The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,332
- Location
- Going Away.
Change of underwear needed as well?
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
![IMG_20210205_155920891[1].jpg](https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/data/attachments/269/269457-a4e00597c1967748c76f7f839e87d0b3.jpg?hash=pOAFl8GWd0 "IMG_20210205_155920891[1].jpg")
Memmeddu
Member
- Messages
- 5,540
- Location
- Italia Sardegna
Nope I've cold blood in those situations .
Scare comes later when adrenaline goes in standby
Two words to describe what happened ....
Tokyo drift
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,472
- Location
- New Zealand
The pot arrived back from blasting.
A sign made and it rubs the lotion on its skin
It nows looks more like concrete
A sign made and it rubs the lotion on its skin
It nows looks more like concrete
Kram
Member
- Messages
- 8,064
- Location
- Sussex
It wasnt supposed to part there! Not found brass to be brittle before. It had a bit of runout from moving hex in collet, wall was 1.2mm where it snapped. Also cocked up the length. 28*2 is not 46
But they will be soldered to copper pipe so they didnt need to be longer than 14mm each.So now im doing something else..
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
It's strange but for years I've noticed that people who get close shaves whilst driving tend to do that .. it's best to keep both hands on the steering wheel though .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
@ Kram that's an interesting shear ,
Did you physically check that the parting tool was still set true to height and parallel to the chuck face before parting ? Did you lock the saddle to do the parting & cock the slide to take up any free play on the cross slide ? I ask because the break point looks like the parting blade has grabbed ? Re looking at the picture did the tool holder connect with the work piece just at the last moment with out you realizing it , It's something I've done before now.
Occasionally when doing a thin brass parting off I've bored the bar to well short of the cut off point , parted it , then popped the piece back on the chuck and bored the hole from the opposite end then turned the last cut
Did you physically check that the parting tool was still set true to height and parallel to the chuck face before parting ? Did you lock the saddle to do the parting & cock the slide to take up any free play on the cross slide ? I ask because the break point looks like the parting blade has grabbed ? Re looking at the picture did the tool holder connect with the work piece just at the last moment with out you realizing it , It's something I've done before now.
Occasionally when doing a thin brass parting off I've bored the bar to well short of the cut off point , parted it , then popped the piece back on the chuck and bored the hole from the opposite end then turned the last cut
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,332
- Location
- Going Away.
Still warm.
Smells like bacon butty soon.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,332
- Location
- Going Away.
Busy day here, mad day as well, plus a trip out.
Such is the joy of life.
The last few days I was lucky to aquire some bits.
Two Mitre Squares.
This one was looking good. But it had been cleaned what had removed the clear coat on the metal and damaged the finish on the stock.
The few spots of rust were treated with a drop of hot citric acid, then using a fiber glass cleaning tool scrubbed clean.
Then warm wax/oil was applied and buffed up.
This one had not bean cleaned, but something ahd been applied what was a bloody terrible stick mess.
Meths and a 0000 wire wool was used to clean up and remove the mess.
Then a nice bee's wax was applied.
Both finished, the darker shade one has some weight behind it. It has a name stamped into it. But it has been worn away so getting full details is difficult.
I also got two types of Jewellers "Meth's." fuelled torches.
This is an automatic version.
The LHS one is filled with meths, as it the RHS one.
The LHS cap is removed and a set alight.. When the flame burns blue, the RHS one is raised and the pipe placed into the flame.
In a few minutes a jet emerges from the pipe.
The pipe should have a nozzle fitted. I am hunting for a set.
This Brass one is a smaller version of one I owned before.
The cap is removed and filled with Meths, set alight. A tube is attached to the bottom and you blow and a hot jet is produced.
Both have been polished up and Machine wax applied.
The three wood and brass calipers and the brass one have been cleaned up.
The wood drank Linseed oil like @barking mat in a free bar.
After an hour they stopped and a shine was produced.
The brass one used needed a polish. That showed up the government stamp. Plus a number. It looks like it was designed to be used with munitions and is dated 1937.
The RHS one is RN Rope and cordage gage.
This slater's hammer has had a hard life. The shaft has been trimmed down at one point. The head shows the wear of a hard life/
This time I chose only to "tart it up" to a usable state. As any more would of destroyed the look.
The head was buffed up with a wire brush, the cheeks on the head had spread out a bit so they were dressed back and using a ball pein hammer the rivets tightened up.
