Hood
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Flood coolant, don't think I have a youtube of the Triumph using Nylon but this is the CNC when I first fitted the SZGH controller to it.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
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My Old Landy
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Finally finished the first of my qctp holders. Mild steel so may case harden once they are all done. Probably no point as I think they will out last me 
The knurling is not brilliant but it works
The knurling is not brilliant but it works
That's the same design of toll post as mine - bought from Chester Machine tools a long time ago, with a couple of tool holders. I bought a couple more soon after - the dovetail is a different width meaning the "quick change" involves a fiar few more turns of the locking screw in or out, depending on which on. And all the tool clamp screws, while drilled parallel to each other, are not perpendicular to the actual holder.Finally finished the first of my qctp holders. Mild steel so may case harden once they are all done. Probably no point as I think they will out last me
The knurling is not brilliant but it works
View attachment 289979
Dovetail cutter arrived yesterday for me to make some more that fit properly . ..
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Ah ... That's cheating using a posh machine and cutting fluids .. I have the antique Sphere cira 1943 so don't have a wet set up ( not likely to either ) I usually cut everything dry or or use a spot of compressor oil on an artist paint brush or use WD40 through the tube attachment if I need lube. Might try and do that and see if I can get a better finish instead , it never occurred for me to use lubrication ..
Hood
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You need to keep nylon cool and I would think that more important than actual lubrication but...
I use flood all the time on the Triumph as well and always when turning nylon.
Hood
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I think it would likely turn quite nicelyThanks very much .In that case any idea if -23 oC deep frozen nylon can be turned ?
don't fancy your chances of keeping any kind of tolerance on it though Unless of course you are going to keep it in the freezer after you have made the part 
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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Not strictly 'today', nor is it finished yet, but as I'd gone to the trouble of making a collet adapter set for my Boxford VSL, it seemed like a good idea to acquire some collets. Then I needed somewhere to put them, and as the lathe's cabinet door already had 4 holes drilled in it, that looked like a good place to start.
Slotted uprights and shelf brackets (in brown to match the lathe!) were found on Ebay and a shelf designed in CAD to suit them, then 3D printed.
This is the result, accommodating the drawtube and handwheel, plus collet closer and the spindle 3MT reducer as well as a few collets:
The second shelf (note lower pair of brackets) will have more slots for collets, plus tailstock drill chuck and maybe live centre. I was going to make the shelves from 3mm alloy plate but a poor stiffening fold on the first attempt caused a rethink. For the moment it takes the weight of the drawtube and provides a home for the chuck locking key:
The odd-looking alloy blocks at the ends of the shelf uprights are there because whoever drilled the door holes failed to get any two of them square to each other or any edge of the door, so the blocks are drilled off-centre to allow the uprights to be parallel!
Slotted uprights and shelf brackets (in brown to match the lathe!
) were found on Ebay and a shelf designed in CAD to suit them, then 3D printed.This is the result, accommodating the drawtube and handwheel, plus collet closer and the spindle 3MT reducer as well as a few collets:
The second shelf (note lower pair of brackets) will have more slots for collets, plus tailstock drill chuck and maybe live centre. I was going to make the shelves from 3mm alloy plate but a poor stiffening fold on the first attempt caused a rethink. For the moment it takes the weight of the drawtube and provides a home for the chuck locking key:
The odd-looking alloy blocks at the ends of the shelf uprights are there because whoever drilled the door holes failed to get any two of them square to each other or any edge of the door, so the blocks are drilled off-centre to allow the uprights to be parallel!
James1979
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That 3Dprinting is stronger than I have it credit for.Not strictly 'today', nor is it finished yet, but as I'd gone to the trouble of making a collet adapter set for my Boxford VSL, it seemed like a good idea to acquire some collets. Then I needed somewhere to put them, and as the lathe's cabinet door already had 4 holes drilled in it, that looked like a good place to start.
Slotted uprights and shelf brackets (in brown to match the lathe!
View attachment 290060
This is the result, accommodating the drawtube and handwheel, plus collet closer and the spindle 3MT reducer as well as a few collets:
View attachment 290057
The second shelf (note lower pair of brackets) will have more slots for collets, plus tailstock drill chuck and maybe live centre. I was going to make the shelves from 3mm alloy plate but a poor stiffening fold on the first attempt caused a rethink. For the moment it takes the weight of the drawtube and provides a home for the chuck locking key:
View attachment 290056
View attachment 290059
The odd-looking alloy blocks at the ends of the shelf uprights are there because whoever drilled the door holes failed to get any two of them square to each other or any edge of the door, so the blocks are drilled off-centre to allow the uprights to be parallel!
Looks nice
mtt.tr
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That 3Dprinting is stronger than I have it credit for.
Looks nice
I made a prototype climbing device and abseild from it.
James1979
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There are people I know in the tree world who should never find that out!! The sort of people that weld up their own maillons and lowering devices....
I can imagine the carnage if they started 3D printing!!
I do not put you in that category
My Old Landy
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Wow, I must admit you wouldn't have (survived) with anything I printed. I gave my printer to my SIL because I couldn't get it to adhere to the bed let alone anything else!!!
mtt.tr
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Hope not, though i have built rigging winches, fortunately i built a load tester and pull tested it before i used it.
I've had my components laser cut for the climbing device i just need to machine the final parts.
mtt.tr
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My Old Landy
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I leave the technology to you younger folk and abseiling for that matter
Agroshield
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Glue some shim stock (feeler gauge) onto the narrower ones to make everything the same.
Easier to remove some material from the wider ones now I have a cutter
My Old Landy
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I have found my set are quite 'tough' hence thinking I may need to harden the ones I have made.
Hood
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Some of the tool holders I made years ago were for a toolpost I had on the Student lathe, it was slightly bigger than the one I have on the Triumph. When I sold the Student I kept some of the holders but they were slack on the Triumph so I fixed a bit of shim stainless to the wedge side with an m3 screw underneath, works great and allows me to use them without having to insert a shim every time.
