration video for my channel.
Nothing special but something needed.
Edited the 40 minutes recorded clips into 10 minutes of video.
There's still a lot to do to see the finished product but it's a little step forward.
I've been pretty busy lately and YouTube has never been a priority, especially because of their revenue system...
Not talking strictly about money, but chances to get views, that's the first way someone gets paid of it's work on the platform.
Anyways I'm going to check a chainsaw easy start recoil and a Bosch GBH5-38D.
They should both be easy fixes

 

[offthames]

I took one of these toolboxes. Cut the branding out and welded fresh steel in, and added my own. Idea is to make an imaginary 1980s BMW accessory, an additional travel toolkit. Inside will have vintage stahwille tools in custom made trays. Does the embossed steel look real? It isn't. Maybe some would be interested in how to do it as it's a nice effect.

 

[Mick Annick]

I took one of these toolboxes. Cut the branding out and welded fresh steel in, and added my own. Idea is to make an imaginary 1980s BMW accessory, an additional travel toolkit. Inside will have vintage stahwille tools in custom made trays. Does the embossed steel look real? It isn't. Maybe some would be interested in how to do it as it's a nice effect.

View attachment 484153

View attachment 484155
View attachment 484156

Can’t tell much, need a few more photos please but very interested as to how you did it.

 

[offthames]

The paint is still drying so can't get great photos. Basically, if you design the embossed parts in CAD and 3d print, then leave them stuck to the print bed, stick duct tape (good quality stuff, 3m, as its really sticky) to the back face of the letters, then peel off, you can then very finely put epoxy on each individual letter, then stick the tape down onto the metal, it will keep the letters in place until the glue has set. Once set, you can remove the tape. Then you want to put quite a few coats of paint specifically on the areas to look embossed (helps smooth out the letters which would have been good to do in CAD but was beyond the resolution of my printer), and then paint the entire thing once those isolated coats have tacked up. I don't think it would work well with gloss (gloss shows everything) but on satin it looks good I feel.

 

[Kram]

Wanted to do something on lathe. Both alu bits turned down to 20mm as I have an endmill, not one for 22mm. Another good reason is that fits my boring bar holder, so no need for er40 collet chuck, which sticks out far too much. Set to 17 degrees.
Started with insert endmill but it was cutting undersize, rocking slightly.

Endmill was much better, no rocking. After photo put it back in chuck to drill and tap M8 to secure it, and will need to drill the body a clearance hole and countersink, that may be a challenge to make fit.

Other end will have a flat bar running across. After pic I drilled and tapped two m4 holes at the same angle.

Then realised The length is possibly now too short,.so may have to chop handle and add spacer in the middle

 

[MattF]

The best laid plans.

 

[Maker]

The paint is still drying so can't get great photos. Basically, if you design the embossed parts in CAD and 3d print, then leave them stuck to the print bed, stick duct tape (good quality stuff, 3m, as its really sticky) to the back face of the letters, then peel off, you can then very finely put epoxy on each individual letter, then stick the tape down onto the metal, it will keep the letters in place until the glue has set. Once set, you can remove the tape. Then you want to put quite a few coats of paint specifically on the areas to look embossed (helps smooth out the letters which would have been good to do in CAD but was beyond the resolution of my printer), and then paint the entire thing once those isolated coats have tacked up. I don't think it would work well with gloss (gloss shows everything) but on satin it looks good I feel.

View attachment 484157

The text looks good, the print lines on the BMW logo let it down.

 

[offthames]

The text looks good, the print lines on the BMW logo let it down.

I did worry that it would look like that. But it's replicating how BMW stamp the dark parts of the roundel. As if it was just stamped as one piece and not ridges it wouldn't have the appearance of being dark

It was printed into it, see photos below

Photo of BMW fuel can

Photo of print

 

[Dcal]

Today I made a 2 inch cube out of 10mm flat bar.

Well it's almost a cube, it's to split the top ball joints on an Alfa 159.

I started off with a tig root and finished with 2.5mm 7018 stick, because why not.

The uprights are alloy with a steel insert, so my normal method of hitting to them with a big hammer doesn't work well.
With a 16mm nut welded to the underside it did the job with ease.

The top arms on these seem to be made of chocolate, the last ones haven't done 10,000 miles and they failed the mot. There wasn't a clunky but there was a tiny bit of lift.
I decided to make a few tools to speed up replacing them.