The shaft was hit hard with medium wire wool and "Meths.".
Then with hot wax polished up.
It is a very tactile tool.
Such is the joy of life.
The last few days I was lucky to aquire some bits.
Two Mitre Squares.
This one was looking good. But it had been cleaned what had removed the clear coat on the metal and damaged the finish on the stock.
The few spots of rust were treated with a drop of hot citric acid, then using a fiber glass cleaning tool scrubbed clean.
Then warm wax/oil was applied and buffed up.
This one had not bean cleaned, but something ahd been applied what was a bloody terrible stick mess.
Meths and a 0000 wire wool was used to clean up and remove the mess.
Then a nice bee's wax was applied.
Both finished, the darker shade one has some weight behind it. It has a name stamped into it. But it has been worn away so getting full details is difficult.
I also got two types of Jewellers "Meth's." fuelled torches.
This is an automatic version.
The LHS one is filled with meths, as it the RHS one.
The LHS cap is removed and a set alight.. When the flame burns blue, the RHS one is raised and the pipe placed into the flame.
In a few minutes a jet emerges from the pipe.
The pipe should have a nozzle fitted. I am hunting for a set.
This Brass one is a smaller version of one I owned before.
The cap is removed and filled with Meths, set alight. A tube is attached to the bottom and you blow and a hot jet is produced.
Both have been polished up and Machine wax applied.
The three wood and brass calipers and the brass one have been cleaned up.
The wood drank Linseed oil like @barking mat in a free bar.
After an hour they stopped and a shine was produced.
The brass one used needed a polish. That showed up the government stamp. Plus a number. It looks like it was designed to be used with munitions and is dated 1937.
The RHS one is RN Rope and cordage gage.
This slater's hammer has had a hard life. The shaft has been trimmed down at one point. The head shows the wear of a hard life/
This time I chose only to "tart it up" to a usable state. As any more would of destroyed the look.
The head was buffed up with a wire brush, the cheeks on the head had spread out a bit so they were dressed back and using a ball pein hammer the rivets tightened up.
The shaft was hit hard with medium wire wool and "Meths.".
Then with hot wax polished up.
It is a very tactile tool.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,332
- Location
- Going Away.
But, I have sinned again.
Well twice.
Sin one.
I made money from a mad lady. The Feng shai lady of the past.
Sin two.
I up cycled, again.
The LHS plant sprayer was acquired ages ago, but it was a pup.
It passed water like........
A sieve.
Fix one leak, then another one appeared. Even making a new base it still leaked.
So it got thrown into a box to await the future.
Well, this morning she appeared and wanted a "Upcycled steam punk brass item" could I help.
She was willing to give me pictures of Lizzy 2.
So I said yes.
Pictures of Lizzy 2 = beer and curry.
Unlike the blow torches I have done recently, they can be returned to use. This one will not be.
But I did salvage all the usefull bits.
Well twice.
Sin one.
I made money from a mad lady. The Feng shai lady of the past.
Sin two.
I up cycled, again.
The LHS plant sprayer was acquired ages ago, but it was a pup.
It passed water like........
A sieve.
Fix one leak, then another one appeared. Even making a new base it still leaked.
So it got thrown into a box to await the future.
Well, this morning she appeared and wanted a "Upcycled steam punk brass item" could I help.
She was willing to give me pictures of Lizzy 2.
So I said yes.
Pictures of Lizzy 2 = beer and curry.
Unlike the blow torches I have done recently, they can be returned to use. This one will not be.
But I did salvage all the usefull bits.
arther dailey
Member
- Messages
- 6,907
- Location
- England
Fed up of detabbing round sections on bike frames...I got myself a cheapo silverline belt sander and picked up some old dynabrade fingers off the bay for peanuts....works a treat. Be handy for exhaust welds when I grind them back flush
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thats brilliant
zx9
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 5,201
- Location
- South East London
Nice chipping hammer.
decca
Member
- Messages
- 908
- Location
- Crawcrook, Gateshead.
I’ve got one of those Silverline power files, thought it would be pants but it’s one of the most useful tools I have. That looks like an excellent mod.Fed up of detabbing round sections on bike frames...I got myself a cheapo silverline belt sander and picked up some old dynabrade fingers off the bay for peanuts....works a treat. Be handy for exhaust welds when I grind them back flush
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