Stuff you have made today

[Dieselman 63]

More welding practice, cleaned up that corner no end
View attachment 328332View attachment 328333

Nice, I did something similar at a place I worked at, the system they used before I arrived was just to have steel all over the floor. Got sick of tripping over rsj, satisfying!

 

[MattF]

I've been at the brass rod again.



Replacement, (for the standard bolt), knurled head locking bolt for positioning the dog clutch trip.

 

[Kram]

What're the inserts like?

Good finish, same as the other alu polished types.

 

[MysterG]

I rebuilt my turntable into a slightly better looking case. At the same time I enlarged the pulley for better gearing.

 

[Kram]

My hands stayed clean. No shellac marker transfered off. Goes on better and I do like the smell of mek

Vice bender is not great. I need a proper one.. did it the old way.

Made up the top peice where the PID will mount. Cone drill then nibbler! Very quick to cut this out and enjoyed. 2mm is the limit for it. Finished with file.

I had the melter drying at 49v 530w and after two hours the outside had reached 55c, inside around 500c and should have very little moisture left I hope.

 

[Mick Annick]

Railings, customer’s design, for a barbecue area next to a 4m drop…

 

[slim_boy_fat]

^^ Are they going to be resin'd in?

 

[Mick Annick]

^^ Are they going to be resin'd in?

Yes, there’s a small stone wall they’ll be set into

 

[Stueeee]

Last time out in my old Chevy truck it had a weep from the accelerator pump diaphragm. The carb is a 'Spreadbore' Holley which was factory fitment to some 'Big Block' chevy trucks- it has made a good performance carb for my 5.7 litre small block after a bit of jiggery pokery with the jetting. However during the rebuild I decided to do something about the secondary choke dashpot. Inside the squareish cover at the bottom of the photo is a diaphragm with a spring, the springs are calibrated and colour coded a bit like the dashpot spring in an SU carb. Changing these springs affects the point in the rev range the big secondary chokes open; there is no mechanical means of opening the secondaries in a so-called 'vacuum secondary' Holley. Changing these springs around to fine tune a Holley can be an absolute pain as the used diaphragm can be really difficult to reseat around the edges once the 'new' spring is fitted on top.

Original plan was to bore a hole in the Holley dashpot lid big enough to accept the spring and then make a screw on cover with an 'o' ring to provide the seal. you can see the inside of the original cover behind a selection of Holley dashpot springs in the photo below. Unfortunately there isn't any metal left to do this once the top is machined flat on the outside.

So, the answer was to reproduce the lid using a small chunk of billet from the scrap bin.

The form tool for the 7/32" internal radius was made from a busted Cobalt slot drill.

Next I turned up the lid; the groove is for an 'O' ring

Assembled with the bits cut to shape and drilled....

And installed, glad to say it works OK...

 

[8ob]

Last time out in my old Chevy truck it had a weep from the accelerator pump diaphragm. The carb is a 'Spreadbore' Holley which was factory fitment to some 'Big Block' chevy trucks- it has made a good performance carb for my 5.7 litre small block after a bit of jiggery pokery with the jetting. However during the rebuild I decided to do something about the secondary choke dashpot. Inside the squareish cover at the bottom of the photo is a diaphragm with a spring, the springs are calibrated and colour coded a bit like the dashpot spring in an SU carb. Changing these springs affects the point in the rev range the big secondary chokes open; there is no mechanical means of opening the secondaries in a so-called 'vacuum secondary' Holley. Changing these springs around to fine tune a Holley can be an absolute pain as the used diaphragm can be really difficult to reseat around the edges once the 'new' spring is fitted on to

Nice work Stuart A properly dialled in vac secondary for road work is a far better option than an oversized bore washing double pumper. Folk into yanks get all wrapped up in bigger is better and carbs are normally first on the hit list.

Bob

 

[Stueeee]

Nice work Stuart A properly dialled in vac secondary for road work is a far better option than an oversized bore washing double pumper. Folk into yanks get all wrapped up in bigger is better and carbs are normally first on the hit list.

Bob

Thanks,
Yes the (lack of) streetability of really big double pumpers is a lesson lots of people have learned the hard (and expensive) way. One of my brothers has just changed from a new 850 CFM (IIRC) to a swap meet sourced 650 Vac secondary and also changed out the super complicated 'dial in advance' ignition system to a factory HEI dizzy fitted with a drop in performance module on the 383 motor in his truck. Which has resulted not needing to chase his tail trying to get it to run nicely.

 

[m_c]

A reasonably shiny surface.

First time using the new facemill, and it's produced a pretty good surface finish in a lump of steel for the first set of figures produced by the speeds and feeds calc.
Probably need to go a bit slower for the finishing pass if I want it more shiny, but this is destined to be a tool holder for the lathe, so as long it's square and the right shape, shiny doesn't matter.

 

[stuvy]

on my old man style bikes the pegs are always lower so I feel like a boss if i ever get low enough to scrape them

I need to get buying a fresh bike for commuting. Key criteria is cheap, practical and economical... thinking a honda NC750 or ER6, nothing exciting or even remotely interesting.

Ride the er6 after the Honda and buy the honda

My dad had an er6 what an awful bike

Iv ridden a track version and whilst it handled I just don’t like parallel twins

 

[minimutly]

I've been at the brass rod again.

View attachment 328589

Replacement, (for the standard bolt), knurled head locking bolt for positioning the dog clutch trip.

Show us yer lathe mate?

 

[MattF]

Show us yer lathe mate?

I'll take a photo in a bit. It's a Drummond M type.

 

[Mike Pinches]

Ride the er6 after the Honda and buy the honda

My dad had an er6 what an awful bike

Iv ridden a track version and whilst it handled I just don’t like parallel twins

I find the NC just doesn't appeal at all, I understand it's really economical and a good bike but just seems really dull (though haven't ridden one). I would probably look at the MT07 if I was going for that style of bike.

 

[minimutly]

I'll take a photo in a bit. It's a Drummond M type.

Mmmm, thought it was from the feet. I'm looking at one just up the road from me - rusty heap, but i looks all thre except the gears. Do you cut threads on yours?

 

[MattF]

Never had the leadscrew powered, as yet.

 

[Tupers]

The wonderful people who “disconnected” my lathe before I night it simply cut the wires so now I get to figure out what lives are what so I can stick a plug on it.

 

[Munkul]

I find the NC just doesn't appeal at all, I understand it's really economical and a good bike but just seems really dull (though haven't ridden one). I would probably look at the MT07 if I was going for that style of bike.

It IS a really dull bike. My cousin had one. I hated it. But as a practical commuter it probably can't be beaten. The built in storage box and the real-world 80mpg, not to mention the reliability...
I had an immaculate low milage XSR700 but i sold it when i moved, thinking it was going to sit and depreciate. (How wrong I was!). I miss that bike, it was sheer good fun, the engine was and is an absolute peach. The retro looks were the icing on the cake.
I now need a cheap bike that I can leave sat outside on the drive, so basically a sub £2500 bike, any more than that and I'd be nervous about it. May as well get as new as I can afford.
I'd get an MT07 if i could find one for £2500.