Stuff you have made today

[Hitch]

Hitch ,
What sort of dimensions & how many KW of heat output does it have ?

The Kensa unit itself is 600x600x1100 .. 13kw.

 

[Maker]

First attempt at a copper Monstera Deliciosa, aka Swiss Cheese Plant.





It's alright for a first attempt but I'm not entirely happy with it. I made it in two halves, I thought the solder joint would make a nice midrib but it came out too messy. The joint also broke when I tried to form the sharp crease down the middle and was quite a lot of effort to stick back together, so the next one I'll make from just one sheet. I cut and filed it all and then bent it, I think it'll work better if I hammer the curves into the material first, and then cut the holes, you can see in the last image some of the holes have wavy edges where bending messed them up. I'd like to shape a stem too, the real ones aren't round, more like a "Starfleet insignia" cross section, I didn't see the point in going to that effort on this one so just used some 3/16" pipe.


If anyone knows about jeweller's saws/blades please let me know, I think that would be quicker and easier than doing these holes with shears and files.

 

[Mick Annick]

First attempt at a copper Monstera Deliciosa, aka Swiss Cheese Plant.

View attachment 347209
View attachment 347208
View attachment 347210

It's alright for a first attempt but I'm not entirely happy with it. I made it in two halves, I thought the solder joint would make a nice midrib but it came out too messy. The joint also broke when I tried to form the sharp crease down the middle and was quite a lot of effort to stick back together, so the next one I'll make from just one sheet. I cut and filed it all and then bent it, I think it'll work better if I hammer the curves into the material first, and then cut the holes, you can see in the last image some of the holes have wavy edges where bending messed them up. I'd like to shape a stem too, the real ones aren't round, more like a "Starfleet insignia" cross section, I didn't see the point in going to that effort on this one so just used some 3/16" pipe.


If anyone knows about jeweller's saws/blades please let me know, I think that would be quicker and easier than doing these holes with shears and files.

Here’s one I made earlier, 50 years earlier…

School metalwork project.

 

[Maker]

I made a smaller leaf from some 15mm pipe, really happy how it came out so I unrolled some 28mm to make a big one, for some reason I made the holes much bigger, don't like it at all so haven't bothered finishing it, just put a stem on to see what I think of the overall design, I'll re-do the big leaf tomorrow.



Other than the big ugly leaf, I quite like it, but I do need to come up with a nicer pot than a lead flask that says Xofigo.

 

[DAPPH]

Can you lightly sweat braze the seam edge on edge ? I think it would be less visible if it was done from the underside , so run a very thin braze along each well cleaned edge individually , then bring them together , sprinkle with borax etc & apply a small fine neutral flame. Leave it to cool so the braze sets but while still too hot to handle use tongs & drop it in cold water to shatter the glazed borax .

Then gently shape the leaf with a soft planishing hammer

 

[Maker]

Maybe, it's hard to get a close enough fit but I probably just need more practice. It would be good if there was some sort of contrasting line down the middle, the ones made from a single piece do look like they're lacking something.

 

[Blobber]

First attempt at a copper Monstera Deliciosa, aka Swiss Cheese Plant.

View attachment 347209
View attachment 347208
View attachment 347210

It's alright for a first attempt but I'm not entirely happy with it. I made it in two halves, I thought the solder joint would make a nice midrib but it came out too messy. The joint also broke when I tried to form the sharp crease down the middle and was quite a lot of effort to stick back together, so the next one I'll make from just one sheet. I cut and filed it all and then bent it, I think it'll work better if I hammer the curves into the material first, and then cut the holes, you can see in the last image some of the holes have wavy edges where bending messed them up. I'd like to shape a stem too, the real ones aren't round, more like a "Starfleet insignia" cross section, I didn't see the point in going to that effort on this one so just used some 3/16" pipe.


If anyone knows about jeweller's saws/blades please let me know, I think that would be quicker and easier than doing these holes with shears and files.

That solder joint doesnt look like it was clean enough or hot enough, what solder are you using?

 

[Maker]

That solder joint doesnt look like it was clean enough or hot enough, what solder are you using?

That would do it. It was a scabby old roll of multicore too dirty to use on electronics, for some reason I thought it would be fine for this. I'll do it again with some clean, plumbing solder.

 

[My Old Landy]

Today I have finally finished these brackets obligatory video too

 

[Brad93]

That would do it. It was a scabby old roll of multicore too dirty to use on electronics, for some reason I thought it would be fine for this. I'll do it again with some clean, plumbing solder.

Clean with alcohol or acetone. Then Wire wool the parts and the solder.

 

[Brad93]

Today I have finally finished these brackets obligatory video too
View attachment 347409

Been after one of those Starrett rules for a while. Where did you find it?

 

[My Old Landy]

Been after one of those Starrett rules for a while. Where did you find it?

It was a present from my Mrs, I commented on Adam Booth using one so she tracked one down for me on Amazon!

 

[Bki26]

Finished the wire sign, lidl £4 two in one spray primer + paint did a nice job.

 

[Anguz]

I like that alot

 

[brewdexta]

I added an additional fence to the right side of the mitre saw. mainly made from bits of scrap, a side of an old kitchen unit, a bit of MDF that was in the departure lounge to the tip, a couple of bits of 25 and 20mm box, and an old bolt. only new bits was some cheap T hinges and the Kreg top track.

This photo has the bit of 50m box clamped to the mitre saw, it was used to make sure the fence was square vertically and horizontally to the mitre saw. The support is constructed of 20mm box with a nut welded in the end so I can use a bolt to adjust the height. The 20mm box slides into some 25mm box than hinges at the bottom where it attaches to the saw table.. A simple pin holds them together. Once the pin is removed and the 20mm box slides into the 25mm box, its short enough to stow away on the saw table frame so the fence can fold down.

I can now have stops either side, the right hand stop has adjustable graticules on both sides so once I put the tape measures on to the top track, you can adjust it for different kerf saw blades if your sawing to the left or right of the blade.

And with the fence folded down

I still have a bit of finessing to do but it all works. I may add a slide out support for longer timber to the right, it needs a coat of paint and the way the fence support locates in a bit of angle underneath the table needs looking at, plus a coat f paint.

Cheers
Andy

 

[Richiew]

Disc sander is 99% finished. This pic shows it running. I spent ages today making a brass adaptor to join the UNF thread on the motor body to the metric thread on a brass cable gland. The adaptor broke just as I was tidying it up on the lathe. To remedy this, I turned down the metric threads on a plastic cable gland and threaded the remaining stub onto the motor. The internal threads on the motor case cut into and threaded the stub of the plastic gland to give a very secure fit. The cable gland can still be screwed on and off if needs be.

First bit of material to sand.

Success!

Few things noticed after running.

It needs another grub screw to retain the sanding disc apparatus to the motor shaft. Just to be on the safe side.

The table needs moving over to the right-hand side of the disc to make the most of the faster surface speed at the edge of the disc. I only need to drill two further holes in the base to shift the table, which is bolted down. That is no trouble to do.

It weighs a flippin' ton. The motor is huge, and the base is 3/16" thick steel. I've added further steel bits during the build for good measure. At least it won't move when I lean into it with some tube or box section.

 

[brightspark]

are u going to make an ajustable sliding fence for it for sanding angles

 

[Anguz]

I cant get over how tidy other peoples workshops are

 

[roblane65]

Not all of them !

 

[Richiew]

are u going to make an ajustable sliding fence for it for sanding angles

The slot is there on the table. Probably will buy something like this off ebay and make it fit. Less than eight quid to my door.