Your supposed to remove the strut, but if the mounting bolts can pass between the coils of the spring it can be left in place.
I've harder springs and the bolts have a big head so there is no chance of passing through, so another tool had to be made up for spreading the spring.

This also worked and let me get the wishbone out.

It took far longer to make the tools than it would have taken to remove the struts, but it was good welding practice and if I keep the car it will be used again (and again)

All in all a fun little project.

 

[offthames]

Today I made a 2 inch cube out of 10mm flat bar.

View attachment 484360

Well it's almost a cube, it's to split the top ball joints on an Alfa 159.

View attachment 484361

View attachment 484364

I started off with a tig root and finished with 2.5mm 7018 stick, because why not.

View attachment 484369

The uprights are alloy with a steel insert, so my normal method of hitting to them with a big hammer doesn't work well.
With a 16mm nut welded to the underside it did the job with ease.

View attachment 484366

The top arms on these seem to be made of chocolate, the last ones haven't done 10,000 miles and they failed the mot. There wasn't a clunky but there was a tiny bit of lift.
I decided to make a few tools to speed up replacing them.

Your supposed to remove the strut, but if the mounting bolts can pass between the coils of the spring it can be left in place.
I've harder springs and the bolts have a big head so there is no chance of passing through, so another tool had to be made up for spreading the spring.

View attachment 484367

This also worked and let me get the wishbone out.

View attachment 484368

It took far longer to make the tools than it would have taken to remove the struts, but it was good welding practice and if I keep the car it will be used again (and again)

All in all a fun little project.

Does yours have Selespeed?

 

[Dcal]

No, but the wife's Tipo has the later DSG version.

 

[Kram]

I wanted a blade guard for my pruning choppers, as they keep poking holes in my work bag. An easy way is to wrap the part in film and coat it with ABS acetone/MEK slurry, another wrap of film and let it sit for a few days. My slurry was drying out so need to do some more. It will get a second coat - best to apply it thin as it takes a while to evaporate off.

A bit more progress on handle. Parted, bolted the top half together. Turned a spacer and bonded that to bottom, will turn to size once set.

 

[Memmeddu]

Made little progresses with my restoration project for YouTube

 

[MattF]

I've been at the brass rod again. One very minor point I found a bit cheesy on this drill bit grinder was the thumbscrew setup which secures the cover over the grinding wheel. A couple of nylon washers were acting as spacers, behind the cover, to position/pack it when the thumbscrew was nipped up. So...



Original bits on the right. The new threaded brass piece acts as both a stud & spacer.

 

[Kram]

The abs above, I had wrapped in film to keep some of the solvent in. The result is it has self smoothed. Still needs another layer. Useful process that I should use more often!

I needed a bushing for a 3mm pin and 4.2mm bore. The best way to do it is drill first, then take a large cut off the OD to the final size, this way the area being cut is supported. Parting was less succesfull with it snapping /tearing off, but had more length than I needed and filed to length

Using 6mm endmill, these Clarkson Ripr high healix types are quite good! Part superglued and clamped to toolpost holder.

Almost finished, need to round off the corners. Turned a 3mm brass pin to replace the drill bit.

Perhaps a bit OTT for a cheap grabber repair, but I decided early that the original plastic handle couldnt be reliably glued.

 

[indykid]

Almost finished, need to round off the corners. Turned a 3mm brass pin to replace the drill bit.
View attachment 484470

Perhaps a bit OTT for a cheap grabber repair, but I decided early that the original plastic handle couldnt be reliably glued.

A secondary function of the plastic handle is that it stops your hand freezing in cold weather. You might want to to give it a rubber grip or some bar tape if you have any on hand.

Admirable tenacity to repair that though, especially when a pack of 4 cheapo litter pickers are £12 on Amazon or £15 for a quality one.

 

[Kram]

Its for indoor use, my uncle is disabled and cant get outside, he uses it a lot, opening windows and things like that. He's had a few of the plastic ones and they dont last, the plastic where it joins the tube always breaks.

 

[sako243]

A TDC stop, it's even adjustable. It involved a lot of processes. A hammer and punch to smash things, a lathe tidy up the top where I may have missed slightly... A file to clean up a nut, a welder to weld the nut in. A tap to clean up the bit of excess weld.

I also made sure I was a muppet and promptly picked up the TDC tool after welding and promptly burnt my finger

 

[bricol]

All you need now is a TDC finder so you can then carefully screw that screw in until it contacts the piston

 

[RichardM]

If you turn the crimped metal around the insulator off then it usually comes out without any problems.